Sudden no-run situation (1 Viewer)

[MickeyB]

I was a refinery plant operator - the final product is good leaving the plant is water-free but a bad tank at a gas station is very real still in 2021.

Ethanol is a hygroscopic binder (why an occasional fill of it is good even in marine applications where ideally you want no alcohol fuel as the routine, picks up any fixed tank condensate).

— But if you live where temps fluctuate decently or any number of external factors of filling station tanks means water/soil can be present, from old unlined steel tanks that rust/leak groundwater & dirt to a simple worn seal on the filler port the tankers use to deliver from their truck to station tanks & you get a good rainstorm.

The fuel you put in your tank goes through a minimum of 3 tanks before you squeeze the nozzle - sediment is easily passed along.

Shine a flashlight in any small plastic gascan - you’ll easily see some particulate matter.

So I 100% disagree that “bad gas” is a thing of the past - to think otherwise is like thinking Taco Bell uses the exact same grade beef as Peter Luger’s steakhouse in NYC.

Problem solved, put a new tank of gas and your good to go. Let us know when that fixes your issue.

 

[LINUS]

Problem solved, put a new tank of gas and your good to go. Let us know when that fixes your issue.

Either you’re not interested in the reality of petro-chem crude oil to final product, or you missed the point I made.
If I was you, I’d just yank the fuel filter since it clearly serves no purpose.

How many miles? How old is the intake tube, fuel pump? Also have you have the head cover gasket leaking oil?

Head cover gasket? Wow.
I think I answered my own question.





@Seth_O - It’s possible that fuel filter caught enough sediment to be the issue since the intake tube passed your QC.
And if Joey does a relocation bracket, Murphy’s Law you’ll NEVER need swap filters again.


But if it’s Wit’s End - It’ll sure look pimp no matter any future filter swaps

 

[Seth_O]

And if Joey does a relocation bracket, Murphy’s Law you’ll NEVER need swap filters again.


But if it’s Wit’s End - It’ll sure look pimp no matter any future filter swaps

Amen to that. And it'll probably do 13 other things as well, including fluff my seats and steam my undercarriage

 

[MickeyB]

Either you’re not interested in the reality of petro-chem crude oil to final product, or you missed the point I made.
If I was you, I’d just yank the fuel filter since it clearly serves no purpose.


Head cover gasket? Wow.
I think I answered my own question.





@Seth_O - It’s possible that fuel filter caught enough sediment to be the issue since the intake tube passed your QC.
And if Joey does a relocation bracket, Murphy’s Law you’ll NEVER need swap filters again.


But if it’s Wit’s End - It’ll sure look pimp no matter any future filter swaps

@Seth_O - It’s possible that fuel filter caught enough sediment to be the issue since the intake tube passed your QC.
And if Joey does a relocation bracket, Murphy’s Law you’ll NEVER need swap filters again.


But if it’s Wit’s End - It’ll sure look pimp no matter any future filter swaps

I stand corrected change your fuel filter get new fuel and that will fix your issue.

 

[BILT4ME]

I DD my '93 and have never had any real issues with it. Today I started it up and backed out of my parking spot and it randomly died. Thats never happened before, but it fired right back up and got underway again. A few miles later the RPM's started fluctuating, small at first, then larger and larger until the RPM's petered out and it died again. It restarted no problem, but only went another 1/2 mile and died again. Again it restarted just fine, but then wouldn't move anymore. In gear, neutral or park it would idle for a few seconds then get real rough and die. If I hit the gas it just immediately dies.

Ive never seen anything like this. I thought maybe a bad fuel pump or filter, but it restarts every time no problem, so its getting fuel. I thought maybe a massive intake leak after the MAF, but nothing was immediately visible.

A pic of the walk of shame for folks that need to see it:

View attachment 2768604

Open to ideas? Strange to me how it happened so suddenly, and so catastrophically.

Some of the symptoms you describe point to the VAF/AFM on your truck.

