Installed Supercharger !! & Tips

[hzavarce]

Last night I finished the Supercharger installation. After the installation it started right away and fortunately I did not have any issues. It RUNS great ! and so far no issues. I am watching the Scangauge Temperature very closely, but it is raining this week and I have not had the usual Texas 100F.

The instructions could be much better so I thought about posting some tips so the work goes easier for the next guy.

1) DO read George’s installation. Great tips
2) Some hoses are not cut to length.
3) Use some lubricant for the big 3” hoses. These do not line up perfectly and I was struggling a lot. After I put some WD40 it went in like butter !, and you can do a much better job getting these installed.
4) Removing & Installing CrankShaft bolt: I read every possible thread about this topic. First of all, use the right tool for the job. Get a ¾ inch torque wrench. I know it is not easy to find. I was able to get my hands around a Snap On wrench, and this thing is HUGE, at least 4ft long. Removing the bolt by hand was no issue since the lever is big enough. Second issue with this task is holding the crankshaft. There are several methods, and I wind up doing the output shaft trick. It is VERY easy to do, and it takes 30 seconds to set up. Works perfect for removing and installing the bolt, and you do not have anything to get in the way of your work. After all this was the easiest part of the installation. See pic #1 below
5) F!$%!!ing !!!! TPS and IAC harness relocation: OK, by far this is the most tedious and painstaking task of the install. If I had to do it again I would cut and splice the cables (again, read Geroge’s !!!!). Not only you have to destroy all of the OEM work, which is very good, but you have to splice a couple of cables anyways. I undid the harness all the way to the firewall and there are two cables spliced to a big one that prevents the whole thing to stretch far enough. I had to splice these two. My hands look like **** and after I redid the wrapping I know it is not 25% as good as the OEM stuff. I think I made a mistake by undoing the OEM harness. I wish TRD had thrown a harness extension in the kit. I would not mind at all paying an extra $100 for it. This task took me at least 50% of the installation time. See pick #2
6) Last but not least. Get a serpentine belt tool. George had a good method, but I think my wrench was not long enough and it was getting jammed with the fan shroud. I came up with a different set up I was able to get the belt in, but the socket got jammed against the fan clutch when the tensioner reached its final position!!!!. I had to unbolt the clutch to get the socket out. I was just determined to get this done last night. Otherwise a quick trip to Sears and problem solved.

Good luck ! ! !

 

[Atticus]

Good job.

 

[Beowulf]

There are several methods, and I wind up doing the output shaft trick. It is VERY easy to do, and it takes 30 seconds to set up. Works perfect for removing and installing the bolt, and you do not have anything to get in the way of your work. After all this was the easiest part of the installation. See pic #1 below

Please elaborate.
-B-

 

[Grench]

Some links please?

1) DO read George’s installation. Great tips

4) Removing & Installing CrankShaft bolt: I read every possible thread about this topic. First of all, use the right tool for the job. Get a ¾ inch torque wrench. I know it is not easy to find. I was able to get my hands around a Snap On wrench, and this thing is HUGE, at least 4ft long. Removing the bolt by hand was no issue since the lever is big enough. Second issue with this task is holding the crankshaft. There are several methods, and I wind up doing the output shaft trick. It is VERY easy to do, and it takes 30 seconds to set up. Works perfect for removing and installing the bolt, and you do not have anything to get in the way of your work. After all this was the easiest part of the installation. See pic #1 below

6) Last but not least. Get a serpentine belt tool.

Thank you for the write up.

I wonder if the connectors are available to build your own extensions. Would Cruiserdan have the plugs? If not, which ones are needed and can they be pulled from a cruiser being parted out?

How about links to 1) and the output shaft trick in 4) and a picture of said tool from 6)?

 

[alia176]

Please elaborate.
-B-

I think he jammed up a tool against the flywheel through the Trans access hole down below??

 

[nicholas]

Thanks for the tips/writeup!

