STLCA 60 Series Club Thread

[Elbert]

If like most others I've done I'm gonna say 4ish on the high end. For you probably more of a 3

I've found a few you-tube videos on similar cars/trucks, but nothing LC specific, but I know the process is similar. Does not appear that hard / painful on manual windows, I've just never done one, thats about to change. I hope nothing critical in parts is//are missing, I guess I'll find out this weekend. I had assumed it was a rather normal remove and replace kind of thing.

The driver side window has been pissing me off for some time, I was just too lazy or I forget about it over time, then the next time I drive the truck the issue crops up. Was able to buy two new OEM regulators so might as well do both right now and likely never have to touch that again. I probally need to check the crank handle "threads" to see if they are damaged as the window has been hell to roll up/down for some time.

 

[Elbert]

I've found a few you-tube videos on similar cars/trucks, but nothing LC specific, but I know the process is similar. Does not appear that hard / painful on manual windows, I've just never done one, thats about to change. I hope nothing critical in parts is//are missing, I guess I'll find out this weekend. I had assumed it was a rather normal remove and replace kind of thing.

The driver side window has been pissing me off for some time, I was just too lazy or I forget about it over time, then the next time I drive the truck the issue crops up. Was able to buy two new OEM regulators so might as well do both right now and likely never have to touch that again. I probally need to check the crank handle "threads" to see if they are damaged as the window has been hell to roll up/down for some time.

not bad, I got the glass out and the old regulator out on the driver side, where I realized i need to replace one of rubber parts that I forgot to order , the good is I can get the part, the bad ...wait time. impossible to get at with the regulator and glass installed. I should have done this a few year ago....

I'll get it wrapped up next weekend or sooner, pending my parts delivery.

 

[Elbert]

Two thumbs up for the koito headlight kit, best headlight setup I've had from day one, and I've tried a few. Right off the bat the lights are very much an improvement, and the angle between high and low beam is good. Well designed harness and the housings fit etc. Wish I had done this years ago and could get my money back on the other things I've tried. Plus the actual cost of the kit is very reasonable.

The only issue I found was a problem with the display of the high beam light on the dash with the use of this. With no changes the high beam light does not work on the dash (based on my experience and what I read others say). Solution (1) do nothing, (2) swap to led bulb at dash is supposed to fix (3) buy one of the custom made things...https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/high-beam-indicator-not-working-after-koito-install-led-still-the-fix.1266225/.

I bought the little resistor plug in module (not sure I'm using the right name to describe the part)...

Anyway.....all things good, lights work and work well, both high and low beam, light works on the dash, does require a harness install, but that too is well made. and of course swapping out the headlight housings.

I would use this on any older model truck / car that ran those single bulb low watt headlights that were OEM. What an improvement this is

 

[Elbert]

Ok another attempt to set a world record on this thread with XXX notes.

I think the answer is NO but I'm going to post anyway.



Anyone know of a mod or setup or "kit" to swap a GM steering gear on to a FJ60? I'm just asking....

Again this is purely for the FJ60.....I'm not interesting in chopping the frame off or something crazy....are there options out there to go with GM steering gear?

I'm a little "but sore" on having to go get the FJ60 steering gear "re-sealed / re-built" I run a GM 5.7 vortec engine with a PSC power steering pump and I don't even drive this truck that much at all and it has a PS fluid cooler also.

Presently my steering gear looks like someone dipped it in ps fluid, its not leaking from the hose or fittings for the hose...but its "nasty" once again. No lose in function but leaking bad.

I don't know if its the toyota way...but this will be about the 3rd or so replacement steering gear/rebuild since I've owned this thing.

I've read where one of the 80 series p/s pumps fits on the FJ60, I don't know if thats worth doing or if that makes any change as to better seal control or whatever...I think I'm right in saying that, but I've not explored the details. Of course parts are a problem in general...at present time.

While I don't want to screw with this...I'm forced too, but I would like to fix it and fix it right and hopefully be leak free at the steering gear for some long duration of time.

edit: No knowledge of a GM steering gear swap or mod (just was looking if something was out there....could not find anything so assumption is "NO".


