Suggested alignment specs for 35s, 2.5” lift? (1 Viewer)

[2000cruiser]

After upgrading to 35’s, feels like I need to get an alignment. Figure I’d start out with the basic Firestone adjustment hoping for a quick fix for now and I can move on from there if it doesn’t help much.

What toe alignment specs do you guys with 35”s normally run with or have found success with that feels nice and solid at higher speeds 60-75mph. I’d like to have something to compare to when Firestone shares a readout

Wheel and suspension:
94 FZJ
Common 2.5 OME set using the OME castor bushings and stabilizer originally calibrated for 295 70 17
1.25” spacers
17” Methods
315 70 17 Nitto Trail Grapplers

Thanks!

 

[Pin_Head]

The only thing that is readily adjustable is toe-in, which should be 1/8 inch.
If you have 3.75 inches of lift in front, chances are you have a problem with negative or zero caster (castor is what they make castor oil from). Zero caster makes for bad handling. The bushings only correct for about 2 inches of lift. It may be time for plates or some other caster solution.
Camber should be +1. If your camber is negative, you may have a bent axle.

 

[voodu3]

What @Pin_Head said above and you want to get everything as close to stock specs as possible.

 

[2000cruiser]

The only thing that is readily adjustable is toe-in, which should be 1/8 inch.
If you have 3.75 inches of lift in front, chances are you have a problem with negative or zero caster (castor is what they make castor oil from). Zero caster makes for bad handling. The bushings only correct for about 2 inches of lift. It may be time for plates or some other caster solution.
Camber should be +1. If your camber is negative, you may have a bent axle.

@Pin_Head Sorry I should have been more specific my 1.25" spacers are for the wheels. Which shouldn't affect alignment right?

Sounds good, I'll start off here. Thanks!

 

[SmokingRocks]

When running 35”+ I and many others have found that these rigs have better road manners with a touch more toe in. I set closer to 1/4” toe in.

 

[2000cruiser]

When running 35”+ I and many others have found that these rigs have better road manners with a touch more toe in. I set closer to 1/4” toe in.

Curious are you running past 0.1875? Thinking if splitting it

 

[SmokingRocks]

That’s what I’d shoot for. You just need to be diligent about rotating your tires every oil change. It’ll help reduce cupping loudness and even out the marginal extra wear associated with running a touch more toe

 

[2000cruiser]

Welp it looks like I was running with the toe @ -0.51* on the left and 0.46* when I arrived. Most we could adjust it was to +0.01 on the left and -0.02 on the right due to the tie rod not willing to move. They attempted to torch it a bit, heating element, pb blaster and it just wouldn’t move.

The heating element ended up melting my already super worn out end bushing!

Results actually feel like an improvement but I need to replace the drag and tie rod as well as all the ends soon so we can fully calibrate.

Problem is I have about a 1000 mile total trip I need to take with the family next week. Do you think it’ll be safe for me to drive with the end bushing melted off? Firestone said I’ll be ok since the tension is sideways- Would love to get your thoughts on this gents

 

[MoJ]

What’s your current caster reading?

 

[2000cruiser]

What’s your current caster reading?

Unfortunately it was not provided, all it says its 4* 2* Left and 2* 4* Right.

 

[MoJ]

Unfortunately it was not provided, all it says its 4* 2* Left and 2* 4* Right.

2 to 4 is the spec range. Don’t screw with anything else until you know your current caster.

 

[desmocruiser]

THIS above!

In my opinion, Caster is critical on an 80 series and no I wouldn’t go on a trip knowing I had a compromised bushings!

I am running Slee 4” springs, Slee Caster plate correction (with reasonably new Toyota bushings) adj panhard bars front and rear, Delta pan hard bar lift and 315 Toyo’s, with 1.5” wheel spacers.

Here is my most recent Alignment print out, the before reading was after 4 days in Moab and Central Utah.

 

[2000cruiser]

THIS above!

In my opinion, Caster is critical on an 80 series and no I wouldn’t go on a trip knowing I had a compromised bushings!

I am running Slee 4” springs, Slee Caster plate correction (with reasonably new Toyota bushings) adj panhard bars front and rear, Delta pan hard bar lift and 315 Toyo’s, with 1.5” wheel spacers.

