Stuck in Park?!?! (3 Viewers)

[BILT4ME]

For reference:
Testing for parasitic draining of the battery? - TDIClub Forums

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/TSB_27_08_04_Matrix.pdf

We don't have "sleep mode" on the 80's, but it gives you the gist of what to do. The hardest things I am seeing is to find a clamp style meter that can read mA draw for under $200. I will probably have to do what one of the posts in the blog states about disconnecting the terminal, then measuring the amp draw between without popping the fuse in my MM.

I can buy a clamp type meter for doing what I need, but it looks like they run about $400. That's more than I need to spend for even a twice in a lifetime requirement.

 

[george_tlc]

MA220: 400A AC/DC Clamp Meter | Extech Instruments resolves to 10mA which is plenty good for parastic draws that flatten a battery in a few days or less.

With a DC clamp meter to resolve small currents you need to:

a) Zero the clamp meter very close and same orientation that you will then clamp to the cable (to ensure stray magnetic fields are 'constant')
b) Place clamp over the wire and ensure clamp is well closed and same orientation as a)

That will let you get reasonable accurate readings.

MA220 is reasonable price for a workable low current DC clamp.

cheers,
george.

 

[OverlandDad]

Just like @Crab Sack said. Most likely an electrical issue. The brake lights and brake switch all need to work in order for the solenoid that will let the shifter out of park to work. If you check out the wiring diagram, you will see the circuit.

There are three fuses that provide power to the systems involved. Check the Cig, ECU-IG and Stop fuses before you tear apart the center console.

Then check that the lights work.

Then pull apart the console and grab a multimeter to troubleshoot...

View attachment 1415786

All fuses have been tested and are good. I replaced the tail lamps just in case one was blown. And I replaced the brake switch. The stoplamps don't light up when the brakes are applied.... And it still doesn't want to shift out of park.

I guess I'm going to inspect the shiftlock ECU. If it's damaged would it cause the stoplamps not to turn on too?

 

[ppc]

You need to fix the brake light first. That circuit feeds the shift-lock ECU. No brake lights no shifty.

 

[2fpower]

I have an extra ecu in the shop if you want to swap it out and try it.

 

[Maleficio]

You need to fix the brake light first. That circuit feeds the shift-lock ECU. No brake lights no shifty.

This is good to know. I'm gonna buy some replacement bulbs and stash them in the glove box. Thanks.

 

[george_tlc]

The brake switch is fed from +12V via a fuse (tail stop fuse) and then from a fusible link. The switch when 'open' (no brake pedal pressed) will have +12V on one side and GND (0V) on the other since the brake light bulbs will pull that side to 0V through the brake bulb resistance.

When you press the pedal the brake switch will have +12V on one side and now also +12V on the other side. That +12V is needed to a) light the brake light bulbs (the other GND side of the bulbs go to the vehicle body) and also by the ECU to know that you have got your foot on the brake and allow you to shift out of Park (when engine is running).

So, before you run around like a headless chook changing ECU's etc, first get that brake circuit working. The ECU can't stop the brake lights from working unless it is grounding that connection at which point the tail stop fuse would blow the moment you pressed on the brake pedal.

Solve ONE problem at a time.

cheers,
george.

 

[OverlandDad]

The brake switch is fed from +12V via a fuse (tail stop fuse) and then from a fusible link. The switch when 'open' (no brake pedal pressed) will have +12V on one side and GND (0V) on the other since the brake light bulbs will pull that side to 0V through the brake bulb resistance.

When you press the pedal the brake switch will have +12V on one side and now also +12V on the other side. That +12V is needed to a) light the brake light bulbs (the other GND side of the bulbs go to the vehicle body) and also by the ECU to know that you have got your foot on the brake and allow you to shift out of Park (when engine is running).

So, before you run around like a headless chook changing ECU's etc, first get that brake circuit working. The ECU can't stop the brake lights from working unless it is grounding that connection at which point the tail stop fuse would blow the moment you pressed on the brake pedal.

Solve ONE problem at a time.

cheers,
george.

I have power at the replaced switch and at the tail and stop fuses (both have been checked and checked to make sure there is power to the fuse box). The tail lights illuminate, but the stop lights do not light up when the brakes are applied. The tail light relay is fit securely. Is there a way that the relay is functioning for the tail lamps, but non-functioning for the stop lamps?

 

[zoojp]

Is the switch adjusted? It can come loose.

 

[george_tlc]

I have power at the replaced switch and at the tail and stop fuses (both have been checked and checked to make sure there is power to the fuse box). The tail lights illuminate, but the stop lights do not light up when the brakes are applied. The tail light relay is fit securely. Is there a way that the relay is functioning for the tail lamps, but non-functioning for the stop lamps?

So, you have +12V on one side of the brake switch and 0V on the other side (brake not pressed).

Then when brake pedal pressed you have +12V on both sides of the brake switch?

The brake lights feed direct from the brake switch (via harness etc), no relay...

cheers,
george.

 

[OverlandDad]

So, you have +12V on one side of the brake switch and 0V on the other side (brake not pressed).

Then when brake pedal pressed you have +12V on both sides of the brake switch?

The brake lights feed direct from the brake switch (via harness etc), no relay...

cheers,
george.

That is correct.

 

[george_tlc]

Then you need to trace from the brake switch (where you do have 12V) to the brake light bulbs to see where you lose the 12V.

Do you have 12V (when you press the brakes) at one of the brake light contacts? i.e. just a bad ground at the brake lights?

cheers,
george.

 

[OverlandDad]

Then you need to trace from the brake switch (where you do have 12V) to the brake light bulbs to see where you lose the 12V.

Do you have 12V (when you press the brakes) at one of the brake light contacts? i.e. just a bad ground at the brake lights?

cheers,
george.

@BILT4ME came over and solved it by disconnecting and reconnecting the 3 connections in the drivers kick panel. He said one of the pins was slightly green. Now that they're back together and ziptied tight. The brake lights are functioning again and there is no more shiftlock issue. I'm going to adjust the brake switch a little bit to help it activate a little sooner.

Thank you for everyone's help!

 

[2fpower]

nice job @BILT4ME -- Cruiser community points awarded.

 

[lazy]

This is good to know. I'm gonna buy some replacement bulbs and stash them in the glove box. Thanks.

You may know this, but the reason we were asking about the brake lights is it on the same circuit. The bulb(s), however, do not complete the shift lock thingy circuit.

 

[zoojp]

What three connections in the kick panel? Pics??

 

[Maleficio]

You may know this, but the reason we were asking about the brake lights is it on the same circuit. The bulb(s), however, do not complete the shift lock thingy circuit.

I need to download the service manuals so I can study. I've owned my first LC for 1.7 weeks now, and my first Toyota in 23 years. Last one was an 85 pickup. Sold it back in '94.

 

[lazy]