my specific path forward is that I've purchased a used 80 series steering gear and getting it rebuilt by red-head steering. Working through valley hybrids on the deal, and I appreciate their feedback. Always valued insight and feedback from Georg. Found I need to get serious with the pitman arm puller, did some shopping and found some "kind of deals" on some snap-on stuff via ebay. Based on a friends advice I got one of the cone type pullers (snap-on) and then I went crazy and bough one of the more HD models in snap-on brand. OTC looks to have a few decent options too. I've not gotten my gear yet, and I expect that might take a couple of weeks. So when I get it ...let the fun games begin on swap. I'm thinking about changing the p/s cooler and the low -pressure hoses. I have some type of mini-radiator looking thing that mates to the condensor (which I don't like) but in principle the cooling is reasonable, even though I don't have any objective way to measure that. I'm thinking I may get one of the larger PS coolers from PSC, which is one of those tube looking coolers with large fins. I'm gonna surf around and see what others have done as to using this type of cooler and how mounted. I may roll the dice and try and re-seal the present FJ60 steering gear I have, someone posted up some nice pics and guide, but that will require some motivation. The present p/s gear works fine...it just leaks beyond my understanding given its use and mostly parked position over some duration of time. The gear is covered in ps fluid.... My goal is to get the new 80 gear installed and a new cooler and not have to touch this thing for a very long time (steering).

 

[Elbert]

Another post from your friend seeking input / advice.

I've noticed that I now have a nice leak of rear end dope at...you guessed it the rear differential. It appears to be leaking where the third assembly mates to the axle housing, and on the opposite side of the axle housing where the rear dif cover mates to the axle housing.

From memory there are gaskets for both the front side and the rear side of the axle housing. I don't recall what we did in the past, but whatever it was ....it seems not a very good job....

is there an an accepted known approach for long term success with leak control relative to replacing the gaskets on tthe front side and rear side of the rear axle housing (third side and rear diff cover side), and known use of any special sealer to use with the gaskets etc ? I obvioulsy would like to do this one time and get a clean result. would be great not to have to deal with this, but when messing with the rear shocks I noticed the leak was not good and needs to be addressed.

I'm guessing from memory the *&^% axles have to come out to get the third assembly out ...what fun. I 'll go back and look to make sure I'm leaking from the 3rd side...but I think that is the case, for sure I'm leaking from the rear diff cover side. May need to put something better for the rear diff cover while I'm screwing around...

 

[jynx]

Axles do have to come out and unless you have swapped a FF, you will just support the rear, pull the tires, drain the rear and pull the cover, pull the "c-clips", then unbolt the bearing housing from the end of the axle and you should be able to pull the outers without having to mess with the backing plates.

As far as sealants, I gave up on the paper gaskets long ago. clean them up good and hit them with either some orange FIPG, or I know lots of folks that use the permatex "right stuff". Lots of folks carry a can of right stuff in their tool bag to use for trail repairs.

 

[Tennessee80]

This ^^^^

 

[Elbert]

Thanks for the feedback....I heard back from my other friend (Mr. Toyota...) who advised FIPG is the "^%$#" (no gaskets) so good tips and I wanted to share too, what my friend said on top of the above..which all is good. I've got a locker in the rear, so makes removal a little more of a pain. I'm going to re-look and hope the fronts not leaking but if it is...might as do booth at the same time...as that only makes sense...unless you / i want to do the job twice. I will be using FIPG and no gaskets.

Apparently there is a specific version of FIPG thats Toyota branded, which may not be news to anyone...or maybe thats a Toyota OEM product...anyway.............

Anyone found any good replacement diff covers for rear (semi float). I think nitro did make one ............I was looking around and never found much at all?

 

[jynx]

Ruff stuff used to have a 9.5" cover that was bomb proof, but I couldn't find it on their site. Other than that and Nitro, not a ton of options for the Ole 9.5

 

[Elbert]

I was thinking someone made a armor plate or something for the front axle diff cover (that may have been ruff stuff). I can't find the 9.5 diff cover on the nitro web site, but I saw it somewhere else, that may have went out of production (I'm not clear at this point).

I'm guessing the market just does not support some of these low production run items...which I understand...

My 60 is not a rock bouncer....but I don't especially like the front diff being there to hammer the rocks, and I was thinking i might swap out the rear diff cover since I havce to deal with some leaks anyway. I guess people have come up with their own blend of skid plate or armor as well. be a long day if you punctured the front diff housing (off road).

Rather easy to damage teh front diff.(cover)....even in stock type trim...etc I try to watch for that....but again...fairly easy to do.

 

[Tennessee80]

I was thinking someone made a armor plate or something for the front axle diff cover (that may have been ruff stuff). I can't find the 9.5 diff cover on the nitro web site, but I saw it somewhere else, that may have went out of production (I'm not clear at this point).

I'm guessing the market just does not support some of these low production run items...which I understand...

My 60 is not a rock bouncer....but I don't especially like the front diff being there to hammer the rocks, and I was thinking i might swap out the rear diff cover since I havce to deal with some leaks anyway. I guess people have come up with their own blend of skid plate or armor as well. be a long day if you punctured the front diff housing (off road).

