GO GATORS!!
Stlca chit-chat
- Thread starter RSHARPfzj80
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Troublemaker!
That’s the funniest post you’ve made in awhile!
@Hugh Heifer how did demo go on the concrete section?
I jave some dirt I need to move and some other tractor work. Then I need to do some measuring and finize my design. Next it will be fighting it out with codes people. Hopefully they building will be up by the middle of next year.
They have codes on that hill? And if so, I'm going to be very interested in how that goes..
The foundation inspection should be a breeze at least.
The foundation inspection should be a breeze at least.
I can build an agricultural building with no inspections but there is no listed definition so I need to check on that first.
That's what mine are. I think around here ag can have electric, but plumbing pushes it into a different catagory.
I'm not going to have plumbing (although it would be nice to have hise bib nearby)
Up to 125amp is ok in an ag building here and you are allowed up to 6000 sqft I think so size s no issue. The problem is more how my tracts are split. The building will not be on the same tract with the house.
Up to 125amp is ok in an ag building here and you are allowed up to 6000 sqft I think so size s no issue. The problem is more how my tracts are split. The building will not be on the same tract with the house.
Can you have it re-platted as a combined parcel so it's all on one?
Or is that the process you speak of?
Or is that the process you speak of?
It has been a dinner topic. It may be pretty complicated for the mortgage company and cost some bucks top have everything surveyed but I think possible.
Merry Christmas STLCA
looking for ideas ?
Anyone seen or know of a valve/vent rated for gasoline that vents vapor but will not vent liquid. I'm looking for a simplistic valve to put on the end of my fuel tank vent, I'm aware of roll-over valves and I have a couple, but they appear to require a major change of angle before they would shut off fuel flow (liquid). I )know at least one of the roll over valves I have is a simple metal ball in a tube type thing and if the angle changes enough on the valve itself (ie rollover) the metal ball rolls down the tube and shuts of liquid flow.
I don't want to have to go study up on the OEM solution with my engine as that may not be possible due to missing controls etc.
Am I dreaming or is there something out there? links / name / vendors ?
I"m going to run the roll-over valve for now, but looking for something better. I have no emssions on my engine (fuel vapor falls under emissions..no matter if coming from the tank or the engine). The hose I'm referring to is metal line that comes off the firewall on the FJ60 (which essentially vents the fuel tank), based on my understanding. Anyway at steep angles raw fuel (liquid) can come out of this vent...(danger dumb)...
As you might guess I'm not a fan of liquid gas coming back in the engine compartment via the vent hose, or going anywhere else (no intended)...its a great fire
hazard.
I have a hose on the metal line and the "vent" opening runs over to the inside of the driver fender (I've never liked this) or thought it was safe....I need to fix, for now I'll add a rollover valve but thats not going to stop the fuel flow (liquid) on steep angles in my estimation unless they get crazy...
I recall seeing some vents that allow vapor but not liquid, but the ones I saw or came across were designed to plumb into the fuel tank it self (which is great) but Im looking for something that is made or can be adapted to a hose type connection. I guess I could go crazy and pull the gas tank and do away with the vent hose and install a modern tank vent...but I'm not all motivated to do that...I guess if I go up in flames they can put that on my tombstone...."here lies an idiot who knew better but did the stupid anyway"
Anyone seen or know of a valve/vent rated for gasoline that vents vapor but will not vent liquid. I'm looking for a simplistic valve to put on the end of my fuel tank vent, I'm aware of roll-over valves and I have a couple, but they appear to require a major change of angle before they would shut off fuel flow (liquid). I )know at least one of the roll over valves I have is a simple metal ball in a tube type thing and if the angle changes enough on the valve itself (ie rollover) the metal ball rolls down the tube and shuts of liquid flow.
I don't want to have to go study up on the OEM solution with my engine as that may not be possible due to missing controls etc.
Am I dreaming or is there something out there? links / name / vendors ?
I"m going to run the roll-over valve for now, but looking for something better. I have no emssions on my engine (fuel vapor falls under emissions..no matter if coming from the tank or the engine). The hose I'm referring to is metal line that comes off the firewall on the FJ60 (which essentially vents the fuel tank), based on my understanding. Anyway at steep angles raw fuel (liquid) can come out of this vent...(danger dumb)...
As you might guess I'm not a fan of liquid gas coming back in the engine compartment via the vent hose, or going anywhere else (no intended)...its a great fire
hazard.
I have a hose on the metal line and the "vent" opening runs over to the inside of the driver fender (I've never liked this) or thought it was safe....I need to fix, for now I'll add a rollover valve but thats not going to stop the fuel flow (liquid) on steep angles in my estimation unless they get crazy...
I recall seeing some vents that allow vapor but not liquid, but the ones I saw or came across were designed to plumb into the fuel tank it self (which is great) but Im looking for something that is made or can be adapted to a hose type connection. I guess I could go crazy and pull the gas tank and do away with the vent hose and install a modern tank vent...but I'm not all motivated to do that...I guess if I go up in flames they can put that on my tombstone...."here lies an idiot who knew better but did the stupid anyway"
Last edited:
I dont know of anything that will fit your bill without some kind of mechanical advantage to keep the ball or check in place. And while that is an option, it would require vapor pressure to overcome the mechanical advantage.
