Many reasons why I run negative camber on my truck. Mainly is the additional cornering stability with oversized tires. When you do not have any camber (0*) and go around a corner, the contact patch (% of tire that is actually fully contacting the ground) on the outside tire will roll towards the outside of the tread. Camber is constantly changing as you go over bumps, and around corners. With positive camber (depends on how much + camber, but this is a general example) the outside wheel during a corner is going to roll over and you will be riding on the outside 30% of the tire. Reducing the contact patch on the road and effectively allowing the front end to produce understeer and slide/push. The inside tire is going to achieve a "zero" camber effect and have full contact patch. The inside tire is going to have more grip than the outside, understeer is still going to happen.
Now, with a negative camber setup, your wheels sit like this: /\. When you enter a corner the outside tire will acheive a "zero" camber position and result in 100% contact patch which will reduce the chances of understeer. Running a negative camber setup is great for cornering, however your have two other factors playing. Toe and caster. Mixing proper toe/camber is important. Camber doesn't effect the ride directly, the height of your front end is the main player. What are your hub to fender measurements? Also, I recently discovered that most generic "quickie" tire shops don't actually adjust camber/caster. They only play with toe, which can stop outside/inner tire wear and make your typical consumer think they aligned it because the tires stopped wearing on the inside/outside. I would ask what they adjust, specifically camber. Big 10 Tires in Atlanta does NOT touch camber, I had to beg them. I then went to Butler Tire (high end custom wheel/alignment shop in Atlanta) and had them fine tune it to my specs after reading multiple threads and consulting a lot of people about SUV's and camber settings.