Strapping a vehicle down. (1 Viewer)

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sogncab

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Apr 7, 2021
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I used to always strap a vehicle down where I was tying off to part of the vehicle that was suspended. Like the frame or a retrieval point.

I was told I was an idiot. It was explained slowly to me why I was an idiot. and I agreed. 🤣


I've been strapping my 40 down to the trailer by going over the third member with good results.
I'm going to be in a position where I will not be able to strap the 40 down to the trailer and get an angle on the straps that I like. I won't be able to go forward as much as I want, so the straps won't be as inline with the load as I think they need to safely be.

My questions is, what are people's experiences with the nets that go over the tires?
I'll be going ~2000 miles round trip. Minnesota to Colorado
The only thing I'm kinda concerned about is the track width versus the width of the trailer, and the radial load being put on the wheels being strapped down hard for that long/far. The 40 has a 56" track? and the straps will be on the outboard part of the trailer which I think is right at 8'6", maybe 8'4". So the straps would be pulling out and down 22" or 23" away from the tire.

or maybe this isn't a concern at all, and just strap it down with the nets?
 
Is it a U-haul trailer?, if not, post pictures.
 
Flatbed trailer my shop owns

Here's how I normally have it.

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And this giant box I'm calling a hillbilly camper will be in front, so I have to slide the cruiser back, which will be fine as far as weight placement goes, but I won't be able to run the straps forward much from the center of the vehicle. Without actually loading both yet, I'm thinking the cruiser will be about a foot behind the camper.

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This is about the angles I like to see on straps.

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You already strap your rig down 200x better than the average person towing. I would strap it so your comfortable with it and roll on.

I’ve never based my strapping decision on angles, more of common sense and thought.

I think naturally you will be fine by judging on your thought process already.

s*** halt the stuff I see on the road anymore doesn’t even have a strap or chain on it, much less a tight one correctly done.

Also strap hack- zip tie the strap tails. Roll the strap up neatly, zip tie it flat to the strap. Leave a little wiggle room for adjustment.
 
The challenge to many tire straps are having a good tie down location at the correct spot to offer the correct angle for them to be most effective.

On my trailer to get the 40 positioned for weight distribution, my front wheels lined up with a solid tie down location, but the rear wheels were between the fender wells of the trailer. I used wheel straps on the front and 2 axle straps crisscrossed (which is how I had tied everything down in the past) on the rear, in retrospect for a long tow I will use 2 crisscrossed axle straps in the front as well.

I am not a huge fan of strapping the tires, especially on solid axle trucks with 2 good axle housings to strap around, however I do see their benefit when hauling unibody and/or low cars where there is nothing solid to strap or difficult to access.

Good news is you are considering how to get it secure, something I am not 100% all people do!
 
You can just strap fore and aft off the rear axle then strap the front axle straight to the sides.

I usually put twice the straps on the rear as I do the front. You don't need much preventing the vehicle from going backwards.
 
That's a thought. Just let the rear axle freak with fore and aft movement. Then just tie down the front for lateral.
 
Also strap hack- zip tie the strap tails. Roll the strap up neatly, zip tie it flat to the strap. Leave a little wiggle room for adjustment.


I should post a video of dealing with the tail. An electrician buddy showed me a great solution years ago and I've used it since.
Done correctly it also adds some redundancy if the ratchet fails.
 
Looks fine.

Not sure what your straps are but if they are generic/Harbor Freight I would recommend picking up a set of these straps, I tow Cruisers all the time and I run the loops around the leaf spring/axle housing.

 
My concerns were unwarranted. Did a test last weekend and I've got room for the angles I wanted on the straps going forward around the third on the front axle.

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Any interior pics of the little cab over camper ? Thats a slick set up
 
I tow my 40 series buggy always . I prefer to use a chain in the rear as I feel if I have an emergency stop a chain is better than a strap as far as rating goes. I also prefer to use straps on the front but I cross them over in an x pattern as it helps with them coming loose if travelling down bumpy roads. Generally, I hook into the bump stops on the opposite side. I had a strap come off one time on a very bumpy road (my tires were aired down) and it bounced so that the strap came off on one side. I've crossed them ever since and haven't had an issue with the exception of that time.
 
I tow my 40 series buggy always . I prefer to use a chain in the rear as I feel if I have an emergency stop a chain is better than a strap as far as rating goes. I also prefer to use straps on the front but I cross them over in an x pattern as it helps with them coming loose if travelling down bumpy roads. Generally, I hook into the bump stops on the opposite side. I had a strap come off one time on a very bumpy road (my tires were aired down) and it bounced so that the strap came off on one side. I've crossed them ever since and haven't had an issue with the exception of that time.
I also tow always, I always air up before loading. I use only rated straps with closed ends ( even if they come lose they can't fall off ) I don't cross the straps as it can allow movement.
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I use Mac's custom Tie downs. Made in the USA and have a 10,000lbs break strength and 3,335lbs working load. Really good stuff !!
 
I also tow always, I always air up before loading. I use only rated straps with closed ends ( even if they come lose they can't fall off ) I don't cross the straps as it can allow movement.
View attachment 3398482
I use Mac's custom Tie downs. Made in the USA and have a 10,000lbs break strength and 3,335lbs working load. Really good stuff !!
Nice setup ! Looks like your ideas are better than mine. You must be proud.
 
Nice setup ! Looks like your ideas are better than mine. You must be proud.
Thanks for the kind words !
Not sure if there better just different.
For sure I'm really happy with the setup !

Things to consider
Most chains are made in china and are not rated.
I use fixed length straps with closed end hook on both sides in the front. This way I know that the rig is in the right spot every time and it's super fast ;)
And axle straps
Everything has a rating on it for peace of mind. Can't say enough about the quality of Mac's straps !
 
Chains, but the DOT grade 70 chain. It has the same breaking strength as the next size up regular chain, but doesn't weigh as much. Less to carry, less to store
 

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