Think about the ball value you mention, but with a small spring to keep the ball in place from the atmosphere side. When pressure builds up above a certain value, the pressure would overcome the spring and vent. Once pressure is released, it will repeat the ball until the next time. The trick here is having enough spring pressure to keep the ball seated, but not so much that the pressure in the tank becomes too great.
I'm sure there is something out there that fits that bill, but finding it might be a trick. Maybe check into what the bouncers use. They Bumble all over the place, I bet they have something like what your talking about. I'll nose around a little as well.
Think about the ball value you mention, but with a small spring to keep the ball in place from the atmosphere side. When pressure builds up above a certain value, the pressure would overcome the spring and vent. Once pressure is released, it will repeat the ball until the next time. The trick here is having enough spring pressure to keep the ball seated, but not so much that the pressure in the tank becomes too great.
I'm sure there is something out there that fits that bill, but finding it might be a trick. Maybe check into what the bouncers use. They Bumble all over the place, I bet they have something like what your talking about. I'll nose around a little as well.
I was likely on a decent that a 60 does not belong....but with a full tank of gas and the angle of the downward slope....it was the magic combination for a water fountain of fuel. Anyway this was a unique situation in a way, but even then its not safe. I think most of the manual roll-over valves I've seen use some type of free-floating ball in a tube type of concept and when the angle changes to whatever it takes to move the ball...the ball moves and shuts off the vent which equates to stopping the liquid flow of fuel out the vent. I don't really know how effective these are but better to have one that not. And the fuel is not pressurized in the tank, so I follow the simple mechanical nature of that. From my limited inspection the roll over valve is simply a ball bearing (small) that sits in a tub) when the angle of the tube changes the ball rolls to the end and thats the "stop function" that shuts the vent, presumably when you are upside down, which so far I've been fine with not experiencing.
Yeah the 60 is a tank and not a bouncer...etc.
I'm not going to cap the vent hose at the firewall, unless I setup some other type of vent to ensure the fuel tank does not get pressurized. While its been some time since the engine swap, I'm sure this vent hose went to the charcoal canister (or evap tank), I'm not sure what Toyota called it off hand... that use to exist there near the passenger side frame rail off to the side of the I-6. That of course left the building some time ago, when the engine got swapped. I've never studied teh emissions stuff to much but in old days it was mainly vacuum stuff on the fuel vapor and now they have electrical switch etc that control some of the venting. I need to look into it further.
I was hoping to find some simple mechanical valve that would vent vapor but not liquid , that may be a fantasy but it sounded good. If not, I'm going to figure something out that combines likely some of the stuff from my OEM engine (5.7 vortec) or other combination of canister and potentially a rolloer over value , but I assume that anything in teh vapor vent business has to have a vent at the end , such that pressure is not trapped.
I have zero problem capping the vent at the firewall, but I've not thought of a solution with that approach, or if that makes sense in ease of approach. I know I could cap the firewall vent tube, and then do something back at the gas tank ...but I'm not really thinking about doing that.
Off hand I don't know what normal is...as to should I expect liquid fuel flow at the vent, but "my own logic" say yes... I don't know form years ago the charcoal canisters would get filled with fuel, and where there is fuel vapor..then its clear that can be liquid too...pending angle of fuel tank/vehicle....where the vent is in relationship to the tank etc.
Just trying to get to "the safe zone"
I understand that on descent of steep slope for extended period, the fuel tank becomes the high point of the fuel system and there-in lies part of the problem. This was very steep...and I would not have done it....other than others made it through and so here I go...along with full tank of gas. I'm sure I'm not the first one to see this, and I see a lot of comments about charcoal canisters etc (replacing them or installing new)..etc. Which I need to read through. The end problem.....is a saftey issue with liquid fuel coming out the fuel tank vent hose, where the fuel tank holds gallons of gas...and certainly a clear fire hazard.
Yeah the 60 is a tank and not a bouncer...etc.
I'm not going to cap the vent hose at the firewall, unless I setup some other type of vent to ensure the fuel tank does not get pressurized. While its been some time since the engine swap, I'm sure this vent hose went to the charcoal canister (or evap tank), I'm not sure what Toyota called it off hand... that use to exist there near the passenger side frame rail off to the side of the I-6. That of course left the building some time ago, when the engine got swapped. I've never studied teh emissions stuff to much but in old days it was mainly vacuum stuff on the fuel vapor and now they have electrical switch etc that control some of the venting. I need to look into it further.
I was hoping to find some simple mechanical valve that would vent vapor but not liquid , that may be a fantasy but it sounded good. If not, I'm going to figure something out that combines likely some of the stuff from my OEM engine (5.7 vortec) or other combination of canister and potentially a rolloer over value , but I assume that anything in teh vapor vent business has to have a vent at the end , such that pressure is not trapped.
