But then Kevin's write-up only has +12V
sub tank overhead console wiring? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jditom
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I brought a chassis ground over from the main grounding point in the kickpanel. Kevin's diagram shows a gray gauge ground.
Also, my fuel gauge didn't just peg up, it was slow at first.
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I decided to wire it up like Kevin had it and routed wires through the roof down the Drivers A piller. The Gauge's both work but the lights don't. So here is what I did
Blue/Red = 12v+ gauge - Used +12V Ign that used for Georges ECU
Red/yellow = sending unit - Used the Fuel Tank gauge wire
Green/Blue = 12v+ light - Wired to pin1 (Green) of the Rheostat . Same as Tail Fuse
Black = reostat for the lights - Pin 3 (WG) of the Rheostat
Gray = chassis ground - Used a Chassis ground I found in the Moon roof connector. Ohmed it out
So possibly the bulbs where burnt out, I burned them out in wiring, or something else is going on. Don't think the ground I wired would cause an issue as I vali9dated it was Chassis.
To make sure the Gauge worked, I set the transfer pump while I took step #6 and watched it go down to empty.
Now I am modifying the visors, It's actually pretty easy and I will post up.
The Rhesotat back is actually easy to get to. That part of the dash will snap off on the side enough to get access to the back side where I spliced the two wires tyo the backside wires coming off the Rheostat connector
Blue/Red = 12v+ gauge - Used +12V Ign that used for Georges ECU
Red/yellow = sending unit - Used the Fuel Tank gauge wire
Green/Blue = 12v+ light - Wired to pin1 (Green) of the Rheostat . Same as Tail Fuse
Black = reostat for the lights - Pin 3 (WG) of the Rheostat
Gray = chassis ground - Used a Chassis ground I found in the Moon roof connector. Ohmed it out
So possibly the bulbs where burnt out, I burned them out in wiring, or something else is going on. Don't think the ground I wired would cause an issue as I vali9dated it was Chassis.
To make sure the Gauge worked, I set the transfer pump while I took step #6 and watched it go down to empty.
Now I am modifying the visors, It's actually pretty easy and I will post up.
The Rhesotat back is actually easy to get to. That part of the dash will snap off on the side enough to get access to the back side where I spliced the two wires tyo the backside wires coming off the Rheostat connector
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Thanks Jim, I figured out the -12V was the Rheostat pin 3. I monitored it with a voltmeter while I turned it.
That is how the OEM setup is, everything runs down to the kickpanel.
Post 'em up! That's what I need to do because we are having hell finding tan lighted short visors in Japan.
jditom,
Good job on the sunvisors, they're really look close to the original sunvisors that come with the overhead console. Very nice.
Good job on the sunvisors, they're really look close to the original sunvisors that come with the overhead console. Very nice.
Yup, all 4 bulbs where burnt out. Probably had it working last night less the Rheostat connection. If nothing else, it forced me to wire that up.
The bulbs were green to make it look like the dash gauges. I used the bulbs from all my switches which are clear.
I could button it up now with the clear bulbs, but I will wait to get some green ones tomorrow.
I love this site. I didn't even know you could do that.
And yes you can
Thanks for the tip
- Thread starter
- #32
- Thread starter
- #33
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
Everyone, I need to verify that this gauge pod illuminates as it should.
When I connect the red/yellow wire to a positive 9 volt battery and the blue to negative, the gauge will begin to rise. (This is good, cluster works)
My question is illumination
How can I test this to verify that backlights works ?
I thought if I connected black to the negative of my 9 volt battery and the green wire to positive, I could see it illuminate. (Ignore red arrow in photo below)
Can someone chime in?
When I connect the red/yellow wire to a positive 9 volt battery and the blue to negative, the gauge will begin to rise. (This is good, cluster works)
My question is illumination
How can I test this to verify that backlights works ?
I thought if I connected black to the negative of my 9 volt battery and the green wire to positive, I could see it illuminate. (Ignore red arrow in photo below)
Can someone chime in?
I think you have a bad bulb but for the heck of it try the grey ground wire and the green wire.
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
@wearsabrowncoat I tried that and none of the 4 bulbs lit up , anyone know where I may be able to get a temp bulb to test from my truck by chance ? Easy to get to
I have never dug into the overhead console bulbs. Not sure if they are like the main cluster or the ones used in the switches. The ones in the switches light up with a 9v just fine but you may need more voltage in the overhead bulbs so you might try directly to your battery.