The 93-94 versions are known that if someone removes the two screws and tugs on the wiring harness that they suddenly become junk.

There have been a few folks that have had their VAF/AFM unit just suddenly fail, similar in manner to yours.

Please go through the diagnostics for that to rule it out.

The other thing I would consider is that the ECU for the 93 had a possible bad unit that was part of the earliest versions. There is a different part number for the 94 that is a direct fit. Find the Part number of your ECU to see if it is the "bad" one or if it is the later model (less problems). This is just an idea, as "sudden" problems are frequently electrical in nature and not fuel or lubricant in nature unless you have an obvious mechanical failure.

 

[Seth_O]

Some of the symptoms you describe point to the VAF/AFM on your truck.

The 93-94 versions are known that if someone removes the two screws and tugs on the wiring harness that they suddenly become junk.

There have been a few folks that have had their VAF/AFM unit just suddenly fail, similar in manner to yours.

Please go through the diagnostics for that to rule it out.

The other thing I would consider is that the ECU for the 93 had a possible bad unit that was part of the earliest versions. There is a different part number for the 94 that is a direct fit. Find the Part number of your ECU to see if it is the "bad" one or if it is the later model (less problems). This is just an idea, as "sudden" problems are frequently electrical in nature and not fuel or lubricant in nature unless you have an obvious mechanical failure.

This right here is the kind of thing that keeps me awake at night.

I did the PCM PN check a few years ago, and recall that mine was not one of those. And I have read the horror-story threads about the VAF connector and been very careful to not mess with the screws.

However- i havent done a diagnostic on it, so I will as that is an easy one to then rule out. Thanks for chiming in.

 

[sogafarm]

Some of the symptoms you describe point to the VAF/AFM on your truck.

The 93-94 versions are known that if someone removes the two screws and tugs on the wiring harness that they suddenly become junk.

There have been a few folks that have had their VAF/AFM unit just suddenly fail, similar in manner to yours.

Please go through the diagnostics for that to rule it out.

The other thing I would consider is that the ECU for the 93 had a possible bad unit that was part of the earliest versions. There is a different part number for the 94 that is a direct fit. Find the Part number of your ECU to see if it is the "bad" one or if it is the later model (less problems). This is just an idea, as "sudden" problems are frequently electrical in nature and not fuel or lubricant in nature unless you have an obvious mechanical failure.

^^^^This should definately be checked. On another note, just in case, check that your battery terminal's are tight. I've got a long story to go along with this but will spare the gory details, just as a precaution check the terminals. Maybe the fusible link too. Good luck!

 

[effjay80]

I once had a partially torn EFI fuse that would sporadically make contact. It didn't blow but it wasn't completely intact either. EFI relay?

Hope you get figured out.

 

[LandLocked93]

After changing my fuel filter, I disagree with remarks that it's 'easy'. lol
I will agree tho that there has to be an easier way than what I did - stirred up me rheumatiz right proper.

 

[MickeyB]

Any new updates?

 

[Seth_O]

Any new updates?

I came home the other day to find it had been moved. Apparently my son was in a pinch, and not knowing it "wasn't running" jumped in it and it fired right up. He drove around town for the afternoon without any issues. I have since driven it around the property, also without any problems.

I suspect either a bad electrical connection at the fuel pump, or junk in the tank that got sucked up against the bottom of the pump and has since fallen off. I wont know which until I pull up the seats and carpet and take a look

 

[LINUS]

^^^ @Seth_O - w/o knowing history of rig, you might spend an afternoon shoving dielectric grease in all the engine connectors.

It as a byproduct gives you more looks at all the nooks/crannies of that motor to see if there’s any “hummmm, that ain’t right”-items.

Living here I can say having done that myself, totally dry or just doing 25-35mph & crossing 3-4” of standing water in roadway, my motor acts exactly the same & none of my locker lights flicker - nothing.

