Sudden multiple system malfunctions (Resolved) (1 Viewer)

[Scott Hinckley]

2017 LX570

Current Condition:
LDA Malfunction
Pre Collision System Malfunction
Check 4 wheel AHC System
Headlight System Malfunction
TPMS light (no pressure readings display)
Cooler box does not function (no light, no fan)
Heated seats do not function
Ventilated seats do not function
Rear climate controls in rear armrest do not function for any controls.
Heated steering wheel does not function
Headlight washers do not function
Windshield wipers do not run when using washer fluid
Cargo area inverter does not function

Prior condition: no faults

Resolution steps:
- unhook battery for 15 min ( no change)
- scan for codes (no codes)
- New battery (no change)
- cleaned all body sensors and cameras
- in cabin fuse testing

**all conditions were resolved with replacing a single blown 10 Amp fuse on the drivers side fuse box. Time will tell. I had a small spill in the chill box as well as a spill in the rear seat that may have caused a short.

Yesterday was quite hot and while sitting in the heat the sensor behind the rear view mirror fell off and was hanging by the wires. Still no faults. (As far as I can tell the Safelite installed it incorrectly, it can’t fall off if the retaining clip is in and it’s hung on the bracket)

Today I was in the car running with AC on trying to reinstall the sensor. While trying to contort to install I accidentally bumped ACH into high and transfer case in 4 low. I corrected height, drove a bit in 4low, shifted to neutral and drove forward until I was back in high. Then I parked again and was able to reinstall the sensor. Moments later the mentioned faults started to display.

With the TPMS light on I went to check pressures and none display, I drove for 5-10 min and no pressures displayed. (Now TPMS light is intermitrntly blinking)

I confirmed I can manually turn on the headlights.

AHC does not function, “off” and high and low does nothing.

Battery tests at 12.7 volts resting (Many suggested a failing battery)

Did some basic searching and can’t find anything matching my condition with resolution

 

[TeCKis300]

When I see faults like this that are widespread and unassociated, first thing to check is the battery. Especially as you've been working on the car drawing down the battery. Noted that you drove the car here and it would presumably charge things back up, but perhaps it's deeply drawn and still not enough to get it back up to the right levels for things to function. It's very possible lights still come on and such, but as the vehicle is very electronics heavy, the voltage may still be sagging enough to cause issues.

Can you put a voltmeter on the battery to see where things are? Do you have a charger? May also be that the battery is on its way out.

 

[Scott Hinckley]

When I see faults like this that are widespread and unassociated, first thing to check is the battery. Especially as you've been working on the car drawing down the battery. Noted that you drove the car here and it would presumably charge things back up, but perhaps it's deeply drawn and still not enough to get it back up to the right levels for things to function. It's very possible lights still come on and such, but as the vehicle is very electronics heavy, the voltage may still be sagging enough to cause issues.

Can you put a voltmeter on the battery to see where things are? Do you have a charger? May also be that the battery is on its way out.

 

[Scott Hinckley]

I’m not at home but I did just have the battery tested at Orielly, 12.5 resting volts and passed a load test. That said is a Lexus labeled battery so it may be original with 117k on it. It also shows signs it’s overflowed from the cell caps. There was some corrosion also on the negative connection, cleaned up everything and, no change. I’m not to trusting of the equipment at orielly as I’ve had them pass a battery before that Interstate showed me was no good.

Also confirmed no codes being thrown from the ECU.

I’m reluctant to buy a new battery as a test, but I’m thinking it’s likely past its expectancy as is, I may just replace it. Couldn’t find any dates in the battery itself

 

[Scott Hinckley]

I’m not at home but I did just have the battery tested at Orielly, 12.5 testing volts and passed a load test. That said is a Lexus labeled battery so it may be original with 117k on it. It also shows signs it’s overflowed from the cell caps. The was some corrosion also on the negative connection, cleaned up everything and, no change. I’m not to trusting of the equipment at orielly as I’ve had them pass a battery before that Interstate showed me was no good.

Also confirmed no codes being thrown from the ECU.

