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It would, but it’s already off and on my Hiker Trailer. The basket was removed from the 4Runner immediately after that trip, and replaced with a Prinsu rack. It was great on the Outback, but loud as Hell on the 4Runner!I guess the Heritage Edition basket fits right in.
Congrats on the HE. Same set up I bought in 2020. Dealer bought the Take rack back before I picked it up. Where did you get the " Cabin filter warning sticker"?Yesterday, I picked up a new 2021 Heritage Edition from Ed Martin Toyota in Noblesville, Indiana. Thank you @Eric Sarjeant for finding one for me, and for all the support you offer this forum!
Let’s get this first part out of the way for all of the HE naysayers out there: Yes, I spent an extra $2300 for the Heritage to get LESS stuff than the base model. And then yes, I turned around andremoved the emblem I paid extra for, will remove the MegaWarrior basket I paid extra for, and added the OEM steps I paid extra to have removed. Doesn’t make sense? It’s exactly what I want, though.
A lot of the appeal of the Land Cruiser is that no one recognizes it for what it really is; especially here in the midwest. I was originally going to remove the Heritage badging, too, but Eric and my wife convinced me to leave it on. For now…
As mentioned in another thread, test driving a Land Cruiser three months ago was the first time I’d driven one since 1977, when I tried trading a VW Scirocco in on a 40. It has been one of the very few vehicles I’ve lusted over for nearly 50 years, and with them going away, it was time to take the plunge.
I’m 67 years old, and on average keep cars quite a while. I expect the Land Cruiser will be my last primary vehicle. There may be a toy here or there, but I already have a ’58 MGA Roadster for summer joy rides. The crazy thing to consider, is that this Land Cruiser cost more than 1000 times what I paid for my first car!
I’m coming from a 2016 4Runner Trail Premium, and among the first things I did on it was KO2s and rock sliders. How I thought I’d use it, and how I actually used it were different things altogether. So this time, I’m going with the OEM steps and maybe later some tires that are better all around than the Dunlops, and more comfortable and quieter than the KO2s. Other than that, the truck is extremely capable as is, and can go a lot more places that I’ll ever take it. If I run into a situation where I need more, then I’ll consider upgrades.
Starting Point:
- 2021 Toyota Land Cruiser Heritage Edition
- Midnight Black Metallic
- Build Date: November 2, 2020
Dealer Installed Options:
- OEM Running Boards
- OEM Front Leveling Spacer
Interior Additions/Changes:
- Husky WeatherBeater front row floor liners
- Cabin Filter Warning Sticker
Exterior Additions/Changes:
- Remove Yakima MegaWarrior Roof Basket
Suspension/Wheel/Tire Changes:
- Stock
Near Term Plans:
- Corrosion Free Rust Preventative
- 12V Power to rear storage area
- Fridge in place of rear passenger-side seat
- 2nd Row Resistor Modification
- Swap OEM Fog Lights with my Baja Design Squadron-R Pro Amber Wide Driving Lights
- Hack some mounts for my Raingler 4Runner full-length net
- Probably some stuff from the "Under $100" thread
Other Gear (Carried over from previous vehicles):
- Road Shower 4 (May end up on our Hiker Squareback Trailer)
- ARB 2500 Touring Awning (May end up on our Hiker Squareback Trailer)
- QuickPitch Ensuite Shower Enclosure
- Carista OBD2 Adapter
- MaxTrax Traction Mats
- Viair 450P Portable Air Compressor
- Recovery Gear
- MurderSpork
Possible Future Additions/Changes:
- Ceramic Coating
- Tires
- Red/White Underhood Lighting
- Red/White Liftgate Lighting
- Prinsu-Style Crossbars on OEM Rails
- Matte Black Window Trim
- Maybe Debadge V8 and Heritage Badge for more incognito appearance
Wishlist:
- Additional Heritage Edition Wheel
- Long Range America Fuel Tank w/upgraded pump and fuel lines
I have a National Luna 90 Twin fridge/freezer on a Tembo Tusk Jumbo slide that was mounted on a DIY Goose Gear platform in the 4Runner, and I used RIDGID storage boxes strapped down for gear instead of permanent drawers. In the Land Cruiser, I’m going to try mounting the fridge where the rear passenger seat is located without the slide, leaving the rear more flexible for carrying large loads.
I’ll likely add some Prinsu-style crossbars to the roof rails instead of a full-length Prinsu rack like on the 4Runner. (Thanks @tbisaacs ) These will be for the ARB awning, Road Shower, and kayak racks. We have a Hiker square-back trailer, so no need for a RTT or an interior sleeping setup.
More photos and adventures will be added to this non-build thread as they happen. Thanks to everyone here for the inspiration and fantastic community!
[EDIT] 1/28/21 Reorganized list of additions/changes
(Just some photos of another bone-stock HE)
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Congrats on the HE. Same set up I bought in 2020. Dealer bought the Take rack back before I picked it up. Where did you get the " Cabin filter warning sticker"?
