STLCA 60 Series Club Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Elbert
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- Thread starter
- #444
Thought I might post another wonderful question.
For those running a OME suspension lift or other type lift or suspension parts with "wet bolts" or greaseable pins in the shackles or leaf spring mounts. do you face the zerk fitting towards the outside of the vehicle (facing outwards) or do you place the zerk fitting facting towards the center of the vehicle. (both front and rear leaf springs).
I assume it makes sense to face the zerk fittings "outwards" for the obvious ease of access with a grease gun, is there something else to be aware of.... I follow that potentially more mud and "crap" can be thrown on the zerk (facing outward)....
having the zerk fittings facing inboard......would make greasing them rather a pain in the #$%%$$#...
thoughts ?
For those running a OME suspension lift or other type lift or suspension parts with "wet bolts" or greaseable pins in the shackles or leaf spring mounts. do you face the zerk fitting towards the outside of the vehicle (facing outwards) or do you place the zerk fitting facting towards the center of the vehicle. (both front and rear leaf springs).
I assume it makes sense to face the zerk fittings "outwards" for the obvious ease of access with a grease gun, is there something else to be aware of.... I follow that potentially more mud and "crap" can be thrown on the zerk (facing outward)....
having the zerk fittings facing inboard......would make greasing them rather a pain in the #$%%$$#...
thoughts ?
- Thread starter
- #445
One observation I have with the recent purchase of some replacement OME parts (shackles and wet pins etc)....
your gonna need one of these or something similar (link below). I believe lang makes this or similar kit for snap-on and of course snap-on charges more $$. You can get better purchase price other than from the lang web site , for example JB-Tools I think is one source. One version is like 40 pieces the other is 48.....get the 48 version as it has one of the thread tools for 14 *1.5 you may need. You might want to compare pictures before you jump on the snapon product.
I've had a smaller kit of these thread "chasers" for a long time..... or restorer and I had never used them much in the past....normally going over to the traditional tap and die, but I would have to say....this lang product is good and works well. I've used it more with this and a screw up I had on another unrelated bolt ....recenlty than I've had to...in a very long time but I'm just a hobby type guy on this mechanic stuff now. This of course is not a tool you use to cut threads with.
www.langtools.com
I had zero problems with the parts I bought a few years ago, the recent purchase is different in the thread department.
I've had to clean up threads on the ani-inversion bolts and the shackle brackets.
The threads in general don't feel smooth as to normal engagement with the nut or bolt.
I took the parts out of the box and hand assembled everything to ensure fewer issues when it came time to replace the part on the truck.....multiple issues with nuts running down on the anti-inversion pin (for some reason ...one end was good, but on every bolt one side was not good (nut would not thread on ). (this is across 4 shackle bracket assemblies), then on two of the shackle brackets the wet pins would not thread into the threaded portion of the bracket as they are supposed to do.
application of the thread "restorer" solved the problems...and I'm no tool and die-maker but I think QC could be better.
Where I got the random present or not......fairly aggravating.... of course on this stuff, you don't simply drive to "town" and get a replacement.
wet pins were not the problem, the problem was threads on the anti-inversion pins and threads on a couple of the shackle brackets. Hardware otherwise seemed ok, not sure if the hardware is of the same strength as from the past.....(nuts), I'm going to see what if I can tell about that.
your gonna need one of these or something similar (link below). I believe lang makes this or similar kit for snap-on and of course snap-on charges more $$. You can get better purchase price other than from the lang web site , for example JB-Tools I think is one source. One version is like 40 pieces the other is 48.....get the 48 version as it has one of the thread tools for 14 *1.5 you may need. You might want to compare pictures before you jump on the snapon product.
I've had a smaller kit of these thread "chasers" for a long time..... or restorer and I had never used them much in the past....normally going over to the traditional tap and die, but I would have to say....this lang product is good and works well. I've used it more with this and a screw up I had on another unrelated bolt ....recenlty than I've had to...in a very long time but I'm just a hobby type guy on this mechanic stuff now. This of course is not a tool you use to cut threads with.
