Still---lexus Vibes At Standard Ome Height!
- Thread starter ShottsUZJ100
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
why don't you just put it back to stock height and see if it grrr's at all...if it does...well then, you have some other underlying issues....
19K into that, hmmm you coulda had a 100 series
;p
19K into that, hmmm you coulda had a 100 series
;p
Truck transport to Slee - $750
Slee 6" lift - $3000
Battle the vibrations for 3 monhts - Priceless!
Sorry John, couldn't help it
You should buy that $13550 100 series in the for sale section
Slee 6" lift - $3000
Battle the vibrations for 3 monhts - Priceless!
Sorry John, couldn't help it
You should buy that $13550 100 series in the for sale section
Truck transport to Slee - $750
Slee 6" lift - $3000
Battle the vibrations for 3 monhts - Priceless!
Sorry John, couldn't help it
You should buy that $13550 100 series in the for sale section
You can probably guarantee that in running around, gas money, labor costs, shipping costs, phone calls, lost time etc, he would have been far ahead if he would have just put the full 6" kit on in the first place even if he didn't take it to you Christo, hell if he did it would DEFINITELY have no funk in driving.
I think that happens a lot, the cheaper route ends up costing you more.
i don't see him as taking the cheap route. Hell, he has adjustable everything, new shafts, new ring and pinions with arb's stuffed in there.
Something smells fishy.
Something smells fishy.
I supposed that came out worse than I meant it...
He started with the J's, then caster plates, panhards, upper rear adjustables, DC front shaft, then 1.25" spacers ( i think he got the gears to deal with tire size, and no lockers assuming)
I was just meaning with all those parts, and all that swapping, phone calls, downtime, running around, etc...he or someone else coulda bought that full 6" kit, no spacers and a lot narrower field to troubleshoot in one fell swoop as opposed to try and trouble shoot over the last 3 months every little change that is made which definitley has an effect on the other pieces to the puzzle.
thats what I meant
while piecing and parting is fun if you are able to do all that work/troubleshooting/experimenting yourself for free, I highly doubt it's fun/cheap/enjoyable if you are paying someone else to do it.
There is a big possiblity something else is wrong, but without being able to take it back to 100% stock suspension, i think it's a bit hard to track down.
See the last line in this post
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=981973&postcount=196
Posted 3/6/06
Not wanting to say I told you so, but I told you so. I would say put the stock springs in and see what is up. It is not that difficult to get these things to work right.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=981973&postcount=196
Posted 3/6/06
Not wanting to say I told you so, but I told you so.
I would say put the stock springs in and see what is up. It is not that difficult to get these things to work right.- Thread starter
- #30
Didn't want the 6" lift after Slee said the spring rate was much higher than J's. It's an unloaded truck.
I can't go back to stock height. The old crap is gone.
I did drive it to Phx yesterday to get the front locker o-ring swapped. (My luck has been BAD!)
It does vibe still on the gas though better than before. It's tolerable though not like it should be. It's smooth on the gas until about 65. The T-case lever sure buzzes at high speeds.
Thanks everybody for your help. We'll play some more.
I can't go back to stock height. The old crap is gone.
I did drive it to Phx yesterday to get the front locker o-ring swapped. (My luck has been BAD!)
It does vibe still on the gas though better than before. It's tolerable though not like it should be. It's smooth on the gas until about 65. The T-case lever sure buzzes at high speeds.
Thanks everybody for your help. We'll play some more.
- Thread starter
- #32
How about getting one of those shock absorbing seats they make for military water craft?
Hope it helps....
I have one naturally in my axx.
I don't see the point of discussing this issue with your truck any more. Basically every item in the drive line has been pointed out to you as a possible problem and your responce is always the same "checked out and is ok". So either you don't have a problem or you and your mechanic's tallet behind a wrench is inadaquate to get the job done.
so as I see it you have four options:
1. live with it.
2. take the truck to someone who can fix it.
3. sell the thing and get a 100.
4. raise your game and fix it yourself and then tell us what you found.
You've exhausted the web repair route at this point and it's all you now.
so as I see it you have four options:
1. live with it.
2. take the truck to someone who can fix it.
3. sell the thing and get a 100.
4. raise your game and fix it yourself and then tell us what you found.
You've exhausted the web repair route at this point and it's all you now.
How do you KNOW the tcase output bearing is good? If it were my truck I would replace the tcase output bearing. If that didn't work, I would take it back to 4wheelasshats to look at the gear setup.
Actually, if it was my truck, and was a dedicated trail rig, like yours is, I wouldn't care about a little vibe. Now if it was shaking off the road and pieces were falling off Harley Davidson/Oldsmobile style, that might be different.
Actually, if it was my truck, and was a dedicated trail rig, like yours is, I wouldn't care about a little vibe. Now if it was shaking off the road and pieces were falling off Harley Davidson/Oldsmobile style, that might be different.
- Thread starter
- #35
I agree with you. I will probably live with it. It'll serve my purpose this way.
The one thing that nags at me though is the T-case output bearings. Three folks have checked it out. They all grabbed the outputs, shook them, tried to feel for looseness. All three said they feel it's in tight and not the blame.
Is this the way to check those bearings? If not, what's the best way?
I think this is the only thing left to quadruple-check.
I agree with you. I will probably live with it. It'll serve my purpose this way.
The one thing that nags at me though is the T-case output bearings. Three folks have checked it out. They all grabbed the outputs, shook them, tried to feel for looseness. All three said they feel it's in tight and not the blame.
Is this the way to check those bearings? If not, what's the best way?
I think this is the only thing left to quadruple-check.
In my 20+ years of field sevice there is always one canstant,
Sometimes you have to take s*** apart to see what's wrong.
in this case that means pulling the rear extension off of the t-case.
- Thread starter
- #37
It's livable now. At all the higher heights it was not.
- Thread starter
- #38
if your going that far pulling the t-case would be the easier thing to do. It's a few electrical connections, the 2 drive shafts, shift linkage and 8 bolts I think.
Then working on the bench with it is real easy.
Then working on the bench with it is real easy.
- Thread starter
- #40
Anybody in Arizona know how to do this and what to look for inside the case?