I’m reluctant to buy a new battery as a test, but I’m thinking it’s likely past its expectancy as is, I may just replace it. Couldn’t find any dates in the battery itself

The only thing I forgot to mention was the alternator was putting out 13.6 volts, I’m accustomed to that being higher

When I see faults like this that are widespread and unassociated, first thing to check is the battery. Especially as you've been working on the car drawing down the battery. Noted that you drove the car here and it would presumably charge things back up, but perhaps it's deeply drawn and still not enough to get it back up to the right levels for things to function. It's very possible lights still come on and such, but as the vehicle is very electronics heavy, the voltage may still be sagging enough to cause issues.

Can you put a voltmeter on the battery to see where things are? Do you have a charger? May also be that the battery is on its way out.

I just had a 2nd test in the battery, 12.7 volts resting so I think that means it’s unlikely the battery

 

[TeCKis300]

The only thing I forgot to mention was the alternator was putting out 13.6 volts, I’m accustomed to that being higher

I just had a 2nd test in the battery, 12.7 volts resting so I think that means it’s unlikely the battery

Copy. Battery voltage sounds at the right level.

The faults could still be remnants of the battery previously running down. I think I would pull the battery terminal for 1 minute. Then re-start everything. The issue should clear. If they do come back, then it'd be worth further troubleshooting.

 

[LTSR]

when was the windshield replaced? if it’s recent with safelite I would lean towards that direction for blame. I recall when I was installing my aftermarket dash cam in that area I left something unplugged and went to start the vehicle (albeit it being a 2018 LC) i had similar errors throw on the gauge cluster. I revisited the area and saw a connector unplugged. after plugging it in and double checking everything was fine afterwards. Just my 2 cents. hopefully it will be helpful to you.

 

[Sandroad]

Unless you know for sure the battery has been replaced, I strongly suggest a new one. If the one you have is 7 years old in the heat of TX and is now blowing electrolyte out the caps, I’d consider it shot. Like many others, I don’t trust the parts store load tests and voltage is a very coarse measure of a battery. It could read good voltage, but not be able to handle the sag as mentioned by @TeCKis300 and therefore cause codes. Even If everything is clear after you disconnect it for a bit, I’d still get a new one ASAP.

 

[Scott Hinckley]

Unless you know for sure the battery has been replaced, I strongly suggest a new one. If the one you have is 7 years old in the heat of TX and is now blowing electrolyte out the caps, I’d consider it shot. Like many others, I don’t trust the parts store load tests and voltage is a very coarse measure of a battery. It could read good voltage, but not be able to handle the sag as mentioned by @TeCKis300 and therefore cause codes. Even If everything is clear after you disconnect it for a bit, I’d still get a new one ASAP.

Thanks for the feedback. I will likely end up with a new battery. I found another feature not working, the cooler box. This makes me think I should deep dive into fuses. And relays.

 

[Scott Hinckley]

when was the windshield replaced? if it’s recent with safelite I would lean towards that direction for blame. I recall when I was installing my aftermarket dash cam in that area I left something unplugged and went to start the vehicle (albeit it being a 2018 LC) i had similar errors throw on the gauge cluster. I revisited the area and saw a connector unplugged. after plugging it in and double checking everything was fine afterwards. Just my 2 cents. hopefully it will be helpful to you.

Thanks. It was about 6 months ago the windshield was replaced. I have a hard time believing the faults are just a coincidence being they started immediately after working on that sensor, but maybe that’s just a goose chase.

 

[Scott Hinckley]

When I see faults like this that are widespread and unassociated, first thing to check is the battery. Especially as you've been working on the car drawing down the battery. Noted that you drove the car here and it would presumably charge things back up, but perhaps it's deeply drawn and still not enough to get it back up to the right levels for things to function. It's very possible lights still come on and such, but as the vehicle is very electronics heavy, the voltage may still be sagging enough to cause issues.

Can you put a voltmeter on the battery to see where things are? Do you have a charger? May also be that the battery is on its way out.

I was really hoping you were right but although probably needed a new battery did not resolve.

 

[mappable]

I had dash board freakout early this summer on my 2016 LC after driving from Austin to Tucson.

Errors went away after taking the LC to a carwash and scrubbing bug guts and wings off the cameras and sensors on the frontend.

 

[Scott Hinckley]

I had dash board freakout early this summer on my 2016 LC after driving from Austin to Tucson.

Errors went away after taking the LC to a carwash and scrubbing bug guts and wings off the cameras and sensors on the frontend.

