4. Remove the small plated screw holding the dampener cap in place ( sorry forgot to photo that). Now for the fun part.
The cap has indentations for whatever assembly tool they used to screw it on. The cap is threaded. Ideally someone would find a similar sized die that fits the recess and try to unscrew the cap. I didnt. as was previously described, removing the cap gets ugly. Hint, there are 3 recesses on the cap youd need to work around with a thin flat ( but strong) prying tool. Choose your precision flat blade wisely. The cap will eventually start to lift. Paint mark the hole for the cap screw, it'll be unrecognizable when you're done.
a savaged dampener cap
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5. Heres the smoking gun. The cam function of the dampener is on the far right on the cylinder, right under the cap. Two ramped surfaces are forced together under spring tension with the white ramp collar traveling on groves molded into the cylinder housing.
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The white ramps were probably at one point, a slick Delrin like type of material. By now its bone dry and you can see it grind into powder on its facing ramps
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6. Clean it out and lube it up. All channels, mating surfaces etc. Use P for plenty. Its important to choose a lubricant that is viscous and tacky as well. The stuff i used was as messy as model glue. Hopefully itll keep doing its job for years to come,
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Finally, re-assemble using a suitable socket to tap the dampener cap back in place. Also make note that the pivot rod bushings have square edges and only go in the housing a certain way. Enjoy being able to modulate your throttle pedal like Mr.T intended.
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