SKU : 971 - 48 Pc. SAE and Metric Thread Restorer Kit
Manufacturing professional tools since 1932
www.langtools.com
I had zero problems with the parts I bought a few years ago, the recent purchase is different in the thread department.
I've had to clean up threads on the ani-inversion bolts and the shackle brackets.
The threads in general don't feel smooth as to normal engagement with the nut or bolt.
I took the parts out of the box and hand assembled everything to ensure fewer issues when it came time to replace the part on the truck.....multiple issues with nuts running down on the anti-inversion pin (for some reason ...one end was good, but on every bolt one side was not good (nut would not thread on ). (this is across 4 shackle bracket assemblies), then on two of the shackle brackets the wet pins would not thread into the threaded portion of the bracket as they are supposed to do.
application of the thread "restorer" solved the problems...and I'm no tool and die-maker but I think QC could be better.
Where I got the random present or not......fairly aggravating.... of course on this stuff, you don't simply drive to "town" and get a replacement.
wet pins were not the problem, the problem was threads on the anti-inversion pins and threads on a couple of the shackle brackets. Hardware otherwise seemed ok, not sure if the hardware is of the same strength as from the past.....(nuts), I'm going to see what if I can tell about that.
Interesting on the bad threads. That seems like poor QC.
As far as the directing of the bolts, I guess I figured you put them in the same as the OE ones came out. So if the head is outboard in OE configuration, the I'd run head out on the new bolts, which probably puts the zerks out as well.
As far as the directing of the bolts, I guess I figured you put them in the same as the OE ones came out. So if the head is outboard in OE configuration, the I'd run head out on the new bolts, which probably puts the zerks out as well.
- Thread starter
- #447
thought I might post another ? on work smarter if possible.
When dealing with bushing replacement or other reason to work on leaf springs etc. (this pin in the first picture) is being a pain in the @***, while not easy to see , that circular lip on the back side of that bracket that seats into the OEM bracket from the frame has become near mission impossible to get seated.
This is the driver side.
I took the rear portion of the leaf spring loose and replace the busshings there and put things back together but loose, then I started here on the front side. Getting this pin to align properly from this angle of view has been *#&#^. I have the other side tight (I've not started on that.).
(1) should I do the front side first and get it seated then do the rear side of the leaf spring?
or
(2) should I loosen up the passenger side bolts in the hope I get some more flex to allow me to seat this pin?
Seems no matter how I move the axle up or down or forward with a hoist..... I can't get the orientation right to set the pin.
hope what I'm saying makes sense....I'm going to post over in the MS chat section to .....to see what their thought might be.
I did not loosen the ubolts and don't plan to, these are the heavy springs and while it sounds a little stupid, getting enough flex here has become a challenge to get that pin to seat properly without screwing up the bushing etc. As noted...I just have one side of the rear leaf spring loose (dirver).
Appreciate feedback
When dealing with bushing replacement or other reason to work on leaf springs etc. (this pin in the first picture) is being a pain in the @***, while not easy to see , that circular lip on the back side of that bracket that seats into the OEM bracket from the frame has become near mission impossible to get seated.
This is the driver side.
I took the rear portion of the leaf spring loose and replace the busshings there and put things back together but loose, then I started here on the front side. Getting this pin to align properly from this angle of view has been *#&#^. I have the other side tight (I've not started on that.).
(1) should I do the front side first and get it seated then do the rear side of the leaf spring?
or
(2) should I loosen up the passenger side bolts in the hope I get some more flex to allow me to seat this pin?
Seems no matter how I move the axle up or down or forward with a hoist..... I can't get the orientation right to set the pin.
hope what I'm saying makes sense....I'm going to post over in the MS chat section to .....to see what their thought might be.
I did not loosen the ubolts and don't plan to, these are the heavy springs and while it sounds a little stupid, getting enough flex here has become a challenge to get that pin to seat properly without screwing up the bushing etc. As noted...I just have one side of the rear leaf spring loose (dirver).
Appreciate feedback
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Hey man I just installed a new suspension on my 60 a few months ago.