I officially miss my 100. Thanks I didn’t consider that maybe she just needs a wash.

I see the logic on the sensor driven system faults. All the other issues able features not working, like vented seats, probably not related, but ill give it a shot, thanks.

 

[Scott Hinckley]

I officially miss my 100. Thanks I didn’t consider that maybe she just needs a wash.

I see the logic on the sensor driven system faults. All the other issues able features not working, like vented seats, probably not related, but I’ll give it a shot, thanks.

Pressure washed all my sensors, no change, thanks again though.

 

[doru]

My observation after a few years here is that when someone complains of "Christmas tree lights" it is either the battery - that you already eliminated by installing a new one (it was an overdue item anyway), or the water intrusion. Given the windshield replacement that may be another thing to investigate. Search the forum for plenty of threads about the water intrusion and start by pulling the panels and check the water and corrosion on electrical connectors.
Here is a thread from yesterday: Water passenger side - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/water-passenger-side.1342724/

I do not believe that you working on the windshield rain sensor could afect so many unrelated systems (e.g. AHC, headlights washer) in your truck. It is just a coincidence.

 

[Scott Hinckley]

My observation after a few years here is that when someone complains of "Christmas tree lights" it is either the battery - that you already eliminated by installing a new one (it was an overdue item anyway), or the water intrusion. Given the windshield replacement that may be another thing to investigate. Search the forum for plenty of threads about the water intrusion and start by pulling the panels and check the water and corrosion on electrical connectors.
Here is a thread from yesterday: Water passenger side - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/water-passenger-side.1342724/

I do not believe that you working on the windshield rain sensor could afect so many unrelated systems (e.g. AHC, headlights washer) in your truck. It is just a coincidence.

Thanks, I’ll look into it. It’s been a month since the car has seen water at a car wash. I’ve had leaks in cars before and have seen no signs of moisture in this one. I’ll still read up, thanks.

 

[TeCKis300]

I was really hoping you were right but although probably needed a new battery did not resolve.

Interesting. Did replacing the battery not reset all the errors? It should have, unless you're saying the errors immediately manifested again?

If it didn't reset the system and you used some sort of charger while replacing the battery, pull the battery again terminals and let it reset.

If it reset and immediately manifested, then there are legitimate wiring issues or fuses blown. Water damage, rodent issues, and fubared wiring? Still very weird but stranger things have happened.

 

[Scott Hinckley]

Interesting. Did replacing the battery not reset all the errors? It should have, unless you're saying the errors immediately manifested again?

If it didn't reset the system and you used some sort of charger while replacing the battery, pull the battery again terminals and let it reset.

If it reset and immediately manifested, then there are legitimate wiring issues or fuses blown. Water damage, rodent issues, and fubared wiring? Still very weird but stranger things have happened.

How long does the battery need to be unhooked? I swapped the battery, would guess there was 1-2 min with no battery. I started the engine and all the same messages displayed with zero delay. I saw nothing that would indicate anything reset.

 

[TeCKis300]

How long does the battery need to be unhooked? I swapped the battery, would guess there was 1-2 min with no battery. I started the engine and all the same messages displayed with zero delay. I saw nothing that would indicate anything reset.

Not long. Usually a minute will do. Stepping on the brake should clear it quicker as it draws down any remaining power. I'm surprised the error messages immediately displayed.

Do you have an OBD-II tool? Might be worthwhile to scan the system so you can record what it thinks is wrong. Also use the tool to fully reset the car and see if the errors come back.

 

[Scott Hinckley]

SOLVED: I finally made time with a multimeter and began testing fuses and all issues were resolved after replacing a single 10amp fuse on the drivers side. It seems there are a few fuses for separate ECUs so if that eco fails all it’s supported functions do as well.

I think it’s a waiting game not knowing the root cause. I did correlate that a water spill in the chill box as well as a water spill on the back seat happened the same day. I never looked but assumed the chill box was sealed and it clearly is not, I’m suggesting I caused a short from there. I also had a laptop charger plugged into the inverter for several days which I had never done prior, potentially using all these features in conjunction, which I did, was too much. Otherwise I still need to investigate water intrusion as suggested prior and will see how it goes on the next wash. And either fuses are getting smaller or I officially need glasses.