Stuck in Water for 1+ hr... (1 Viewer)

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You can use plastic zip ties to remove mud from the four drain slits found at the pinch weld located along the bottom of the rocker panels. Water from the front sunroof drains normally dumps into the rocker panels then out those drain slits. FWIW.
 
Wow. Bad situation!!! Nice looking rig man!
 
Okay, I didn't want to post it again, but I will. This is what happens if you wait too long. Go ahead, ask me how I know.

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And no, you don't need new bearings if the old ones are ok. And by ok I mean they look like they did when you put them in, not a pile of random round parts surrounded by rust, mud and dirt.
 
Sold it ;(. Moved to a vehicle that is comfortable in that much water...

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But I miss my cruiser....
 
Water will damage any of them-even boats. I'm betting that the only way the military does it with these is frequent maintenance and parts replacement-they have a big budget...
 
Water will damage any of them-even boats. I'm betting that the only way the military does it with these is frequent maintenance and parts replacement-they have a big budget...

As a former Army Maintenance dude, that is correct. There is a high water fording kit available for them, but that doesn't address the poorly sealed geared hubs (portals). In stock configuration fording depth is limited to 24". Also, the glow plug controller box is supposed to be waterproof but it is not. It has a metal mesh type gasket (I assume for EMP protection) that will let water in. 24VDC will do some interesting arc welding when it shorts out.

snorkle
exhaust (comes out to the side and up before rear wheel)
air cleaner extension elbow
CDR valve vent line
Hydro-boost vent line
sensor cup vent line
power steering vent line
oil pressure switch vent line
There are a few other items as well
 
As a former Army Maintenance dude, that is correct. There is a high water fording kit available for them, but that doesn't address the poorly sealed geared hubs (portals). In stock configuration fording depth is limited to 24". Also, the glow plug controller box is supposed to be waterproof but it is not. It has a metal mesh type gasket (I assume for EMP protection) that will let water in. 24VDC will do some interesting arc welding when it shorts out.

snorkle
exhaust (comes out to the side and up before rear wheel)
air cleaner extension elbow
CDR valve vent line
Hydro-boost vent line
sensor cup vent line
power steering vent line
oil pressure switch vent line
There are a few other items as well


Not disagreeing, but my owners manual says 30" for fording water, the gas versions are 24", if I recall correctly.
 
Fording depth has little to do with required maintenance after fording... The stock 80 series is nominally spec'd at 700mm, so about 27". Fording just means the vehicle can cross that depth of water as a factory spec - you still need to deal with water/mud ingress into moving/working parts...

cheers,
george.
 
If you are going that deep in an 80 series best have breathers installed....
 
If you are going that deep in an 80 series best have breathers installed....
That is STOCK in the oz manuals. The 80 has breathers/caps etc, not wonderful, but it has them to deal with 700mm. You still need to do maintenance afterwards. Once running gear is below water/mud level you would be nuts to assume that it isn't possible for some of that stuff to got into things it shouldn't have...

Again, fording is the ability to cross a certain depth of water 'safely', doesn't mean you can do it without appropriate maintenance afterwards unless you want to deal with expensive R&R later...

cheers,
george.
 
Don't forget the trunion's!
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During RAMD testing the Mercedes-Benz G-Wagon at the Aberdeen Proving Grounds, they wanted us to clean out the rear brake drum after each fording event. The mud got into everything. We eventually went to solid front rotors because of all the problems with dirt, mud, and even ice build-up. Yes, technically speaking water will eventually get into everything if sitting long enough. My u-joints are now finished after getting stuck in 3' of water last year for only 15-20 minutes.
 
So did you actually do any of the after fording maintenance before selling it?

Absolutely, I went through it about 10days after it happened. Drained the fluids, there was no contamination, so all of the fluids went back in.
 
During RAMD testing the Mercedes-Benz G-Wagon at the Aberdeen Proving Grounds, they wanted us to clean out the rear brake drum after each fording event. The mud got into everything. We eventually went to solid front rotors because of all the problems with dirt, mud, and even ice build-up. Yes, technically speaking water will eventually get into everything if sitting long enough. My u-joints are now finished after getting stuck in 3' of water last year for only 15-20 minutes.

G wagon had drum brakes?!? I would not have expected that, especially for the price!
 
That is STOCK in the oz manuals. The 80 has breathers/caps etc, not wonderful, but it has them to deal with 700mm. You still need to do maintenance afterwards. Once running gear is below water/mud level you would be nuts to assume that it isn't possible for some of that stuff to got into things it shouldn't have...

Again, fording is the ability to cross a certain depth of water 'safely', doesn't mean you can do it without appropriate maintenance afterwards unless you want to deal with expensive R&R later...

cheers,
george.


Seems like the Aussies always get cooler stuff than us!!
 

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