Steering Rack Replacement, What's the Latest Word? (2 Viewers)

[newbielx470]

The factory bushings are designed purposely for some rack movement. Why exactly? I don't know but I'm sure there is a reason and because I don't think the whiteline poly bushing creator is smarter than a Toyota engineer, I stuck to the factory setup on my 2000. Why was the rack redesigned for later models? I don't know that answer either but a lot of other things changed too. You could speculate all day about these things. My best guess is that it is designed that way for isolation. With poly bushings, you will probably get feedback at the wheel from the AWD system. The steering system feel on these is already very sensitive to even the slightest tire, wheel, or balance issue.
I posted about it here
If an alignment shop is telling you something is wrong because the rack is moving a bit, it's because they've never worked on a 100 series before or aren't very experienced.
If you have a ticking manifold on the driver side, it would be a great time to replace it while the steering shaft is out.

If I jack the truck up at front driver side, hold the tire in arms and try to move it back and forth, how much play would be considered safe and won't cause long term damage? Or does it have to be very tight with very little wiggling. (Assuming bearing and knuckle are in great condition. Just movement from the steering parts.)

 

[Mike NXP]

If I jack the truck up at front driver side, hold the tire in arms and try to move it back and forth, how much play would be considered safe and won't cause long term damage? Or does it have to be very tight with very little wiggling. (Assuming bearing and knuckle are in great condition. Just movement from the steering parts.)

I don't think you need to jack it up to find the play. With the wheels on the ground you can have someone move the steering wheel while you look at the rack . In my case I can see the rack move about 1/2inch and it's a Toyota oem rack. Consensus is this is normal but could be tightened up with aftermarket bushing

 

[Travis Bickle]

cvjaxles.com for a factory reman unit, highly recommend.

 

[NoTempoLimit]

@2001LC Thanks for the VERY informative post!
I want to go with poly bushings as I HATE the lack of steering feel and stability (highway wander).
But I just checked on Whiteline's site and they have to be pre-ordered with a 4-6 week wait.
Anybody ordered from Whiteline recently? Does it really take that long?

 

[UltTrail runner]

4. Is it possible to do something short of replacing the rack that would make the situation better and defer replacing the rack for a future time? Would a PS fluid flush and adding AT-205 help recondition the seals and buy some time?

I would confirm the necessity to replace the steering rack first. Check the fluid level of the power steering fluid. And see how quick you are losing fluid, and how much. AT205 would be my 1st approach if fluid lose is really slow.

 

[Bisho]

Has anyone tried rebuilding these? The only wear items are orings and Teflon rings. I’m debating trying. I have a slow leak on the input shaft. My inner tie rods are less than a year old, so less incentive to get a complete unit.

 

[2001LC]

Has anyone tried rebuilding these? The only wear items are orings and Teflon rings. I’m debating trying. I have a slow leak on the input shaft. My inner tie rods are less than a year old, so less incentive to get a complete unit.

I've a rack seal kit. But haven't had time to use it yet.

AT-205 is 90% effective at stopping input shaft leak.

 

[2001LC]

@2001LC Thanks for the VERY informative post!
I want to go with poly bushings as I HATE the lack of steering feel and stability (highway wander).
But I just checked on Whiteline's site and they have to be pre-ordered with a 4-6 week wait.
Anybody ordered from Whiteline recently? Does it really take that long?

Call them Whiteline!

Slee carries poly coil spacer. They may have the rack bushings as well. Check their web page.

 

[NoTempoLimit]

Call them Whiteline!

Slee carries poly coil spacer. They may have the rack bushings as well. Check their web page.

I'll call Whiteline early next week. Slee is out of stock on the rack bushings: SLEE - Steering Rack Bushing Set - '03-07 Land Cruiser - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/sof1302/

 

[Africaster]

Some input please guys.
symptoms:
1. Stiffish steering wheel - 3 fluid flushes over the last couple of months helped 5-10% cumulative
2. there are definite points during a turn that are stiffer than others … it feels like a building stiffness followed by a faster incidence of relief … like a slotted rod against a gear but the rod is oval not round

thoughts?

(There is a factory rebuilt OEM rack reasonably close for $400 odd, but was planning it as a 2023 replacement item)

 

[jsloden]

Has anyone tried rebuilding these? The only wear items are orings and Teflon rings. I’m debating trying. I have a slow leak on the input shaft. My inner tie rods are less than a year old, so less incentive to get a complete unit.

