Africaster
SILVER Star
Thanks for this Z, I’ll take you up on your kind offer (PM/DM me your details plse, PayPal OK?) and will send it on to @2001LC if not the source of issue. Appreciated Brad
Steering Rack Replacement, What's the Latest Word?
- Thread starter NoTempoLimit
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Toyota should be able to do it for less , I forget the flat rate time but think I was all in for 1000ish maybe less with all new hardware.
I took my 100 series to Toyota today and before going in I was quoted ~$1100 for the steering rack replacement. The service manager said the technicians recommended to not replace the steering rack as it was "seeping" and not leaking. It's strange because my power steering reservoir is below full levels. I get the feeling they just didn't want to perform the repair on my rig, possibly because there is surface rust and the technicians didn't want to do it for that price. Seems like "seeping", which the service manager described as just being able to see the fluid in the undercarriage, should still warrant this repair?
I think they did you a favor, but ultimately its your call on when to spend your money. These racks can seep for a very, very, very long time without issues. I recommend you flush and add AT-205, which has a good reputation of refreshing the seals and stopping weeping.
LCT
SILVER Star
Do you have part numbers for outer tie rods handy?I bought a new rack for my '03 from McGeorge. Paid $749 in 2017 and it's actually gone down in price $618 now. I also replaced outer tie rods (~$50/each). I had a local indie (LC specialist) do the work - if I recall it was about 3 hours labor.
44250-60100 - Gear Assembly Power Ste Ourisman Toyota Parts
Save Money On Your Gear Assembly Power Ste (4425060100) For Yourtoyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
Check this link…. Should be handy!
Steering Gear & Linkage for 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser | Toyota Parts|Toyota Online Parts
parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
So here is my current situation? Any suggestions. I cannot really tell where it is coming from. But it will soak everything below and around it. So I do not consider this a weep. I first noticed the leak about 3 weeks ago after getting back from a trip to Calico, CA. Thought it was the axle seal. So I replaced that, but still had fluid. Didn't even get a chance to test the seal out yet. Came out the next mooring and had a nice stain of fluid on the concrete. So I wiped everything down real good and noticed this after I cycled the steering. Other things I have done are flush the power steering fluid and replace the torn bellows.
@2001LC (or anyone else). I have an interesting problem.You can call MQ to confirm PN #'s
MG portal is better than once was, but still gives some bad PN#.
Try this sub PN# for 03-07 LC Gear Assembly Power Ste 44250-60100 | Toyota Parts - https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-gear-assembly-power-ste-4425060100?c=az0x
I think MG has wrong picture, as it shows the 98-02 rack.
Interesting, I see PQ gave a sub of this sub PN#, that's not a 100 series. They're usually spot on w/PN# and pictures.
GEAR ASSY, POWER STEERING(FOR RACK & PINION) 4425060100 | Toyota Parts | PartSouq
Quality parts for Toyota auto with fast delivery here! For a fast search using the part number 4425060100 - GEAR ASSY, POWER STEERING(FOR RACK & PINION)partsouq.com
Basically we have 3 different racks in the 100 series IIRC.
98-02 LC OR LX Blue
03-07 LC Green
03-07 LX "VGRS" Black
CVJ in Denver does okay. But they didn't know there is a difference between 03-07 LC & LX (VGRS). They use after market parts like; mounting bushings, boots & inner tie rods. Not sure about seal kit or gears. They also paint racks black, which I don't like. As it covers the identifying OEM paint.
I took CVJ a good 03 LX rack, that was just leaking at output seals. AT-205 was tried, before hand. But as usual, AT-205 is not very effective with stopping output seal leaks. Those seal once they leak are usually damaged. So AT-205 typically only slows those leaks. My cost was $550, and they had ready in a day. But the one part they can't get OEM, is the rack rubber mounting bushing. Those OEM rubber bushings no one has, that I've found.
I've an 03LX I just put new poly bushing in a few days ago. It's rack has been cover in black paint. So I suspect it is a CVJ rebuilt. I found the top PS bushing had turned, about 10 degrees CCW, most turn CW about 5 degrees. Typical a turned bushing on the 03-07 PS side is sign of failed rack bushing. What this turning indicates, is rubber separating from between metal cups of bushing. In this one 03, all the 4 hoses/lines were leaking, but rack appears dry at boots (output shafts) and steering column shaft connecting point (input shaft). I had sets of poly lying and, so I tossed those in. I also R&R all lines and hoses.