Here is my most recent Alignment print out, the before reading was after 4 days in Moab and Central Utah.

View attachment 2682437

I’m currently using the adjusted caster bushings that came with my OME kit. But yes I will get a readout. Thinking of just going to my local Toyota ASAP to get new rods and ends- other than the adjustable panhards, are you running OEM steering setup in the front?

 

[desmocruiser]

I am running Slee adjustable Panhard bars front and rear along with their heavier tie rod and drag link Set up.

Are you experiencing something with the handling/ vehicle stability specific or just confirming yours is within spec?

 

[2000cruiser]

I am running Slee adjustable Panhard bars front and rear along with their heavier tie rod and drag link Set up.

Are you experiencing something with the handling/ vehicle stability specific or just confirming yours is within spec?

To be honest nothing is really crazy odd. The rig drives well, just looking for more stability staying straight at 60-70mph and not always cocked right on the steering wheel.

I’m finally ready to spend on my geometry, and wanted to start out with a basic alignment. Will be ordering the panhard lift bracket, adjustable panhards, delta castor fix arms, etc- looks like new rod, ends and link have been moved to the top of the priority list since Firestone guy decided to torch the rod and melt my bushing .

Terrible timing since I have to pack it people and camping gear next week for a trip. I’m thinking if risking it and addressing it once I get back so I can get the parts I really want. It seems to be pretty solid at the moment- I don’t plan to wheel. Mostly highway driving.

 

[ChaseTruck]

So, our '93 had the yellow bushings installed together with springs that by now gave real-world lift of 3/4". I recently changed front springs to give 2" of lift. The truck is easier to steer now, but drives fine on the freeway, including long downhill sweeper curves. Our LX with the same lift height in the from, but no caster correction, is a bit more squirrely, but it's not like one can't drive it.

The tie rod end(s) would be of higher concern to me. That's your steering. Who knows how that 'heat treatment' was applied; certainly nobody bothered to put a wet rag over the end itself when heating the threads. I'd get new ends, and perhaps a new tie rod if the old ends refuse to come out, even on the bench (ATF/acetone mix 1:1 as penetrant).

I use roughly the Tools R Us method to set toe:

Alignment Setting Toe

On the ’80, toe is the only thing easily adjustable. It can be knocked out from wheeling, impact, so should be occasionally checked. For something that looks deceptively simple, vehicle handling is a complicated subject, there are great books on the subject, this will be the simple version...

forum.ih8mud.com

I measure at 15" from center of the hub, and start with 1/8" toe in, drive it a bit and go from there; readjust if necessary. My experience is that MTs want a bit more toe in than AT tires, but your results may vary here.

 

[desmocruiser]

I agree with @ChaseTruck on the tie rod ends, those are replaced before I do anything else and certainly before I head out on a trip, replacing these and getting a good alignment base line puts you in the right direction for both current driving and your next round of geometry correction.

All wheel drive solid axle trucks are sometimes challenging to go down the road without a pull even with the Alignment in spec. If it still pulls after all is correct, there is a possibility of tire pull and that is an entirely different rabbit hole!

How many miles on your Nittos?

 

[2000cruiser]

I agree with @ChaseTruck on the tie rod ends, those are replaced before I do anything else and certainly before I head out on a trip, replacing these and getting a good alignment base line puts you in the right direction for both current driving and your next round of geometry correction.

All wheel drive solid axle trucks are sometimes challenging to go down the road without a pull even with the Alignment in spec. If it still pulls after all is correct, there is a possibility of tire pull and that is an entirely different rabbit hole!

How many miles on your Nittos?

Sounds good, thanks for the advice guys.

Nitto's have less than 300 miles on them!

Also I should stop calling it a bushing, I believe its a dust boot.

 

[desmocruiser]

Different but similar, I put Trail Grapplers on my 200 and had a noticeable pull/wander on road groves etc. for the first 1000 or so miles, they got much better!

Maybe after the ends are replaced, everything is confirmed tight, and you get the alignment and drive for some miles yours will improve some as well.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Just get a whole new tie rod with new ends. My buddy just got an OE unit made by 555 through worldpac for $100 and it has Japanese tie rod ends that are beefier than stock.

If you know any private mechanic see if they can look this up and order it for you. It’s much less of a headache than trying to unsieze ends that are ~20-30 years old.