I think he jammed up a tool against the flywheel through the Trans access hole down below??

I thought I read somewhere that you could stick a socket (12mm IIRC) over one of the bolts that is on the flywheel which will then jam up against the edge of the trans access window. I looked nto this, but I was worried about possibly shearing off a bolt head, so I went with the starter bump and a 3/4" breaker bar. I'll probably use the method pictured above for the new crank bolt.

 

[Beowulf]

I think he jammed up a tool against the flywheel through the Trans access hole down below??

That's what it looks like; along with a scrap piece of aluminum or something. I was trying to figure out why this was a better approach than using a deep socket over one of the bolt heads. Lotsa ways to skin the cat though.

-B-

 

[hzavarce]

Lots of comments . I'll try to answer all the questions:

1) George’s Supercharger install: http://www.george4wd.taskled.com/scharger.html

4) I do not have all the links for the different methods. Do a search and you’ll find a lot of info. Some people use a chain wrench, another guy tied a chain to the chassis and then bolted it to one of the pulley holes, build the tool like George did, or use the starter motor method.

I ended up looking up the flywheel through the transmission access hole. I did not like the socket idea because I thought I could damage the bolt head. I just jammed a 6in extension bar using the flywheel hole against the transmission case. The little piece of metal is aluminum. I put that there to protect the flywheel. I wanted to prevent possible damage or scratching. Next time I’ll just use a brass bar . If the little piece of metal falls in you’ll be in a lot of trouble. Ask me why I know…

I take no credit for any of these methods. All of these were already done by others, so kudos to those guys. I made the tool like George’s, I had the breaker bar, and I also had the chain wrench. When I studied the easiest / best way to do it, the flywheel method is by far the best and easiest. No need for any special tools.

5) When I thought about calling CDAN for the connectors the damage was already done, and I thought there was no need to torture myself in case he does have the connectors. You will need a male and female, so if he does have one, he’ll have the females and not the males (this is my wild guess). The males OEM are on the sensors themselves.

6) I don’t have a picture of the tool because I don’t have one, and because of that I ran into some trouble. Serpentine belt tools can be found at hardware stores. Search in sears.com

 

[Kenso]

I agree with you completely about the wiring, that is easily the most annoying part of the install, and a simple extension harness would have been great. I was able to stretch the harness enough to reach the new location on my truck, but I had to annihilate the harness more or less. Congrats on getting it done.

 

[jfz80]

what guage wire did you use for the extensions? or type?

I replaced the dealership installed 6'' extension last summer due to some ignition issues. Its now back and i believe the same place to be the culprit. I used what i had at the time; but i dont want to go back in again too soon and definately plan to solder this time. THANKS

 

[nicholas]

Last night I finished the Supercharger installation. After the installation it started right away and fortunately I did not have any issues. It RUNS great ! and so far no issues. I am watching the Scangauge Temperature very closely, but it is raining this week and I have not had the usual Texas 100F.

The instructions could be much better so I thought about posting some tips so the work goes easier for the next guy.

