Stuck BP-51 adjustment rings

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kcjaz

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I just went to adjust my rear BP-51s to dial up compression a bit ahead of a weekend 5 person trip. The only time I have messed with this is when they were installed. Its been 3 years or so. I can't get the rings to move without rotating the entire shock. I don't have all my tools with me or I'd try a strap wrench in the shock body. My other hand isn't enough. Should it really be this tight/difficult to adjust? In the OME videos they don't even show using the other hand to hold the shock body.
 
I haven't had them for a few years, so my memory is fuzzy, but don't they have two "tunnels" where you can place a small bar/screwdriver through the shock to stabilize it?
 
I haven't had them for a few years, so my memory is fuzzy, but don't they have two "tunnels" where you can place a small bar/screwdriver through the shock to stabilize it?
I didn't notice that but maybe. I'll be down at my shop tonight where I can take a better look.
 
I just went to adjust my rear BP-51s to dial up compression a bit ahead of a weekend 5 person trip. The only time I have messed with this is when they were installed. Its been 3 years or so. I can't get the rings to move without rotating the entire shock. I don't have all my tools with me or I'd try a strap wrench in the shock body. My other hand isn't enough. Should it really be this tight/difficult to adjust? In the OME videos they don't even show using the other hand to hold the shock body.

I feel your pain…

Honestly, they couldn’t possibly make them any more of a pain to turn….

If you don’t have two of their wrences (to work against each other and avoid the spin…)…
—-Get a strap wrench…wrap the main shock body, and use it to resist the spinning.
 
I feel your pain…

Honestly, they couldn’t possibly make them any more of a pain to turn….

If you don’t have two of their wrences (to work against each other and avoid the spin…)…
—-Get a strap wrench…wrap the main shock body, and use it to resist the spinning.
I do have two wrenches but the wrenches don't grip the upper body. You would have to put one on the compression adjustment and the other on the rebound. Then you're moving both at the same time.
 
I think I had to hit mine with some penetrating lube once, too.

Reaching way back in my memories, I think I might have used some big channel locks (with something to protect the shock body) as well. My driver's side rear was always a little tricky, but once you got the right tools in play, it turned out to be not that stuck.
 
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I do have two wrenches but the wrenches don't grip the upper body. You would have to put one on the compression adjustment and the other on the rebound. Then you're moving both at the same time.
Eventually one will hit the end stop (minimum or maximum) and will allow increased torque on the other wrench. Then go back and adjust the first one to where you wanted it. Once you've "broken the seal" they tend to be easier to move.
 
Ram out to O’Reily’s and bought a small strap wrench. Did the trick. Putting it the gear box with the BP51 wrenches.
 
I didn't notice that but maybe. I'll be down at my shop tonight where I can take a better look.
arb_ome_bp_51_suspension_review_09.jpg


I think this image shows one of the "tunnels" in the black collar.
 
I do have two wrenches but the wrenches don't grip the upper body. You would have to put one on the compression adjustment and the other on the rebound. Then you're moving both at the same time.

Ya… I do recall that now. — I’ve been using the strap-wrench so long…that I think I forgot about that frustration. Meanwhile…the front shock doesn’t freely rotate…BUT its still a pain in fronts because you’re stuck with the coil-over obstruction… 🤷🏻‍♂️😁
 
I love how their YouTube video makes it look sooo easy to adjust... Yeah right.
 
Anyone have this issue?

After I got the kit back from ARB post-rebuild, at least two of the collars are *very* tight. I have in my tool kit a long, gripped t-handle hex key (see below) that I use to counter rotation at the rear. However, I have to use so much force that the ARB 'spoon' wrench gets distorted, loosing the geometry required to grip the shock adjuster. In the field this weekend, I had to bang the ARB wrench back into the right shape (right arc and some lateral torsion correction). This is a pain.

Has anyone found an alternative (read: stronger) version of the shock adjustment tool (ARB wrench)? Is it a matter of getting some P-Blaster into the ring area?

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