But I also do the same in the boat out of self-preservation.
Ain’t no AAA coming 10-15mi offshore & you smell ‘magic smoke’

 

[MickeyB]

^^^ @Seth_O - w/o knowing history of rig, you might spend an afternoon shoving dielectric grease in all the engine connectors.

It as a byproduct gives you more looks at all the nooks/crannies of that motor to see if there’s any “hummmm, that ain’t right”-items.

Living here I can say having done that myself, totally dry or just doing 25-35mph & crossing 3-4” of standing water in roadway, my motor acts exactly the same & none of my locker lights flicker - nothing.

But I also do the same in the boat out of self-preservation.
Ain’t no AAA coming 10-15mi offshore & you smell ‘magic smoke’

Make sure you read up on sticking di-electric grease in the connectors. Generally not a recommended. You could spray them all with electrical cleaner and that should help.

 

[LINUS]

Make sure you read up on sticking di-electric grease in the connectors. Generally not a recommended. You could spray them all with electrical cleaner and that should help.

Why not stop NOW while somebody here may have a shred of respect for you?

I bet you’d b*tch about possible kidney stones if I suggested you take a multivitamin or drink milk


Or better yet - let’s go saltwater fishing together.

The ride out is free……

 

[MickeyB]

Why not stop NOW while somebody here may have a shred of respect for you?

I bet you’d b*tch about possible kidney stones if I suggested you take a multivitamin or drink milk


Or better yet - let’s go saltwater fishing together.

The ride out is free……

I’m not trying to bash people on here. I was gonna do the same on my rig and then did a quick google search about using dielectric and was surprised that’s a lot places said not to use it.

 

[clx16]

Not sure who is joking on this topic but just so there isn't a lack of clarity on the internet where there is a lot of disinformation... I've noticed that all of my plugs have dielectric grease in them even if it has gotten old. So Toyota put it there for a reason. It helps seal out water and dirt, as well it does help them come apart without bashing your knuckles on other things later on. So in my perception, many people have found it beneficial and I would be one to also recommend its use.

 

[jonheld]

I’m not trying to bash people on here. I was gonna do the same on my rig and then did a quick google search about using dielectric and was surprised that’s a lot places said not to use it.

While certain grease additives can attack plastic housings, folks in the electronic industry have been using grease in connectors for the last 50 years or so to seal out contaminants.
Yes, in SOME cases in CERTAIN conditions using SPECIFIC materials it is not recommended. However, your Land Cruiser is not one of these. I've used a spray grease on every connector I pull apart for the last 30 years.

 

[LINUS]

I’m not trying to bash people on here. I was gonna do the same on my rig and then did a quick google search about using dielectric and was surprised that’s a lot places said not to use it.

There’s a certain book that has a verse “ Remove the log from your own eye, so you may see clear to remove the sliver from your brothers’ eye” - draw your own conclusion on that book.

I say that as I did a quick look at your current situation:

Crack in da head 🧐

Was doing some cleaning on the LC, upon further inspection found a small crack in the head . Crack is passenger side by cooling rail. Trying to figure out best course of action. I have read various things for jb weld or loctite. Another one said just weld it. This is the only spot I see...

forum.ih8mud.com

– I’d like to take you seriously, but off-brand JB Weld - my nephew would fix this, let alone coming to any of his uncles or his 5 ‘grand-dads’.

You just don’t have a ‘doer’ spirit - you clearly google & with enough of it, you can find the flat-earth crew.

I pity you & now am done crapping in @Seth_O ’s thread - if you want to continue we can mess up your thread I linked.

\done with you in Seth’s thread.

 

[gummycarbs]

was surprised that’s a lot places said not to use it.

Where? This is the first I've heard of it. I've been using Deoxit followed by silicone dielectric grease for 20 years.

 

[LandLocked93]

There are threads on MUD suggesting not to use it on O2 sensor connectors or MAF box connector for one (or two).
I cannot swear to following one of those two.
YMMV