stripped bolts on Tcase output flange (front DS)

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Well, this is a bummer, but with all the driveshaft BS i went through, taking the stock shaft off, putting it back on, taking it off again and then putting a DC shaft on, then taking it off and putting the OEM shaft back on and then . . . . .. . . my bolts on the output of the tcase mounting the drive shaft are buggered up pretty bad. One of them i can't even get the nut back on, one is 50/50 and the other two are marginal at best. Can i purchase these bolts? I don't have my FSM handy to look at, sorry. How tough is it to replace these bolts?

Thanks for any help.
 
Are you refering to the studs on the front output flange?
 
Clean up the threads with a rethreading die. You should be able to find one at a halfway decent hardware store and most any industrial supplier. This repair should be quite sufficient until you feel like replacing the studs. When you replace the studs, be sure to also replace the nuts, they are probably also knackered.
 
If it is the studs on the output flange, they are not serviced. Gotta buy a new output shaft to get them....:frown:
 
cruiserdan said:
If it is the studs on the output flange, they are not serviced. Gotta buy a new output shaft to get them....:frown:
Be careful with that rethreading die! And don't reuse the nuts.
 
They are studs because there isn't room for nuts behind the flange, the press in studs aren't serviced because there isn't room to remove them. The flange is part of the transfer case output shaft, probably not cheap and requires dropping the transfer, removing the front housing and pressing bearings. I would try rethreading the studs and replacing the nuts, then be more careful with them in the future!
 
Yikes. This is not what i needed to hear. I'll try to snap a pic tomorrow.
 
While toyota may not have a service, you may be alble to find the studs after market(look for you give up). then it would be a matter to drop the t-case and take the front housing apart and press in new studs. At the same time replace the seal and support bearings. You may also get away with rethreading it with a new tap(maybe the next size smaller if you can find a nut to fit). Yes useing the tap to fit the current bolt is a good interm fix if the threads are not real bad. later robbie
 
If you fix the threads, go light on the torque and use threadlocker.

Where's North Cadillac?
 
scottm said:
Where's North Cadillac?


Right above South Cackalacky.

:D








He lives in North Carolina.
 
Alex,
If you didn't have bad luck you'd have not luck at all, woow
 
Here are the devils i speak of. :mad:





However embarassing, i must admit, i have had the worst time i've ever experienced on a vehicle with cross threading bolts. I am guessing it's due to the tight thread pattern and the ability for the bolt to start even if it's not exactly correct in it's orientatiion.
bolts 004 (Small).jpg
bolts 005 (Small).jpg
bolts 006 (Small).jpg
 
I like to think of threading a nut as being like sex... If there is too much resistance you're probably doing something wrong.

It's something Sandy Beerfoot used to say. :grinpimp:
 
Can he not take apart the Tcase and press the studs out and press in new ones?

Aside from the fact that the best option is to replace the studs, if the nuts are actually threading on, do you think it is a viable option to use blue or even red locktite to help hold them there. The bolt integrity has not been compromised and their shear capacity is not diminished, no?


Cheers.
 
That's not near as bad as it could be. I would use a thread restoring die, not a thread cutting die, with lube, carefully start it and wind it on a couple of threads, backup to make sure it's in the right thread, then continue going a couple of turns forward, backup half a turn, clear the chips and relube, repeat until you clean up the whole stud.

A thread cutting die is sharp for cutting new threads, they will remove more metal, a restoring die is more dull and will remove less metal, they push the threads back into shape.
 
On fine thread fasteners, I hold the nut on the stud and turn it backwards, like your trying to start the nut, as it turns you can feel it ride up on the thread then click down, it will do it once at the same spot each revolution. When it clicks down that's the end of the nut thread riding over the end of the stud thread, start turning forward and it will be lined up. Easy to do, hard to type about!:D
 
LandyLover said:
Can he not take apart the Tcase and press the studs out and press in new ones?

Aside from the fact that the best option is to replace the studs, if the nuts are actually threading on, do you think it is a viable option to use blue or even red locktite to help hold them there. The bolt integrity has not been compromised and their shear capacity is not diminished, no?


Cheers.

If carefully restored that stud is not doing to loose much and with care has a long life ahead of it.:D After cleaning up the threads, I would get new factory nuts and install with lube, antiseize would work well.
 
IMHO those threads dont look THAT bad! Try chasing them with a chasing die (NOT the cutting kind).

I agree with the other Kevin.

If you dont feel comfortable doing it, try to find someone that is!
 
LandyLover said:
Can he not take apart the Tcase and press the studs out and press in new ones?


No. At least no if you plan to use OEM parts. The studs are not serviced.
 

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