I broke my front diff (2000 LC) at Cruise Moab on Gold Bar Rim trail. Many folks wonder how strong the 4 pinion diff is, well I have a video of what it takes to break it. Was thinking with my driving style it would last me a long time. Well I got a little too aggressive and was not paying close attention to what the vehicle was telling me. Pretty sure if I was driving and paying attention I would have gotten up this with no drama.
From the video it survives a number of bounces and a lot of stress before failing.
What failed was the ring gear, 7 teeth broken off. The spider gears are in great shape, have no play.
To get the rig out took the drive flanges off and taped plastic over opening to keep dirt out of wheel bearings. And removed front driveshaft. With center locker on drove it out in 2 wheel drive. The bolts holding driveshaft have loctite, and space is tight between u-joints so need a strong socket that will fit in there.
If you are driving where front end will slip and grab either from bouncing or conditions like patchy ice, make sure you have the tools to isolate front diff. Of course best to drive smarter when in these conditions, and avoid the drama.
Bottom line is I feel the 4 pinion front diff is pretty strong as I had a lot of tough off road miles on it.
LC has 166,000 miles on it, 45K of it mine. All my miles have been on 295/75R16, my first set Nittos, this second set BFG AT KO, so pretty good size tires for stock front diff.
Safari Ltd, Grand Junction did a great job installing Nitro Gears, an Airlocker and solid preload spacer. If you need a repair in Moab area they are the first ones I would call.
Thanks to Kurt Williams for getting me connected to parts and service people to make it happen quickly.
Thanks to Micah and Thomas for staying behind to make sure I made it out in 2wd.
Video
[Edit - Since there seems to be some questions about isolating front diff so adding this]
To remove drive flanges, don't have to take tire off. Pop hub cap, clean area well, (see 2nd photo below) then remove little axle cap, remove clip ring. Loosen 6 nuts and back them off so heads are flush with end of stud. Hit ends of studs with hammer on brass drift, go around all 6 a few times and cone washers will come loose. Once all cones washer are loose remove nuts and cones. Remove the drive flange. Keep left and right part in marked separate bags, the clip rings come in different thicknesses and are matched to flange and axle. Cover exposed area to keep dirt out. Remove driveshaft between t-case and front diff, center locker on, you are good to go.
Photo of Ring gear
From the video it survives a number of bounces and a lot of stress before failing.
What failed was the ring gear, 7 teeth broken off. The spider gears are in great shape, have no play.
To get the rig out took the drive flanges off and taped plastic over opening to keep dirt out of wheel bearings. And removed front driveshaft. With center locker on drove it out in 2 wheel drive. The bolts holding driveshaft have loctite, and space is tight between u-joints so need a strong socket that will fit in there.
If you are driving where front end will slip and grab either from bouncing or conditions like patchy ice, make sure you have the tools to isolate front diff. Of course best to drive smarter when in these conditions, and avoid the drama.
Bottom line is I feel the 4 pinion front diff is pretty strong as I had a lot of tough off road miles on it.
LC has 166,000 miles on it, 45K of it mine. All my miles have been on 295/75R16, my first set Nittos, this second set BFG AT KO, so pretty good size tires for stock front diff.
Safari Ltd, Grand Junction did a great job installing Nitro Gears, an Airlocker and solid preload spacer. If you need a repair in Moab area they are the first ones I would call.
Thanks to Kurt Williams for getting me connected to parts and service people to make it happen quickly.
Thanks to Micah and Thomas for staying behind to make sure I made it out in 2wd.
Video
[Edit - Since there seems to be some questions about isolating front diff so adding this]
To remove drive flanges, don't have to take tire off. Pop hub cap, clean area well, (see 2nd photo below) then remove little axle cap, remove clip ring. Loosen 6 nuts and back them off so heads are flush with end of stud. Hit ends of studs with hammer on brass drift, go around all 6 a few times and cone washers will come loose. Once all cones washer are loose remove nuts and cones. Remove the drive flange. Keep left and right part in marked separate bags, the clip rings come in different thicknesses and are matched to flange and axle. Cover exposed area to keep dirt out. Remove driveshaft between t-case and front diff, center locker on, you are good to go.
Photo of Ring gear
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