Rather easy to damage teh front diff.(cover)....even in stock type trim...etc I try to watch for that....but again...fairly easy to do.

Or….

Just run gravel trails!

LOL

 

[Elbert]

yea....thats one choice

 

[jynx]

I found this link to the Nitro cover

Toyota 9.5 Inch Differential Covers X-treme Nitro Gear and Axle

Nitro Aluminum differential covers are extremely thick and have been thoroughly tested in Moab, King of Hammers, and numerous other locations, proving they will handle the rocks, roots, stumps, and anything else you can throw at them. Finned aluminum dissipates heat faster than steel reducing...

overlandkings.com

This is the one from ruffstuff

It must not be in production anymore. I won one st GSMTR and I think it's on Andy Ridge's 40, or it was at one point.

Front diff armor options

Ruffstuff Toyota 9.5" Axle Armor

Check out the deal on Ruffstuff Toyota 9.5" Axle Armor at RuffStuff Specialties

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Toyota Axle Housing Bash Plate 3/8" Thick, Diff Guard

Toyota Axle Housing Bash Plate 3/8" Thick, Diff Guard Designed to strengthen this stock housing for constant rock abuse! This 3/8" Ruffstuff Toyota axle bash plate was designed around the mini truck stock 8" rear axle but will fit the front 8" straight axle too. The bash plate can also be...

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Toyota 9.5" Landcruiser Diff Armor

Heavy duty differential armor made specifically to fit the 9.5" Toyota Landcruiser axle. This is not repurposed 8" diff armor, it is cut and formed specifically to fit the Toyota heavy-duty 9.5" axles found on most older Land Cruisers. Includes one of each pieces as pictured. This is enough to...

moto-farkles.myshopify.com

I've also read of guys using steel pipe caps modified and welded to fit

 

[Elbert]

yea....maybe there are some old stock of the nitro things

 

[Elbert]

I'm going to post a few pics of the rear leaf spring bracket (rear of the rear leaf spring) that I pulled off and what it looks like after about 15 years. This is the OME rear leaf spring mount for the rear of the rear leaf spring....(in this example) its the driver side.

I don't know how many miiles this would be , but not really much in miles ....here and there driving around on pavement a few hours here and there, some small day trips and trails rides in the past here and there.

This is after some clean up garbage/grease/sludge/ stuff.

I noticed the wear issues.

 

[Elbert]

2nd group

 

[Elbert]

A few things I've noticed.... this is after about 15 years of use. and these have been greased some, but never taken apart since then. I took this off and apart after I broke a zerk fitting and then I noticed bushings need to be replaced.

on the bracket.

(1) some blackened wear marks on the surface of the two main pins, I don't know if thats normal for 15 years or whatever.....
(2) bigger issue with surface wear on each plate where the plates pinch the bushing (thats the leaf spring end), ( and the bushing that where the mount attaches to the frame of the truck. "circular wear patters". these look bad.

trying to learn if its obvious I've done something wrong............ wondering if torque of the fasteners was off (too tight) that made the plates pinch the bushing to tight....there is a torque rating...I just don't know it off hand and due to time, I don't recall if I torqued these right from 15 years ago or not.

I assume these brackets need to be replaced.

I assume that this shows (a) potentially lack of greasing over time or (b) lack of proper torque setting at assembly.... or combination of both, i own it either way. To the extent I'm aware.

Anyone have any feedback or insight, thanks ?

 

[jynx]

Looks like the bushing shoulders are gone and the leafs are rubbing the body side. What did the bushings and spring eyes look like?

 

[Elbert]

Looks like the bushing shoulders are gone and the leafs are rubbing the body side. What did the bushings and spring eyes look like?

I noticed some wear on the lip of bushings that rub in this area....so a couple of those are noticeable (I don't have pics of that off hand)... yes thats obvious loking at these pics...but I noticed that when it was assembled before I tore it down.the spring eye....are you talking abut the loop of the spring that the bushing go in to ? I did not notice anything there but I'll look tomorrow. I know the lip of the bushings was not totally destroyed but worn, so yes its obvious there's wear on the brackets as I posted...

I did not notice wear on the springs themeselves but I will look closer tomorrow as there might be some grease hiding things or dirt/grime.

shoulders on bushing still present. from memory.....l grab some more pics later and post.

 

[Elbert]

maybe I'll have to take the dumb@$$ award on this.... I check out things better tomorrow. maybe it was good the zerk fitting broke, forcing me to dive into this ...