It’s a pain, but it’s just the angle to get that pin in correctly.
Call me if you need help!
Joel
615-512-3106
- Thread starter
- #449
ok,
When I installed all this new ...was no problem , but as noted this one pin is fighting me. at least for now...if I move forward...then angle gets off top and bottom or same if I try and move up or down the front to rear angle gets off. I'm sure its related to the angle of the leaf spring (in part). I have the heavy springs which might make things more painful .
Right now I'm thinking (1) maybe I should deal with this pin first and the rear pin second (2) need to loosen the stuff on the passenger side to get some more flex.
Yes you should do this end first and then do the shackle end second. After that is the Ubolts and tighten that to connect to the axle
- Thread starter
- #451
I'm just swapping bushings, so I've not touched the ubolts. Not replacing the spring packs / leaf springs. Just replacing the bushings and pins etc.
Well, in that case, there is so much pressure on the spring with it being connected below the axle, and to the shackle side, when you remove that pin, it probably shifted the position just enough to where it will be very difficult to manipulate that with everything else connected
- Thread starter
- #453
I agree in principle... if the ubolts come loose then more flex in the game.
but everything unbolted smooth .....I'm leaning on taking the rear pin all the way loose, seating the front pin and then dealing with the rear, which I think would be easier to get into position. given on the rear its just the size of the bolt/pin that has to align vs. the front which has that large round recessed part that has to align .
If I have to take other stuff loose then I will, but trying to avoid touching stuff I may not have to.
its crazy...but im just a few mm of that thing seating....but no matter what I do I can't get it to move those few mm and I don't want to screw up the bushing right off the bat.
aggrivating.
- Thread starter
- #455
Wow, that is a very ample supply of empty totes on the shelf ready for your dozen needs.
Next time you replace your spring bushings ... Look around for an opportunity to borrow a lift. I have found the lift affords me room to work and options/ability to apply leverage where needed on this task.
Next time you replace your spring bushings ... Look around for an opportunity to borrow a lift. I have found the lift affords me room to work and options/ability to apply leverage where needed on this task.
- Thread starter
- #457
yea a lift would be the best option, I don't have access to one.
I bought out one of the lowes stores...at one point in time on these totes, due to storage needs. Then over time here's is where I'm at. I have too much "stuff"...thats accumulated over time, to include some reference material I've had to save from work thats in paper form (not digital), so one day I'll have a fire or a nice run to the dump.
I've become a "hoarder" of tools and so forth over many years, so the madness never lets up.
- Thread starter
- #458
So dealing with other things and putting stuff off (which is a talent I have), I'm getting around to finishing the leaf spring bushing job... I've found you might need a few of these in 1inch or 1.5 inch.
www.empireabrasives.com
and maybe something like in the picture or whatever works.
I'm on #3 leaf spring and one end has some minor surface rust in the eye of the leaf spring and so handy tool with "flap wheel" came in handy. I looked around locally and could not find anything... my friend loaned me a couple. Exactly what I needed to shine up the inside of the leaf spring eye. Doing new ubolts too. Most of the bushing have been non-issue to get out, but this one with a little surface rust was a pain and I basically had to tear one of the bushing up get it out in parts and it seemed to be a little more brital .
Well everything is going and getting greasy...like it or not.
The little die grinder tool came in really handy to deal with the surface rust. A small good ratchet tie-down strap is also good to have, and the other stuff is bascially old school mechanics tools. Doing it on jack stands sucks, but its my only option at this point...so at least I'm inside and not out in the weather. Unless something breaks or screws up, I should finish the leaf spring bushing and u-bolt + shocks job in record time byu this coming weekend. I did a few other things along the way and just put the LC off to the side and have screwed around with it here and there.
I need to swap my steering gear and i'm thinking while playing greasy..... it may be time to re-do the front axle as both sides on the front seem to be marking their ground where I would prefer it not to do that. Plus I would rather get teh "#$^&%^" done and move on to driving the #$% thing.... oh yeah that's on me
1” x 1” x 1/4” Mounted Flap Wheel - 5 Pack
The 1 inch diameter by 1 inch wide by 1/4 inch shank Mounted Flap Wheel Aluminum Oxide by Black Hawk Abrasives are the perfect abrasive for deburring, flash or scale removal, light grinding, blending, or polishing in hard to reach places, such as tubing or piping.
www.empireabrasives.com
and maybe something like in the picture or whatever works.