Thx for the link!I'm going to guess it's the one from this thread:
Cabin Filter Warning Labels
By now, hopefully everyone here knows that in order to replace the cabin air filter, the HVAC needs to be in the RECIRC mode. If not, the Recirc mechanism can be damaged, and the repair is often neither cheap nor easy. If you aren't convinced this is a problem, see here: Cabin Filter Change...forum.ih8mud.com
Where did you get the " Cabin filter warning sticker"?
“Corrosion Free” is a brand name. Similar to Fluid Film and Woolwax, and has an 18 month warranty.Great new HE. Curious to what "Corrosion Free Rust Preventative" system are you going to use?
Thanks for the info. I can't understand why Toyota didn't coat the underside on their $90k "Flagship," ? I live in Flagstaff , AZ (7000') where we can get up to 150" of snow a year. Thankfully, the city only use sand and cinders. The state uses a cinders and a (supposedly) environmental friendly synthetic chemical that is (supposedly) non corrosive. Not sure how true that is. Fortunately, the 2020 HE stays warm and dry until the roads are cleared and then it's out to the forest service roads for some snow tracking.“Corrosion Free” is a brand name. Similar to Fluid Film and Woolwax, and has an 18 month warranty.
However, due to the weather, I ended up using a local shop that applied “PFC - Protection First Class” a lanolin based oil. Stinks like Fluid Film, but I needed to get something on quick. So far this year, I think we’ve had more salt on the road than snow!!
Corrosion Free, PFC, Fluid Film, Woolwax, etc. are all annual (or biennial) preventative measures. Permanent "undercoating", as I think you're thinking (i.e. Zeibart, et al), is not a good idea here in salt country. Or likely, anywhere else. Moisture and salt get between the permanent coating and the steel and eat it year long instead of just during the winter.I can't understand why Toyota didn't coat the underside on their $90k "Flagship," ?
Is that your theory or have you heard of others having issues with Zeibart? I live in Iowa & our roads are constantly being salted/treated so I was leaning towards a Zeibart application next week & was told they advise the rig be brought in annually for inspection & touch ups as well.Corrosion Free, PFC, Fluid Film, Woolwax, etc. are all annual (or biennial) preventative measures. Permanent "undercoating", as I think you're thinking (i.e. Zeibart, et al), is not a good idea here in salt country. Or likely, anywhere else. Moisture and salt get between the permanent coating and the steel and eat it year long instead of just during the winter.
More "conventional wisdom" than any first hand factual data. I've never had any of my previous vehicles rustproofed using any means other than the annual spring chassis wash at the Laserwash. But I've heard the "trapping moisture" theory so many times over the decades, that I've come to believe it true.Is that your theory or have you heard of others having issues with Zeibart?
Lots of criticisms out there on hard undercoating. Might want to do some more research first. No way they can prevent the adverse outcome, regardless of what they tell you.Is that your theory or have you heard of others having issues with Zeibart? I live in Iowa & our roads are constantly being salted/treated so I was leaning towards a Zeibart application next week & was told they advise the rig be brought in annually for inspection & touch ups as well.
Oh, and everything would be pre-treated to void the issue you raised. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
P.S. - nice rig! I’m on my third week with the same but in blizzard pearl
Por15 is a good option if you want to do something more permanent than fluid film and the likesIs that your theory or have you heard of others having issues with Zeibart? I live in Iowa & our roads are constantly being salted/treated so I was leaning towards a Zeibart application next week & was told they advise the rig be brought in annually for inspection & touch ups as well.
Oh, and everything would be pre-treated to void the issue you raised. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
P.S. - nice rig! I’m on my third week with the same but in blizzard pearl
Not a theory. Any sort of secondary “hard” or “rubberized” coating can be compromised allowing corrosion cells to form. Plenty of pictures of cars that look great online only to find excessive corrosion beneath the nice black layer of whatever was applied.Is that your theory or have you heard of others having issues with Zeibart? I live in Iowa & our roads are constantly being salted/treated so I was leaning towards a Zeibart application next week & was told they advise the rig be brought in annually for inspection & touch ups as well.
Oh, and everything would be pre-treated to void the issue you raised. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
P.S. - nice rig! I’m on my third week with the same but in blizzard pearl
Great upgrade!! I connect through bluetooth and routed this cable to this cigarette lighter:My first "upgrade" Thanks @jefo13 for THIS thread on using the magnetic cover on the iPad to keep it in place. Works like a charm! 11" iPad Pro (2018) in a no-name cover. Nothing rougher than about 200 miles on Ohio's pot-holed and broken roads yet, but it hasn't moved a bit!
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I'm still fiddling with getting power to it. I saw that you used a magnetic connecter, which looks like a great idea. Is this just for power, or are you using it for USB audio, too?
I don't have a USB-C to USB-A cord, so I'm using a USB-C to Lightning adaptor and then a Lightning to USB-A cord. Works for power, but the head unit's USB Source option is grayed out. I can only use Bluetooth for audio.
And I have an Apple Lightning to 3.5 audio plug that came with my phone (which works fine in the LC AUX Source with my iPhone), but it doesn't pass audio through using the above Lightning to USB-C adaptor with the iPad. I need to get a USB-C to 3.5 audio cord to test it.
And I don't think there's any way to use a USB-C splitter to feed power to the iPad AND audio via the AUX input from the iPad. That would be ideal!
Thanks again for the idea!