STUPID OME Bushing Question?? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 21, 2004
Threads
338
Messages
3,886
Location
San Diego
Website
youtube.com
Hey Guys

I am getting ready to have my OME caster bushings installed by a local machine shop (i will be bringing them the control arms off of the truck) and i am trying to mark them per the supplied instructions.

My question is this, per this picture below, is the horizontal line they are referring to using the rear bolt as the center axis and running a "Level" (using a bubble level) line to the front, or are they referring to a line between the center of the rear bolt and top of the bushing (regardless of its level relationship to the ground) as shown in the pic below.

I am kind of confused here, the housing seems to be in the way to get a real accurate measurement

What did you guys do?

omebushings.jpg


I know this is a stupid question and i am just misunderstanding the instructions i think. I just want to make sure i get it right!
 
I believe the horizontal line the diagram refers to is any line parallel to a line that passes through the axis of each axle.

The directions could not have hardly been written less clear.
 
Then what does it matter if its on the rig or not, seems much easier to pull the arms and do this off of the rig, the measurements wont change, would they?
 
Boston Mangler said:
I am kind of confused here, the housing seems to be in the way to get a real accurate measurement

You need to use a t-square or some other right angled straight edge and mark the arms just where the vertical dashed line is in the pic. It is tough because of the housing flanges, but you have to do it that way to create the point of reference.
 
The idea is to park on a level surface and draw a plumb line from the center of the front bolt down. You'll mark the control arm just outside the bushing. This is now where you align the rubber mark on the corrected bushing. For the rear bushing place it on the arm with the mark in the opposite direction. Now rotated the rear bushing so the mark moves away from the front until the distance of the 2 bolt holes is the same as that of the axle gussetts. Now I measured the possition of the marks on the 2 bushings in relation to the 3rd rear bushing and then transfered those measurements to the second arm to ensure as close a match as possible.

Hope this helps
 
Rich said:
I believe the horizontal line the diagram refers to is any line parallel to a line that passes through the axis of each axle.

The directions could not have hardly been written less clear.

Boston Mangler said:
Then what does it matter if its on the rig or not, seems much easier to pull the arms and do this off of the rig, the measurements wont change, would they?

The parallel line is in reference to front and rear axles. With the arm removed from the truck how would you be able to reference the axles, which are on the truck?

Jim and Rick are correct, if the cruiser is parked on a level surface (dry lake bed would work well!), then you could use a plumb bob. As long as you park on a flat surface, level or not, you can use a carpenter's square to make the front mark.
 
Rich said:
if the cruiser is parked on a level surface (dry lake bed would work well!), then you could use a plumb bob. As long as you park on a flat surface, level or not, you can use a carpenter's square to make the front mark.

This is what i originally thought, couldnt i just hang a plumb bob through the front bolt, if is on a level surface? I dont see why that horizontal line even comes into play, or is it just me worrying about someone non-important.

Am i right in assuming that the horizontal line at new ride height as depicted in the diagram above, is what the control arm "should" look like on a level surface?

Thanks, sorry for the confusion
 
It will look like what it will look like. It all depends on how much lift and what accessories you have on the truck, that would determine the ride height.

Get passed this horizontal thing and just install the bushings using a plumb line from the center of the front bolt when parked on level ground.

The idea is that as the ride height changes the plumb line will change in position on the leading arm. So this will cause you to rotate the bushing in a different place effecting the amount of correction you induce, the more rotation the more correction.
 
landtank said:
Get passed this horizontal thing and just install the bushings using a plumb line from the center of the front bolt when parked on level ground.

The idea is that as the ride height changes the plumb line will change in position on the leading arm. So this will cause you to rotate the bushing in a different place effecting the amount of correction you induce, the more rotation the more correction.

Thanks Rick, I am finally going to take care of this today!
 
Boston Mangler said:
Thanks Rick, I am finally going to take care of this today!

Rick said it best...don't worry with the horizontal line. Once you make the mark of the vertical line ( I used a liquid paper pen so it wouldn't come off) and get the arms up on the bench, you'll see how/why that mark is important to the orientation of the new bushings.

I assume this goes without saying but be sure you have the front diff secured so that it doesn't move around.
 
Make sure that whoever you take them to understands what they are, what they do and have a real machine press. The first time I had a set put in, the shop ruined them hammering them in instead of using a machine press. They wouldn't admit it and couldn't show me the machine press they told me they used. Learned another lesson on my part. I had to buy another set and find a real shop.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom