Subwoofer questions: How to feed 12V+ from battery, is stock alt/battery OK? (1 Viewer)

[Pyrenees]

Basically I'm doing a dry run of my stereo build. I'm asking myself a lot of "how do I install xyz in the LX" questions and quietly searching for answers. Most of the time I find a good answer and you never see me here.

1) If I'm going to install a sub, for instance, something like this, Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-12
I would need to run a 12V+ lead through the firewall to the battery somehow, unless there is a dedicated 12V+ tap hidden in the back of the car somewhere that I'm unaware of. I have no idea what the best way is to get the 12V+ lead through the firewall and I'm trying to keep this install clean. Thoughts?

2) As far as I know, I have the stock alternator and battery type on my 2001 LX 470. I do not currently have other electrically-demanding mods planned, so do you think this would be adequate to run the sub without putting stress on my system?

3) Any need for a capacitor in a situation like this?

edit 1: I tested my battery cold at the terminals at 12.9V yesterday and then when the engine was running it was 14.1V at the terminals, so AFAIK my current system is working normally.

edit 2: I have the full 2001 LX Vol1/2 FSM and EWD books on the way, but not here until later this week.

 

[Peabody]

1. Definitely run the recommended 8 gauge wire from the battery, through the firewall, to the amplifier. There will be an inline fuse.

2. Factory equipment will be fine for this. No need to upgrade just for this.

3. No capacitor needed.

The reason most people pick a unit like that is because of it's simplicity. No need to upgrade anything else. Just wire it up and enjoy!

 

[FXJ 96]

I just installed a P300-10 this past weekend. I used one of those sub wiring install kits, but not really necessary - all you need is the 8 gauge power cable to battery, 8 gauge to ground (I grounded to a bolt on jack frame in rear panel), and some speaker wire.

Drilled hole in firewall (I found a little pre-punched round shape in the insulation, inside to left of steering column, Pushed that aside and drilled through there - careful as there are objects on other side in the engine bay. Ran cable through there and along the nice cable tray that sits under the pop off door sills. Took out factory sub and cut audio wires to sub to wire into the P300 inputs.

It works - but is very difficult to tune. Perhaps because its a powered amp downstream from the factory amp? I have the BT45-TOY for bluetooth streaming and tuned it using audio over bluetooth, got it sounding fine. But if I flip to radio it's waaaaay too much bass and even dialing factory head unit down to lowest bass setting it's thumping, especially during talk radio. Not sure what to do next.

 

[suprarx7nut]

1. Yes, you'll need to run new power. No existing power is sufficient.
2. I've been running a 300W sub, 600-800 front stage amp with no issues on stock equipment.
3. Caps are essentially the snake oil of car audio. You should never, ever need a cap. Forget they exist.

The factory amp bypass/integration is the most challenging part of the entire equation. As @FXJ 96 is experiencing the signal from the factory audio stuff is not very straightforward and likely to cause headache and at least 3 beers worth of frustration.

 

[FXJ 96]

1. Yes, you'll need to run new power. No existing power is sufficient.
2. I've been running a 300W sub, 600-800 front stage amp with no issues on stock equipment.
3. Caps are essentially the snake oil of car audio. You should never, ever need a cap. Forget they exist.

The factory amp bypass/integration is the most challenging part of the entire equation. As @FXJ 96 is experiencing the signal from the factory audio stuff is not very straightforward and likely to cause headache and at least 3 beers worth of frustration.

I can redneck tune it with factory equalizer but it’s frustrating if jumping between Bluetooth and radio. May just stream radio over Bluetooth rather than use acual radio. Clean antenna down look a bonus

Down the road may rip and replace factory amp

 

[Pyrenees]

Just to be clear, my current plan involves using the subwoofer pre-out on the aftermarket head unit and not try to integrate sub with the stock sub config at all. Thank you guys for the advice!

 

[FXJ 96]

Just to be clear, my current plan involves using the subwoofer pre-out on the aftermarket head unit and not try to integrate sub with the stock sub config at all. Thank you guys for the advice!

That’s what I did on my previous 80, and have on other vehicles as well. The factory head unit with nav and integrated hvac controls makes that a much harder, pretty much impossible for me, option. On the 1996 80 is was half an afternoon.

 

[Pyrenees]

That’s what I did on my previous 80, and have on other vehicles as well. The factory head unit with nav and integrated hvac controls makes that a much harder, pretty much impossible for me, option. On the 1996 80 is was half an afternoon.

I do plan to bypass everything and replace the speakers, but stage one is the headunit and backup cam, and sub preouts.

 

[Pyrenees]

I just installed a P300-10 this past weekend. I used one of those sub wiring install kits, but not really necessary - all you need is the 8 gauge power cable to battery, 8 gauge to ground (I grounded to a bolt on jack frame in rear panel), and some speaker wire.

Drilled hole in firewall (I found a little pre-punched round shape in the insulation, inside to left of steering column, Pushed that aside and drilled through there - careful as there are objects on other side in the engine bay. Ran cable through there and along the nice cable tray that sits under the pop off door sills. Took out factory sub and cut audio wires to sub to wire into the P300 inputs.

It works - but is very difficult to tune. Perhaps because its a powered amp downstream from the factory amp? I have the BT45-TOY for bluetooth streaming and tuned it using audio over bluetooth, got it sounding fine. But if I flip to radio it's waaaaay too much bass and even dialing factory head unit down to lowest bass setting it's thumping, especially during talk radio. Not sure what to do next.

Is there a place I could quickly strap it down and then disconnect to remove if needed? I usually run with the third row up on the walls and my big dog in the back, but I’d have to remove if if I actually wanted to use the third row in a pinch. I am sure I could figure it out but since you basically bought the sub I am heavily leaning toward, your thoughts are important.

 

[Pyrenees]

Anybody know what length of 12V power cable I'd need to run to the battery?

Same thing for the length of RCA cable I'd want to get, to run from the preouts to the amp.

Should I get some kind of special shielded RCA cable, or whatever random off the shelf one? I've always done line level inputs before so this is new to me.

Thanks!