- Thread starter
- #21
YOU THE MAN, MAN, I MEAN SEMLIN 
THANKS A BUNCH. you saved some hair on my head
THANKS A BUNCH. you saved some hair on my head 
super charged or not ? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter psj1945
- Start date
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Doc said:
- Thread starter
- #23
looks just like my cruiser ! thanks for the thumbs up on the SC
Doc said:
TRD would of raped the buyer for a lot more money+ the liability. The developer mentioned that it produced so much power that all 4 wheels would be doing burnouts, engine longevity was the main concern.
Doc said:
Too much power for a manufacturer-supported unit. Stuff like this needs to run the gauntlet through a huge legal department and often what comes out has no similarities to what went in
In addition, IIRC, there was an intercooler involved and the expense was way up there. They could not make the price-point or get the project "blessed" by retaining the I/C.EDIT:
Looks like I was a tad slow on the trigger there......
Once you have driven a turbo cruiser a s/c version is like driving with the handbrake on, and a hole in the fuel tank 
the shed guy said:Once you have driven a turbo cruiser a s/c version is like driving with the handbrake on, and a hole in the fuel tank
Seems a moot point since you selfish bastards quit making them, no?......
cruiserdan said:Seems a moot point since you selfish bastards quit making them, no?......
Well put Dan!
sleeoffroad
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cruiserdan said:Seems a moot point since you selfish bastards quit making them, no?......
No really, you can buy one from AVO and have it shipped in two weeks. Or you can piggyback on my order
Just need the $'s to do it
Kaderabek said:
So I wonder how many miles is too many? Say under 100K miles if the HG, rad and fan have been done?
Or are we talking about under 60K?
I installed mine with around 76k on the clock and am now at 126k. I still also have the original head gasket that seems to be holding. At this point my strategy is to monitor it closely for signs of failure. I may do a PM replacement next summer I haven't made up my mind yet. I did replace both my original fan clutch and radiator a little over a year ago.
If I were to do another I would likely do the head gasket on any 95-up regardless of mileage (unless it has already been done) and on a 93-94 with over 80k on the clock. I would also replace the radiator and the fan clutch. I would use the 93-94 radiator in all cases.
My opinons, of course..............
If I were to do another I would likely do the head gasket on any 95-up regardless of mileage (unless it has already been done) and on a 93-94 with over 80k on the clock. I would also replace the radiator and the fan clutch. I would use the 93-94 radiator in all cases.
My opinons, of course..............
cruiserdan said:I installed mine with around 76k on the clock and am now at 126k. I still also have the original head gasket that seems to be holding. If I were to do another I would likely do the head gasket on any 95-up regardless of mileage (unless it has already been done) and on a 93-94 with over 80k on the clock. I would also replace the radiator and the fan clutch. I would use the 93-94 radiator in all cases.
My opinons, of course..............
I can back this statement, have known people who have put heavy engine mods i.e. s/c or turbo on older engines and blown stuff up
. Over 100K IMHO one should consider a rebuild. 
I put my S/C on at about 90K (can't remember exactly now...). Am now at 119K.
If you're worried about the HG, then don't buy an 80 series. The S/C is likely to exacerbate an existing problem, uut it's not the cuase of the problem IMO. Most of the 80's that have had HG issues were not forced induction. If you buy an 80, the likelihood of you having to replace a HG is high if you keep it long.
But I think it's probably a good idea to do a compression test if the engine has high miles and you don't know how the truck was maintained. Last thing you need to do is add a S/C to an engine that has had infrequent oil changes--the bottom end may not survive. But if things check out...go for it if you like.
When my HG went, the dealer inspected the bottom end and told me it looked like new (I've run M1 since about 40K).
Adding an I/C or water/MeOH injection is a good way to increase performance, but I don't think it's necessary on LI (Dan lives in NM where it gets a tad hotter, so the cooling contributes significantly). But I do think it's not a bad idea to run the cooler plugs (MR2 plugs) and make sure the cooling system is in top condition.
Extra guages? It's not a bad idea to add an EGT guage, but it's not an absolute necessity. I did it for peace of mind, but unless you're hauling arse in the mountains where you're likely to get into trouble, it's not likely that on LI (which is flat...) you'll need one. A boost guage is bling IMO.
As for installation, my cost was only a couple hundred to have the dealer put the new pulley on. I didn't have the tools to do that, and I did't want to be responsible for that part, so I let them do it. The rest is pretty easy (1-2
); took me and son about 6 hours going slow. Bought mine on-line during the November sale for less than $3K; all totaled (with guage and dealer costs) installed was less then $3500.
If you're worried about the HG, then don't buy an 80 series. The S/C is likely to exacerbate an existing problem, uut it's not the cuase of the problem IMO. Most of the 80's that have had HG issues were not forced induction. If you buy an 80, the likelihood of you having to replace a HG is high if you keep it long.
But I think it's probably a good idea to do a compression test if the engine has high miles and you don't know how the truck was maintained. Last thing you need to do is add a S/C to an engine that has had infrequent oil changes--the bottom end may not survive. But if things check out...go for it if you like.
When my HG went, the dealer inspected the bottom end and told me it looked like new (I've run M1 since about 40K).
Adding an I/C or water/MeOH injection is a good way to increase performance, but I don't think it's necessary on LI (Dan lives in NM where it gets a tad hotter, so the cooling contributes significantly). But I do think it's not a bad idea to run the cooler plugs (MR2 plugs) and make sure the cooling system is in top condition.
Extra guages? It's not a bad idea to add an EGT guage, but it's not an absolute necessity. I did it for peace of mind, but unless you're hauling arse in the mountains where you're likely to get into trouble, it's not likely that on LI (which is flat...) you'll need one. A boost guage is bling IMO.
As for installation, my cost was only a couple hundred to have the dealer put the new pulley on. I didn't have the tools to do that, and I did't want to be responsible for that part, so I let them do it. The rest is pretty easy (1-2
); took me and son about 6 hours going slow. Bought mine on-line during the November sale for less than $3K; all totaled (with guage and dealer costs) installed was less then $3500.
cruiserdan said:Seems a moot point since you selfish bastards quit making them, no?......
Seems a moot point since Christo is importing them, no?......
- Thread starter
- #36
Thanks every one for all the great info , This really helps. How could I tell if my head gasket has been replaced ? I bought the truck with 150000 miles on it and I don't have any record off service. I have to say the truck looks in and out like it has been taken care of in a meticulus way (rich guy owned it). thanks again every one
, This really helps. How could I tell if my head gasket has been replaced ? I bought the truck with 150000 miles on it and I don't have any record off service. I have to say the truck looks in and out like it has been taken care of in a meticulus way (rich guy owned it). thanks again every one - Thread starter
- #37
Oh Christo, What do the turbo kits go for. I would imagine this to be something I couldn't install due to the more complicated design of a turbo ? All though I do recognize a turbo's supierior desogn/performance.
Scamper said:
I respectfully dis-agree on this point. A boost gauge can be a valuable tool in assessing preformance and in detecting potential problems. Say for example that you normally see 6 PSI at WOT and you notice that you are only seeing 4PSI. Certainly there is something amiss there, no? In addition, it is possible to determine the ammount of boost present when knocking, ETC, happens.
the shed guy said:Seems a moot point since Christo is importing them, no?......
Haven't seen one yet.....
So if you havent seen one, they dont exist, or you can smell Christo's pants burning is what your saying