Note: I suspect oil on rack mounting bushing, results in their early failures.
I've used both rubber (from re-builders) & poly bushing rack & pinion mounting bushings replacements.
The rubber bushing used by Toyota. Are to reduce shock transfer through the system, all the way to hands on the steering wheel. If shock wasn't a consideration. Well, I suppose Toyota could have hard/solid mounting rack to the fame. But that would transfer every little bump thought the system into our hands! Which would be, hard on system and hard on hands!
Aftermarket rubber bushing are softer than OEM. As such a little too sloppy IMHO. But they do their job at reducing shock and stop HWY wondering. But when you hit the ruts in HWY, those ruts that pull at steering. They can be to soft. Add that with say old shocks & their aged bushing, control arm bushing, TRE, ball joints, AHC not tuned well and or old tired globes, etc. We then sometime kick off VSC, (scary)!
Poly bushing are hard. Almost like no bushing at all. They do not let the rack move side to side much at all. This can really tightens up the feel and eliminates HWY wondering. They last a long time if not forever. But they transfer much more shock through the system, than rubber bushing. If system components already weak, say lower ball joints aged and marginal condition. Those ball joints will go bad faster, than they would have with rubber bushing (in good condition)
The very best for reliability, value, and feel is a new OEM rack (98-07 LC & 98-02 LX). It's the only way to get OEM mounting bushings. We get new inner tie rods with the assembly, which are worth a few hundred just in parts cost themselves. So new rack is a very good value. Except for the VGRS rack of 03-07LX, which are much more pricey. In those, it may be worth sending ones own rack out to be rebuilt. Provided a good rack and best if OEM inner TRE and boots used during the rebuild.
If Toyota or Lexus is offering a re-manufactured. It would have -84 on end of PN#. This I've never looked into. But if a true re-manufactured done too Toyota standards, with all OEM. I'd be interested those.
If a new OEM rack installed, and one is still getting HWY wondering. Something else is going on. New OEM rack installed in a refreshed front end, with proper alignment (which includes at-least 3/4" rack (lower in front), will not wonder.
I like replacing old tired TRE, with new OEM only. When doing a rack job. Also replace ball joint if marginal condition. Of course, wheel bearing also need proper servicing. Then refreshes stabilizer system. BAM, like new handling, is so sweet!
Rack PS mount 03-07 turned about 10 degrees.
View attachment 2893257
Another 03-07 rack PS top mount bushing cup turned, about 5 degrees CW
View attachment 2893272
98-02 LC & LX Blue
View attachment 2893286
03-07 LX Black
View attachment 2893281
03-07 LC GreenView attachment 2893283
Steering rack bushings are shot on my 2007 LC. I guess it is a late 2007 because my mechanic says the rack is the 2008 part model and the bushings are not serviceable. Anyone have thoughts on that?
When I replace the rack would a normal 2003+ part fit or am I going to have compatibility issues with other parts? If it does fit would that be the best route or should I just go with 2008 part the truck originally came with?
- Thread starter
- #52
Seems like an error on the mechanics part. Why would Toyota change a part spec on a run-out model just before the end of production?
Anyone had their steering rack rebuilt by CVJ? I replaced my tie rod ends (555) and it improved the steering but there is still play in the steering rack. I'm sure the bushings are shot as well.
The way it was told to me was I have the steering rack that would be used on 2008+ LCs, so not a new part for the old run but I’m still not sure if that’s plausible
I have a 2004 LX. Can't find the above rack, says its discontinued. I've seen several answers, can the LC rack be used in a LX without issue?You can call MQ to confirm PN #'s
MG portal is better than once was, but still gives some bad PN#.
Try this sub PN# for 03-07 LC Gear Assembly Power Ste 44250-60100 | Toyota Parts - https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-gear-assembly-power-ste-4425060100?c=az0x
I think MG has wrong picture, as it shows the 98-02 rack.
Interesting, I see PQ gave a sub of this sub PN#, that's not a 100 series. They're usually spot on w/PN# and pictures.
GEAR ASSY, POWER STEERING(FOR RACK & PINION) 4425060100 | Toyota Parts | PartSouq
Quality parts for Toyota auto with fast delivery here! For a fast search using the part number 4425060100 - GEAR ASSY, POWER STEERING(FOR RACK & PINION)
Basically we have 3 different racks in the 100 series IIRC.