1) DO read George’s installation. Great tips
2) Some hoses are not cut to length.
3) Use some lubricant for the big 3” hoses. These do not line up perfectly and I was struggling a lot. After I put some WD40 it went in like butter !, and you can do a much better job getting these installed.
4) Removing & Installing CrankShaft bolt: I read every possible thread about this topic. First of all, use the right tool for the job. Get a ¾ inch torque wrench. I know it is not easy to find. I was able to get my hands around a Snap On wrench, and this thing is HUGE, at least 4ft long. Removing the bolt by hand was no issue since the lever is big enough. Second issue with this task is holding the crankshaft. There are several methods, and I wind up doing the output shaft trick. It is VERY easy to do, and it takes 30 seconds to set up. Works perfect for removing and installing the bolt, and you do not have anything to get in the way of your work. After all this was the easiest part of the installation. See pic #1 below
5) F!$%!!ing !!!! TPS and IAC harness relocation: OK, by far this is the most tedious and painstaking task of the install. If I had to do it again I would cut and splice the cables (again, read Geroge’s !!!!). Not only you have to destroy all of the OEM work, which is very good, but you have to splice a couple of cables anyways. I undid the harness all the way to the firewall and there are two cables spliced to a big one that prevents the whole thing to stretch far enough. I had to splice these two. My hands look like **** and after I redid the wrapping I know it is not 25% as good as the OEM stuff. I think I made a mistake by undoing the OEM harness. I wish TRD had thrown a harness extension in the kit. I would not mind at all paying an extra $100 for it. This task took me at least 50% of the installation time. See pick #2
6) Last but not least. Get a serpentine belt tool. George had a good method, but I think my wrench was not long enough and it was getting jammed with the fan shroud. I came up with a different set up I was able to get the belt in, but the socket got jammed against the fan clutch when the tensioner reached its final position!!!!. I had to unbolt the clutch to get the socket out. I was just determined to get this done last night. Otherwise a quick trip to Sears and problem solved.

Good luck ! ! !

In the above picture, I quit hacking away at the factory loom at the first junction where the TPS/IAC is spliced into other wires so only about 3-4" of the factory loom was disturbed. I then used some 16Gauge wire and butt connectors (recommended by another mud member) and extended the 4 wire loom about 10" and the 6 wire loom about 11". Everything fits well and I have not had any problems so far. Soldering would be ideal, but I have talked to other people who haven't had any troubles with the butt connectors. The factory wire seems like 20 gauge wire, so 16 might be overkill. I maybe should have gone with 18.

I used a snap-on 15mm flare nut wrench with a larger box end wrench slipped over the other end to slip the sc belt on and it worked perfectly. Yes, an SC belt tool would be nice, but I didn't have a problem.

One of my biggest gripes was getting the fan and shroud back in there with such limited space while trying to not damage the radiator. I probably should have removed the DS battery tray to make it easier.

To get the crank pulley bolt off I used a 3/4" IIRC 1 1/4 " impact socket (slightly loose on the bolt head, but did not come near to stripping the bolt) and used the breaker bar/starter bump with the coil wire removed. To reinstall I used the same 1.25" socket (fit tighter on the trd bolt than a 32mm socket) and a fatty torque wrench set to 310Ft/lb (slightly higher to be safe) and 0.5"X8" brass drift in the fly wheel similar to the above pic.

I also drained and added 10000CST silicone to my blue hub FC. I decided to go ahead and use the ring fan (based on a recommendation of a very respected mud member) and see where my temps are at before I go chasing ghosts.

So far I can drive heavy on the skinny pedal with the AC on around town and on the freeway (only small grades) and my RavenTai mod temp gauge doesn't get above the horizontal (~190*) but that was only in 80-85* Iowa humid weather. So I have not noticed an increase in temps compared to NA. That may change with hotter weather, a steep mtn pass and loaded with gear and the fam, but I'll address those issues accordingly if they arise.

When I open the hood, the intake runner is definitely warm and I imagine that is causing a significant drain on power created by the blower. I can definitely see myself installing intercooler setup like BLarsen's in the future when funds permit.

Rick is sending me a LT MAF so I'll have to see what difference that will make to the throttle response.

Overall I would say that the S/C install is a or job. Definitely easier/cleaner than a birf job.

 

[hzavarce]

JFZ80,

I only had to splice two cables (yellow w/red) that where connected at the same place. They seamed to be something like 20-22 gauge, so I just used one 16 gauge to extend these two. I just used good crimp connectors with heat shrink insulation.

So far no problems.

Nicholas,

Good jod with the cables !!! man, I am still kicking myself for the carnage that I did. However, I was very meticulous putting it back together, and so far it looks like it is going to hold up for a good while.

I want to hear how the MAF work for you.