I'm on #3 leaf spring and one end has some minor surface rust in the eye of the leaf spring and so handy tool with "flap wheel" came in handy. I looked around locally and could not find anything... my friend loaned me a couple. Exactly what I needed to shine up the inside of the leaf spring eye. Doing new ubolts too. Most of the bushing have been non-issue to get out, but this one with a little surface rust was a pain and I basically had to tear one of the bushing up get it out in parts and it seemed to be a little more brital .
Well everything is going and getting greasy...like it or not.
The little die grinder tool came in really handy to deal with the surface rust. A small good ratchet tie-down strap is also good to have, and the other stuff is bascially old school mechanics tools. Doing it on jack stands sucks, but its my only option at this point...so at least I'm inside and not out in the weather. Unless something breaks or screws up, I should finish the leaf spring bushing and u-bolt + shocks job in record time byu this coming weekend. I did a few other things along the way and just put the LC off to the side and have screwed around with it here and there.
I need to swap my steering gear and i'm thinking while playing greasy..... it may be time to re-do the front axle as both sides on the front seem to be marking their ground where I would prefer it not to do that. Plus I would rather get teh "#$^&%^" done and move on to driving the #$% thing.... oh yeah that's on me
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- Thread starter
- #459
after some delay, new shocks, new steering dampner, new ubolts, new leaf spring bushings and leaf spring pins and mounts ....
Next I have the ps/gear to swap and may do something different with the cooler for the ps.
noticed I have a leak at the rear diff cover, so I guess I need to drain the fluid and pull the cover off and re-do sealant.
I may adapt or try to adapt FJ62 or 80 series air filer housing to my GM OEM intake (all depends on how crazy stuff that invovles.
Need to clean up some wiring, and I'm thinking about changing routing of some of the OEM type heater hoses etc. Need to get some things away from the nice furnace of the exhaust manifolds.
The old BFH and wail on the pickle fork approach seemed to work on the steering dampener, about the time you get tired of hitting it and come back it comes off in another two hits or so. Hard to get a good angle to really pound on it...at least on jack stands (driver side).... passenger side was easier to hit fairly hard. A number of the pullers I had bouht in the past would simply not work, either they would not fit (too large) or the teeth of the part that grabs ...was too large to get into the wedge between the dampter mount and the steering linkage part ...anyway I did order another puller after looking through the threads again, but that was after the fact. When I get it , I'll see about dummy loaded it and see if it will work (OTC I think was the brand).
Everything got greased and will be greased.....
Likely I need to tackle front axle too .
I dont' even drive this thing that often.....
Next I have the ps/gear to swap and may do something different with the cooler for the ps.
noticed I have a leak at the rear diff cover, so I guess I need to drain the fluid and pull the cover off and re-do sealant.
I may adapt or try to adapt FJ62 or 80 series air filer housing to my GM OEM intake (all depends on how crazy stuff that invovles.
Need to clean up some wiring, and I'm thinking about changing routing of some of the OEM type heater hoses etc. Need to get some things away from the nice furnace of the exhaust manifolds.
The old BFH and wail on the pickle fork approach seemed to work on the steering dampener, about the time you get tired of hitting it and come back it comes off in another two hits or so. Hard to get a good angle to really pound on it...at least on jack stands (driver side).... passenger side was easier to hit fairly hard. A number of the pullers I had bouht in the past would simply not work, either they would not fit (too large) or the teeth of the part that grabs ...was too large to get into the wedge between the dampter mount and the steering linkage part ...anyway I did order another puller after looking through the threads again, but that was after the fact. When I get it , I'll see about dummy loaded it and see if it will work (OTC I think was the brand).
Everything got greased and will be greased.....
Likely I need to tackle front axle too .
I dont' even drive this thing that often.....