98-02 LC OR LX Blue
03-07 LC Green
03-07 LX "VGRS" Black
CVJ in Denver does okay. But they didn't know there is a difference between 03-07 LC & LX (VGRS). They use after market parts like; mounting bushings, boots & inner tie rods. Not sure about seal kit or gears. They also paint racks black, which I don't like. As it covers the identifying OEM paint.
I took CVJ a good 03 LX rack, that was just leaking at output seals. AT-205 was tried, before hand. But as usual, AT-205 is not very effective with stopping output seal leaks. Those seal once they leak are usually damaged. So AT-205 typically only slows those leaks. My cost was $550, and they had ready in a day. But the one part they can't get OEM, is the rack rubber mounting bushing. Those OEM rubber bushings no one has, that I've found.
I've an 03LX I just put new poly bushing in a few days ago. It's rack has been cover in black paint. So I suspect it is a CVJ rebuilt. I found the top PS bushing had turned, about 10 degrees CCW, most turn CW about 5 degrees. Typical a turned bushing on the 03-07 PS side is sign of failed rack bushing. What this turning indicates, is rubber separating from between metal cups of bushing. In this one 03, all the 4 hoses/lines were leaking, but rack appears dry at boots (output shafts) and steering column shaft connecting point (input shaft). I had sets of poly lying and, so I tossed those in. I also R&R all lines and hoses.
Note: I suspect oil on rack mounting bushing, results in their early failures.
I've used both rubber (from re-builders) & poly bushing rack & pinion mounting bushings replacements.
The rubber bushing used by Toyota. Are to reduce shock transfer through the system, all the way to hands on the steering wheel. If shock wasn't a consideration. Well, I suppose Toyota could have hard/solid mounting rack to the fame. But that would transfer every little bump thought the system into our hands! Which would be, hard on system and hard on hands!
Aftermarket rubber bushing are softer than OEM. As such a little too sloppy IMHO. But they do their job at reducing shock and stop HWY wondering. But when you hit the ruts in HWY, those ruts that pull at steering. They can be to soft. Add that with say old shocks & their aged bushing, control arm bushing, TRE, ball joints, AHC not tuned well and or old tired globes, etc. We then sometime kick off VSC, (scary)!
Poly bushing are hard. Almost like no bushing at all. They do not let the rack move side to side much at all. This can really tightens up the feel and eliminates HWY wondering. They last a long time if not forever. But they transfer much more shock through the system, than rubber bushing. If system components already weak, say lower ball joints aged and marginal condition. Those ball joints will go bad faster, than they would have with rubber bushing (in good condition)
The very best for reliability, value, and feel is a new OEM rack (98-07 LC & 98-02 LX). It's the only way to get OEM mounting bushings. We get new inner tie rods with the assembly, which are worth a few hundred just in parts cost themselves. So new rack is a very good value. Except for the VGRS rack of 03-07LX, which are much more pricey. In those, it may be worth sending ones own rack out to be rebuilt. Provided a good rack and best if OEM inner TRE and boots used during the rebuild.
If Toyota or Lexus is offering a re-manufactured. It would have -84 on end of PN#. This I've never looked into. But if a true re-manufactured done too Toyota standards, with all OEM. I'd be interested those.
If a new OEM rack installed, and one is still getting HWY wondering. Something else is going on. New OEM rack installed in a refreshed front end, with proper alignment (which includes at-least 3/4" rack (lower in front), will not wonder.
I like replacing old tired TRE, with new OEM only. When doing a rack job. Also replace ball joint if marginal condition. Of course, wheel bearing also need proper servicing. Then refreshes stabilizer system. BAM, like new handling, is so sweet!
Rack PS mount 03-07 turned about 10 degrees.
View attachment 2893257
Another 03-07 rack PS top mount bushing cup turned, about 5 degrees CW
View attachment 2893272
98-02 LC & LX Blue
View attachment 2893286
03-07 LX Black
View attachment 2893281
03-07 LC GreenView attachment 2893283
Tried the AT-205 for a few days but it was still leaking. Had the steering rack replaced. I have a cross country trip coming up next month and did not want to get stranded on the road.