I have zero problem capping the vent at the firewall, but I've not thought of a solution with that approach, or if that makes sense in ease of approach. I know I could cap the firewall vent tube, and then do something back at the gas tank ...but I'm not really thinking about doing that.
Off hand I don't know what normal is...as to should I expect liquid fuel flow at the vent, but "my own logic" say yes... I don't know form years ago the charcoal canisters would get filled with fuel, and where there is fuel vapor..then its clear that can be liquid too...pending angle of fuel tank/vehicle....where the vent is in relationship to the tank etc.
Just trying to get to "the safe zone"
I understand that on descent of steep slope for extended period, the fuel tank becomes the high point of the fuel system and there-in lies part of the problem. This was very steep...and I would not have done it....other than others made it through and so here I go...along with full tank of gas. I'm sure I'm not the first one to see this, and I see a lot of comments about charcoal canisters etc (replacing them or installing new)..etc. Which I need to read through. The end problem.....is a saftey issue with liquid fuel coming out the fuel tank vent hose, where the fuel tank holds gallons of gas...and certainly a clear fire hazard.
Last edited:
as a follow-on to my own comments above. I think the best solution is to replicate the evap system (fuel tank vapor control / ie gas vapor) from what was original ly in the truck OEM. I'm not going to hunt around for the old 1986 Toyota evap stuff (I'm sure thats likley not worth it) but , I probably cant replicate that in some manner with GM items (that correspond to my engine ) or other items that may be available in the aftermarket.
I'm no expert, but my view at present time, is that a roll-over valve is not the solution....better than zero but not the solution. Yes I need a roll over valve, but I need more to assist in control of the potential liquid fuel. (my view). I'll have to study up on how the OEM toyota setup worked. I'm not looking at this from "emissions based" but it is part of that, and fuel vapor is a problem along with the potential for liquid to follow the path of the vapor vent.
Geuss we will see. When my truck was nose down and a stream of raw gas..was coming out where the hose vented...that got my attention...and where I may be wrong...does not appear to me that a rollover valve will stop that. I may do some experiements with that to see, and of course "it all depends on how much gas is in the tank and what is the angle of the down hill slope). I would like not to repeat the fuel fountain experience and if I ever do flip, I of course would like that the fuel stays in the system and I don't become a human torch fed by a 17 gallon fuel tank or however much fuel is there.
I have a friend in the body shop business and they have a bunch of wreckers...I may install the rollover over valve and then get them to pick up the rear of the truck and I can replicate about any angle doing that....and I'll see what happens...and if raw fuel comes out....I'll prove it or not.
I'm no expert, but my view at present time, is that a roll-over valve is not the solution....better than zero but not the solution. Yes I need a roll over valve, but I need more to assist in control of the potential liquid fuel. (my view). I'll have to study up on how the OEM toyota setup worked. I'm not looking at this from "emissions based" but it is part of that, and fuel vapor is a problem along with the potential for liquid to follow the path of the vapor vent.
Geuss we will see. When my truck was nose down and a stream of raw gas..was coming out where the hose vented...that got my attention...and where I may be wrong...does not appear to me that a rollover valve will stop that. I may do some experiements with that to see, and of course "it all depends on how much gas is in the tank and what is the angle of the down hill slope). I would like not to repeat the fuel fountain experience and if I ever do flip, I of course would like that the fuel stays in the system and I don't become a human torch fed by a 17 gallon fuel tank or however much fuel is there.
I have a friend in the body shop business and they have a bunch of wreckers...I may install the rollover over valve and then get them to pick up the rear of the truck and I can replicate about any angle doing that....and I'll see what happens...and if raw fuel comes out....I'll prove it or not.
well an ever changing story. I bought one of the old school round charcoal canisters (waiting for it to get here). I'm going to see about connecting that up first in line with the gas vent hose, then put a rollover valve on the vent line coming off the canister. Hopefully I can get something functional in the old school lane. I need to come up with one of the mounts or holders for the "coffe can" type older GM charcoal canister. Or I'll resort to redneck engineering. Off hand I don't if there is logic to having the charcoal cannister high or low in the engine compartment, I will install the roll-over vent at the highest point that is safe and away from engine heat. If for some reason I have no other choice I'll explore whatever the OEM setup was on my 1999 5.7 vortec but I dont' think off-hand my wiring harness supports that or the ECM is programmed for that (as I recall from memory) it has a electronic switch on it, and I have no other functional emission gear. Of course big difference between carb emission setup in 1986 and FI emissions setup on 1999 with FI. I'm just talking about the vapor control from the fuel tank.
basically I'm just trying to control proper venting of the gas tank and stop liquid fuel from coming back up the vent hose and spilling out the vent tube.
basically I'm just trying to control proper venting of the gas tank and stop liquid fuel from coming back up the vent hose and spilling out the vent tube.
Yes it is still up and running. You can pay club dues through the website also. www.stlca.org