 

[cruiserdan]

That extension-jambed-into-the-flexplate-trick is bad-ass....

 

[nicholas]

JFZ80,

I only had to splice two cables (yellow w/red) that where connected at the same place. They seamed to be something like 20-22 gauge, so I just used one 16 gauge to extend these two. I just used good crimp connectors with heat shrink insulation.

So far no problems.

Nicholas,

Good jod with the cables !!! man, I am still kicking myself for the carnage that I did. However, I was very meticulous putting it back together, and so far it looks like it is going to hold up for a good while.

I want to hear how the MAF work for you.

I haven't heard of any problems with the crimps, so we should be good for a long time AFAIK. I made sure to tug on each connection to make sure everything was legit before I taped everything up.

It will be a little while before I can give some feedback on the LT MAF. I just received it today and I drive about 8 miles once a week if I am lucky, but I will post up my results as soon as I have them. I'd like to get a better feel for what it feels like just to have the S/C alone, then add the MAF and see what it is like.

That extension-jambed-into-the-flexplate-trick is bad-ass....

X2 The crank pulley seemed by far the most intimidating part of the whole install, but it actually ended up being the quickest and easiest part IMO. Thanks to everyone for posting their tips. You guys have saved my arse once again!

 

[nicholas]

I forgot to mention that I had talked to a half a dozen garages including Toyota of Des Moines about getting the crank pulley off/on (someone on here mentioned that they did this to save the hassle) and they all looked at me like I was crazy and that there was no way it needed 300+lb/ft-f and had absolutely no suggestions on how to do it or where to go to find the proper tools etc. You guys are awesome.

 

[OGBeno]

That extension-jambed-into-the-flexplate-trick is bad-ass....

Yeah, so it is bad ass. Personally, it leaves too much in the air with making sure you have everything positioned correctly.

I like a long bar against the frame. The frame ain't gonna fxxx up. The flexpate might....

The starter with bar against the frame is much easier for me to allow in terms of being sure nothing screws up...

But that is just my in me...I like chain wrenches....

-o-

 

[jfz80]

thanks for the feedback... got it respliced going from the main bundle over to relocated IAC and TPS. I havent got the chance to drive much. seems ok but now as i look at that pic i start to wonder if there is a splice over there by the injectors/fuel rail that i might need to look at as well. The few times it has missed w/ me under the hood there is an arcing that sounds like it is in that area Did you end up doing the extensions on the two bundles going to pass. side in your photo as well? or just pull it back far enough to reach ?

Congrats again on the install!! fun isnt it?

 

[nicholas]

thanks for the feedback... got it respliced going from the main bundle over to relocated IAC and TPS. I havent got the chance to drive much. seems ok but now as i look at that pic i start to wonder if there is a splice over there by the injectors/fuel rail that i might need to look at as well. The few times it has missed w/ me under the hood there is an arcing that sounds like it is in that area Did you end up doing the extensions on the two bundles going to pass. side in your photo as well? or just pull it back far enough to reach ?

Congrats again on the install!! fun isnt it?

FWIW,
For my install I just removed the first ~4" section of 3/4" plastic loom cover, which allowed the TPS/IAC to be free up to the junction where they were factory spliced into the main loom. Thus I did not cut anything off the main loom. I then cut the TPS/IAC one wire at a time about 3" back from the female connectors on the end and spliced in 10&11" wires in the gap. I wish I would have taken a picture.

 

[torfab]

When removing the crank pulley nut, I used an old flex plate, and notched it to fit the fan pulley, and it bolted right on to the crank pulley - no problem.

When I put it on, I filler the number 1 cylinder with oil on the compression stroke, and got plenty of pressure on there.

One question, my serpentine belt keeps slipping off the 3rd pulley. It seems like the belt tensioner is pushing it off somehow. Anybody have the same problem?

 

[josharre2000]

Nice write up.. I would be interested in what your "seat in the pants" gain was. Is there much blower whine?