2001LC
SILVER Star
You're not looking very hard then. Sub 44250-60120 (Old 44200-60120) R&P 03-07 LX new (Black paint on VGRS)
You likely misunderstood him. 03-07 have 2 mounting points, 98-02 have 3 mounting points. They're not interchangeable.
The question comes up: Can the 03-07 LC rack & pinion (R&P) green paint strip, be used in the 03-07 LX w/VGRS black paint strip? IDK!
I can say, it will bolt in (same year range). The seal kits the same. But the LX 03-07 has VGRS, LC does not. The fact Toyota vs Lexus not only have a different PN#, it also has a different color code to distinguish it's different. Means there is a difference! But what?
I've no doubt, some of the 03-07 LX that installed rebuilt's R&P. Are actually LC R&P.
Why, well in talking with CVJ in Denver a few years ago. At a time I took them a Factory 03 LX VGRS R&P to be rebuilt. They wanted to just swap me with one already to go. I found they had no idea these were different. Which was one reason I wanted the one I brought in, rebuilt. I also felt "my" R&R was a good one (gears not worn out), it just needed resealing. Additionally I did not want it painted all black as they and many re-builders do. Once painted all black, we've no way to identify by looks, VGRS from non VGRS that I know of.
I assume, the difference is in their gears ration.
- Is the difference enough to: kick off DTC shutting down VRGS system. If I'm correct and many rebuilt LC are in LX likely visa versa also, than no!
- Make driving unsafe or drive feel any difference. I've know idea?
1: CPU to control VGRS,
2: VRGS gearing box in black boot, under the dash (connect steering wheel to steering shaft). Note there is a recall on 03-07 LX for the snap ring of the VGRS.
3: Rack & pinion.
The VRGS system, uses input from wheel speed sensor, to adjust gear ratio by way VGRS actuator (gearbox in black boot). VGRS reduces steering wheel input at low speed and increase amount the steering wheel must be turned, as speed increases.
Here is an 03 LX VGRS that snap ring is out of place. This is very very dangerous, as steering wheel can become disconnected from R&P connection. In other words; Steering becomes uncontrollable.
Last edited:
Thank you for the info. Called the mechanic (he’s real good) and as you suspected I misunderstood. The p/n based on my vin is 44250-60100 which is what you said for my model year 2007, in your earlier post. Going to but this rack now since my parts dealer is having a sale, even though mine is not totally gone yet. Thanks again!
2001LC
SILVER Star
Land Cruiser
If bushing shot, new OEM R&P replacement at these sales prices, is the way to go. Typically we just R&R bushing, if not also leaking at output shafts.
Last edited:
Wow.. this thread has the most info i found regarding the different St racks! Thank you~
So far, My 04 LX has VGRS and original rack... Bushings were shot, so replaced them with SuperPro poly bushings... and at 275k miles, it weeped a bit inside the boots.
I changed the Inner + outer tie rods and rebooted the rack... along with some AT205. So far it feels perfectly fine...
and st fluid level hasn't changed. I'll inspect them again soon.
Driving wise, it feels fine... however, many of my buds with 100's that I wheel with have had St rack failures (older style racks) and replaced them.
I see that the Green paint rack looks physically Identical as the Black paint rack, but with nearly 1/2 price difference...
Sometime this year I'm going to go ahead and try a new OE Green rack with my VGRS LX. Worse case, It'll buy me time to rebuild the original Black rack (I have OE rebuild kit as well)... We'll see how this goes down~
I totally agree that there must be many LC/LX out there with green/black racks intermixed... most aftermarket/reman racks dont even call out the difference.
So far, My 04 LX has VGRS and original rack... Bushings were shot, so replaced them with SuperPro poly bushings... and at 275k miles, it weeped a bit inside the boots.
I changed the Inner + outer tie rods and rebooted the rack... along with some AT205. So far it feels perfectly fine...
and st fluid level hasn't changed. I'll inspect them again soon.
Driving wise, it feels fine... however, many of my buds with 100's that I wheel with have had St rack failures (older style racks) and replaced them.
I see that the Green paint rack looks physically Identical as the Black paint rack, but with nearly 1/2 price difference...
Sometime this year I'm going to go ahead and try a new OE Green rack with my VGRS LX. Worse case, It'll buy me time to rebuild the original Black rack (I have OE rebuild kit as well)... We'll see how this goes down~
I totally agree that there must be many LC/LX out there with green/black racks intermixed... most aftermarket/reman racks dont even call out the difference.
