So I have been soaking the Diff Filler plug with PB Blaster for the better part of a week and today I went to loosen it up and the darn thing stripped out on me. Any ideas???? Buffalo and all the salt on the roads has really taken a toll on my vehicles the last couple of years.
Stripped Diff Filler Plug
- Thread starter tucsonlx
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housing or plug?
inkpot
SILVER Star
Howdy! Have you tried heat? Even with a propane torch, you get get it pretty hot, then let it cool down to see if it will loosen some of the crap in the threads. Worst case senario, drain the diff, pull the cover, and drill it out. John
Does that mean you got it out, and the threads are stripped? Or did you strip the bolt head?
I'm guessing you buggered up the head of the bolt what are you using to try to take it off? If not using the proper tool already, go and buy a 6 point box end wrench or socket. Don't use an open end wrench, or the friggin ones with 12+ teeth. A little BFH tap will get the new socket or wrench on the buggered bolt head.
If you mean the threads, just go to your local hardware store and get a 'tap' to tap new threads.
Also throw some anti-sieze on the threads when you're done...
- Thread starter
- #5
It is the head of the bolt. Unfortunately I am leaving tomarrow for about 6k miles worth of driving over the next couple of months and I don't want to try any heat right now in case I screw things up. Maybe I will just tackle this little problem when I get back into town. Now I am off to find a 6pt socket.
Not to get to elementry here but...
When you get that socket on there, (tap it on with a hammer, should go right on), if you can slide something over the handle of the socket wrench like a high-lift handle or a floor jack handle, or even a biggest box end wrench you have you'll probably have to use something that can give you an extra couple feet of leverage. Then make sure you are applying pressure to the socket with the other hand so it doesn't slip off.
Just did this myself for the first time in my 80 about two weeks ago, those badboys were on there...
When you get that socket on there, (tap it on with a hammer, should go right on), if you can slide something over the handle of the socket wrench like a high-lift handle or a floor jack handle, or even a biggest box end wrench you have you'll probably have to use something that can give you an extra couple feet of leverage. Then make sure you are applying pressure to the socket with the other hand so it doesn't slip off.
Just did this myself for the first time in my 80 about two weeks ago, those badboys were on there...
- Thread starter
- #7
Well, I got a 6pt and it still wouldn't budge so I took a torch to it. After about 30sec of heat I tried it again and it came right out. I should have just done that to begin with. After a quick drain and fill I am off to the parts store to get myself another fill plug before it welds itself in there again. Thanks for the help guys.
inkpot
SILVER Star
Howdy! Good to hear. I would try a little lube on the threads on the dif if you don't have a tap to chase the threads with. Also, even with a new plug, I would put about 2 or 3 wraps of teflon tape on it, or coat it in Never Sieze. John
inkpot
SILVER Star
Probably true, but with a chance of damaged/corroded threads in the diff cover, it may be more like "cheap insurance" than "overkill". A couple of drops of gear lube may be more than enough. John
I'm a fan of the propane torch. Heat has saved me a lot of time on stubborn bolts.
Same thing happened to me. A hammer and Cold Chisel took it right out
Diff Plug
So you have never looked at an 80 series diff then. There is no cover it is a welded part of the diff!!
Cheers
So you have never looked at an 80 series diff then. There is no cover it is a welded part of the diff!!
Cheers
Get new hex recessed drain& fill plugs,should come out easy next time.They are cheap $3 or so each.Mine were all rock rashed out(the metal ring protection) and a bitch to get off also(drain plugs).For me a 15/16th. 6-pt.socket fit the tightest on the stock plugs.Also using the breaker bar and an extra pipe or handle is the torque needed to get the old ones off.The stock ones suck!! Good time to do the T-case also,wile you have evrything out.I use the 5-gal buckets of gear oil from Autozone w/the pump.
Fluid changes going great till the rear diff fill plug stripped. Not the threads but the
sides of the bolt. A 24 mm slides off and won't grip. Don't have a torch. Has any one drilled out the fill plug or backed it out another way? The 80 is down with no fluid on the rear and no way to filler up...
Help!!
sides of the bolt. A 24 mm slides off and won't grip. Don't have a torch. Has any one drilled out the fill plug or backed it out another way? The 80 is down with no fluid on the rear and no way to filler up...
Help!!
Weld a bolt, old lug nut, etc... to the face of the drain plug.
Exactly why we always remind folks to loosen the fill plug BEFORE removing the drain plug.
I realize that's no consolation for you at this point, but at least others can learn from it.
Hang in there,
Curtis
Same advice as original poster got. Use a 6 point. Have someone hold VERY hard pressure onto the 6 point after you tap it on with a hammer (reverse the hammer and shove the handle against the 6 point works for hard pressure to keep it on the bolt while the other is cranking it loose). And then heat if no happiness.
DougM
DougM
scottm
SILVER Star
Whacking the plug with a hammer not only helps relieve frustration, it also can loosen the threads. Grind new flats in the plug if you have to, that'll also heat it up in the absence of a torch. A cold chisel or punch can be used to turn the plug, hitting it in a way that rotates it. Again, the hitting helps break the rust loose.
