Suggestions On Best Brake Rotors For My Money (1 Viewer)

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ScubaSteve80

ScubaSteve80

Joined
May 21, 2019
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Location
Birmingham, AL
Hey guys I've been researching this for awhile and haven't found much, maybe I'm looking in the wrong places.

I want to replace my front break rotors while rebuilding my knuckles. Do you guys have any suggestions for what the best break rotors are for my money? Not really trying to break the bank. I also need ideas for pads.

So far I've seen a few people suggest Brembo 09.5914.10 Front Disc Brake Rotors and
Porterfield APD-90.R4S Front - R4S High Performance Street Brake Pads. Anyone have experience with these? They are in the ideal price range.

I should note that my LC is not my daily driver and am mostly looking for good pads for the trails and road. Not looking for top of the line, just something that works and will last.

Thanks for the help.
 
OEM? Mine have held up well and were my first and last ever order with the great cruiser dan. Forgot to mention I am using EBC pads though
 
Last edited:
I use Centric pads and rotors, purchased at RockAuto. They sell a kit (CENTRIC 90944079, rotors, pads, shims, hardware) for around $104, less 5% if you google a discount code, plus (cheap) shipping. Unlike others, I have no complaints about my brakes.
 
I use Powerstop rotors and pads from Summit Racing.
 
Red Merle said:
I have had the PowerStop rotors and pads on the front for about 20,000 miles and they have been great so far. I have heard some reports of them warping, but mine are still great.
Click to expand...

My first set of Powerstop FRONT pads and rotors went 57K miles before I needed to change them. I made the mistake of just throwing on a set of cheap-ass O'Reilly pads on the same rotors and now the rotors are starting to warp and the O'Reilly's pads absolutely SUCK for braking.

It's time I do pads and rotors on the front now to bring it back up to quality. I had to do the rears, as I had a caliper seize and smoke the pads on one side, so my rears went to 62K before I changed them.

I've had good luck with the Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors and pads. I was going to go back to OEM, but for twice the price, I don;t do enough offroading to warrant it at this time. I do lots of highway miles and mall-crawling. About 20K / year as a DD.
 
Thanks for the information guys. I really need rotors/pads that are going to hold up on the trails. I have seen many different opinions on drilled and slotted rotors. So far I don't think they are a good option for the trails. My current rotors are drilled and slotted. I did make the mistake of replacing pads with Auto Zone pads and I have uneven wear on them.

I have much more wear on the back than the front and it also shows on my pads. My breaks are squishy and if I slam on my breaks at higher speeds it takes about 2 seconds to come to a complete stop (not safe). I bled my breaks and wasted $115 to have the ABS bled. Shop said they think its my wheel bearings. I don't think that's correct. I've seen post on people not being able to get air out of the ABS. I've been needing to rebuild my knuckles and wheel bearings so I'm in the process of doing that now. I am leaning towards taking the ABS out but I want to give replacing the wheel bearings a shot before I go down that road.

Anyone had similar issues?


Rotor 1.jpg

rotor 2.jpg
 
Drilled/slotted rotors have no place on a heavy truck IMO. I'm running WBR coated rotors with Akebono (OEM) 80 series pads. 20K miles of DD with stop and go traffic and a couple wheeling trips and they feel great. Make sure your calipers and brake lines are in good shape. I plan to delete my ABS. The first time I went to stop on the trail and the ABS kicked in I pulled the fuse and never put it back. Don't miss it at all.
 
amgraham said:
Drilled/slotted rotors have no place on a heavy truck IMO. I'm running WBR coated rotors with Akebono (OEM) 80 series pads. 20K miles of DD with stop and go traffic and a couple wheeling trips and they feel great. Make sure your calipers and brake lines are in good shape. I plan to delete my ABS. The first time I went to stop on the trail and the ABS kicked in I pulled the fuse and never put it back. Don't miss it at all.
Click to expand...
Forgive me for being a novice but are you saying you can just pull the ABS fuse and fluid go straight to the pistons? I think I have air in my ABS and its causing my breaks to not act right. Would pulling the ABS fuse solve this issue if there is air in my ABS?
 
ScubaSteve205 said:
Forgive me for being a novice but are you saying you can just pull the ABS fuse and fluid go straight to the pistons? I think I have air in my ABS and its causing my breaks to not act right. Would pulling the ABS fuse solve this issue if there is air in my ABS?
Click to expand...
No. You still have air in the lines.

He's referring to actually removing the ABS completely, however, he has stopped the ABS function by removing the fuse.
 
ScubaSteve205 said:
Forgive me for being a novice but are you saying you can just pull the ABS fuse and fluid go straight to the pistons? I think I have air in my ABS and its causing my breaks to not act right. Would pulling the ABS fuse solve this issue if there is air in my ABS?
Click to expand...

No, air in the system is air in the system. Deleting the ABS pump will make it exponentially easier to get that air out. My system is bled properly but the ABS function was pretty dangerous offroad. All pulling the fuse does is disable the pump to keep it from running. That said, if you are not ready to delete then it sometimes helps to activate the ABS by trying to lock up the brakes in a gravel parking lot or something a few times and then bleed again. Sometimes it takes a couple cycles of doing that.

Like I said though, I have not missed the ABS at all even DDing with a few panic stops. I'm looking forward to deleting the system as I've heard it improves pedal feel quite a bit. There's a few threads here on how to do it without buying any new parts, just moving around a few lines.

BILT4ME said:
No. You still have air in the lines.

He's referring to actually removing the ABS completely, however, he has stopped the ABS function by removing the fuse.
Click to expand...

Correct. It's an easy thing to try to make sure you are OK without ABS before ripping the whole thing out.
 
Powerstops for about 20k miles. That's about 2 sets of pads as I pull a camper sometimes and use pads that wear quick (axxis ultimate, cheap and stop amazing, but dust and wear out quick). So far so good. Next time around I think I will not get cross-drilled rotors though, as I've collected some mud and gravel in the holes and had to clean them out once or twice.

As for that fubar rotor, looks like you need to replace your caliper to me. I can't think of any other reason you'd have exessive wear only on one side of the rotor.
 
Heckraiser said:
Powerstops for about 20k miles. That's about 2 sets of pads as I pull a camper sometimes and use pads that wear quick (axxis ultimate, cheap and stop amazing, but dust and wear out quick). So far so good. Next time around I think I will not get cross-drilled rotors though, as I've collected some mud and gravel in the holes and had to clean them out once or twice.

As for that fubar rotor, looks like you need to replace your caliper to me. I can't think of any other reason you'd have exessive wear only on one side of the rotor.
Click to expand...
I was worried it might be the caliper. This job just got a lot more expensive.
 
What's worse, you'll want to do the pair, not just the one caliper. Tried to cheap out a couple times before learning that lesson.
 
Meh, napa calipers generally carry a no-questions-asked warranty. Advance auto are cheap. They all seem to do about the same IME. Or if you have more time than money, you can get an OEM caliper rebuild kit and rebuild yours rather than buying new ones.
 
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