Stumbling / stalling after driving for 20-30 minutes (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 12, 2022
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Location
Alabama
I have a 1980 FJ40 that is keeping me on my toes with gremlins lately.

I have recently (4/20) replaced the electric fuel pump and filter after it just died and wouldn't pump any more. I bought the same cheapo looking "autobest" 42S that the PO had in there, and it seemed to do fine riding around locally on short trips to the grocery store and such. I have also replaced the Weber 3236 with a Weber 3838, and I was absolutely shocked at how much of an upgrade that has been.

Recently, on longer drives I've noticed that out of the blue the truck will start bucking and trying to stall and die like it's not getting enough fuel - usually this happens at the higher RPMs in 3rd gear or when I'm pushing it hard in 4th. This only happens after driving for a while, maybe 20-30 minutes into a trip. I can keep it from dying by pushing in the clutch and letting it slow down before putting it back in gear, usually the lower RPMs in 3rd. Then to get home I basically have to just barely accelerate and play with the clutch to get home.

The truck starts up immediately and there's no coaxing needed from the gas pedal or anything like that. Starts and idles like it was fresh off the assembly line. I'm no carb expert but it seems like everything on there is as it should be - I tightened the two idle air screws all the way in, just barely hand snug and then backed them both out 1.5 turns.

I've combed this forum and found a number of things that could be causing my issue, and I have a friend that has suggested I move my fuel pump as far back to the fuel tank as possible (better pusher than sucker is what I'm seeing a lot of). I had also wondered if it was overheating where it's situated (see attached pic) but it seems like there's plenty of open space and airflow where I have it located. It seems like it's going to be an enormous PITA to relocate it next to or near the tank....

I'm going to put on new plugs, wires, cap and rotor today, just because I have no idea when the PO did that last and I'd like to rule that out.

Also, the hose coming out of the fuel pump goes from a rubber fuel line to a hydro line, then back to a rubber hose before going to the carb. Is there anyway that could be causing thruput issues or is that some kind of hack job done to prevent vapor lock? I attached a picture so you can see what I'm referring to.

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I’m not sure of what I see…but do I see a total of 2 fuel filters?? Both clean??
 
I’m not sure of what I see…but do I see a total of 2 fuel filters?? Both clean??
I only know of one fuel filter, the cheapo jobby near the carb that I replaced last month. Is there one I don't know about that you see in the picture? I could get another angle if need be...
 
According to the info I see on that pump, it only puts out 2 to 3.5 psi. Other information I see on the Weber 38/38 works best at 4 psi. My guess is that short trips around town you fuel pump may be able to supply just enough fuel to let it run smoothly. However, on longer trips or at higher speeds it can't keep up so you get your observed problems.

I'd opt for a pump that puts out more psi and add a fuel pressure regulator set at 4 psi. If I'm right your problems regarding the stumbling will be a thing of the past.
 
According to the info I see on that pump, it only puts out 2 to 3.5 psi. Other information I see on the Weber 38/38 works best at 4 psi. My guess is that short trips around town you fuel pump may be able to supply just enough fuel to let it run smoothly. However, on longer trips or at higher speeds it can't keep up so you get your observed problems.

I'd opt for a pump that puts out more psi and add a fuel pressure regulator set at 4 psi. If I'm right your problems regarding the stumbling will be a thing of the past.
Awesome I'll try that! Do you have a suggestion on what pump to buy?
 
I only know of one fuel filter, the cheapo jobby near the carb that I replaced last month. Is there one I don't know about that you see in the picture? I could get another angle if need be...
Again, I’m not sure of what I see…but I think I see another filter, on the input side of your fuel pump.
 
Again, I’m not sure of what I see…but I think I see another filter, on the input side of your fuel pump.
Took another picture - if you're referring to the thing my index finger is on, it's some fitting that came with my fuel pump. I guess it could be some manner of filter, I'm pretty ignorant to all this still...

PXL_20230514_190321838.jpg


PXL_20230514_190321838.jpg
 
Took another picture - if you're referring to the thing my index finger is on, it's some fitting that came with my fuel pump. I guess it could be some manner of filter, I'm pretty ignorant to all this still...

View attachment 3322751

View attachment 3322752
Yes, that’s what I’m referring to. Might not be but to me it looks like a fuel filter…that may be dirty. Would be very easy to pull it off & see if you can blow thru it.
 
And while we are spending your money, I would dump that electric fuel pump for a OEM mechanical pump. And do not get a non OEM mechanical pump.

You are correct in the fact that electric pumps are much better ’pushers’ than ’suckers’. The one you have is in a very bad location.
 
And while we are spending your money, I would dump that electric fuel pump for a OEM mechanical pump. And do not get a non OEM mechanical pump.

You are correct in the fact that electric pumps are much better ’pushers’ than ’suckers’. The one you have is in a very bad location.
I don't mind spending money if it's going to make a big improvement. I do have the original mechanical one but no idea if it works.
 
For somewhere around $100 you can get an OEM fuel pump from @cruiseroutfit Well worth it.
 
I just stripped and repainted my air cleaner assembly because I would get paint flake build up in my carb which would create clogs, bringing my driving to a halt!
 
Mechanical pumps will typically last much longer than electric pumps, are less prone to heat failure & as designed my Toyota will keep the correct pressure.
 
And while we are spending your money, I would dump that electric fuel pump for a OEM mechanical pump. And do not get a non OEM mechanical pump.

You are correct in the fact that electric pumps are much better ’pushers’ than ’suckers’. The one you have is in a very bad location.
Where is a gold location for an electrical pump like that? I was told it should be below the level of the tank because it doesn’t like to be dry. I have a very similar one I’m running on my F. 1973. I run a Weber dgas which likes “no more than 2.5 to 3.5 psi” according to specs. I’m running a 1.5-4 psi electric pump. Would you consider a fuel pressure regulator? Thanks.
 

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