Sometime, if the rack isn't worn too bad the seals can be replaced and that fixes the issue. Other times though, the metal actually distorts making new seals a temporary fix. I've tried re-sealing racks both with good and bad outcomes. I have "heard" that toyota actually mic's their racks to ensure that they can be rebuilt without having issues down the road. I would like to believe this but who knows. By the time you pay for the seals and the amount of labor involved I would just purchase a factory rebuild one.

 

[2001LC]

Some input please guys.
symptoms:
1. Stiffish steering wheel - 3 fluid flushes over the last couple of months helped 5-10% cumulative
2. there are definite points during a turn that are stiffer than others … it feels like a building stiffness followed by a faster incidence of relief … like a slotted rod against a gear but the rod is oval not round

thoughts?

(There is a factory rebuilt OEM rack reasonably close for $400 odd, but was planning it as a 2023 replacement item)

View attachment 2895598
View attachment 2895597

What fluid are you flushing with. I love Mobil 1 ATF in our power steering, and in the 98-2002 transmissions.
Was/is screen in bottom of reservoir clean. If not, it can result in pressure issue.
How's the rest of components like TRE, ball joints and intermediate shaft U-joints.
Any accidents in history.

Hard to imagine a 170K miles, rack shot.

 

[2001LC]

I'll call Whiteline early next week. Slee is out of stock on the rack bushings: SLEE - Steering Rack Bushing Set - '03-07 Land Cruiser - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/products/sof1302/

If you get in a bind and can't wait. I think I've 2 set (03-07) Whiteline poly on the shelf. But really I'm not wild about letting them go. I keep for when I need, not really for resale.

 

[Africaster]

What fluid are you flushing with. I love Mobil 1 ATF in our power steering, and in the 98-2002 transmissions.
Was/is screen in bottom of reservoir clean. If not, it can result in pressure issue.
How the rest of components like TRE, ball joints and intermediate shaft U-joints.
Any accidents in history.

Hard to imagine a 170K miles, rack shot.

-Fluid = Mobil 1 ATF (as per another thread where you had recommended it )

-Reservoir screen = last week did the disassemble of the reservoir, clean out using ‘green’ type cleaner, low power squirt gun, nylon brushes and left overnight to dry out (and a few minutes with a hairdryer for good measure) before reinstalling

-Components = don’t know yet, will be inspecting when front LCA, UCA and sway bar bushings arrive from Impex next week (weather permitting) … no leaks found anywhere around the truck so far apart from wayward drips during AHC fluid and steering fluid replacements

-Yes = minor passenger front (OP stated next door neighbor reversed into truck whilst parking) …. had completely forgotten about this! What to look out for? ( extra data … T&T both don’t work - Techstream shows power to them so had assumed motors were u/s but maybe related?)

Thanks 2001LC, appreciate any and all insights

Cheers
Brad

 

[2001LC]

I've found damage control arms, TRE and AHC sensor, after accident repairs. Any of number of things these body guys fudge on.

Check CV of front drive shaft also. I've a busted aftermarket FDS in the shop now. I did notice steering binding at points, even jamb after I jacked up and place rig on jack-stands.

 

[Africaster]

I've found damage control arms, TRE and AHC sensor, after accident repairs. Any of number of things these body guys fudge on.

Check CV of front drive shaft also. I've a busted aftermarket FDS in the shop now. I did notice steering binding at points, even jamb after I jacked up and place rig on jack-stands.

Binding … that’s the word I was trying to get to!

Tx, will check CVs as part of the control arm “refresh”.

Appreciated

 

[2001LC]

Look close at intermediate shaft (between firewall and input of rack & pinion) also. I have seen a universal on it, damaged before. Actually was on one rack that had been R&R. Seem someone using air hammer, sliced through a universal. I could also imagine one being rusted and binding, in rust pron areas.

If all checks-out as good, well then must be rack.

 

[Zer0zg]

Some input please guys.
symptoms:
1. Stiffish steering wheel - 3 fluid flushes over the last couple of months helped 5-10% cumulative
2. there are definite points during a turn that are stiffer than others … it feels like a building stiffness followed by a faster incidence of relief … like a slotted rod against a gear but the rod is oval not round

thoughts?

(There is a factory rebuilt OEM rack reasonably close for $400 odd, but was planning it as a 2023 replacement

I just went through the exact same symptoms with mine. The culprit was a rusty lower intermediate shaft U-joint. I went ahead and replaced one of the rack bushings as well(chickened out on the DS) along with the shaft. Completely solved the issue. Given your truck is NJ where mine spent most of it's life, I suspect you may have the same issue. Before replacing the rack, I'd inspect this to see how it looks, and ideally remove and rotate the joint to see how it feels.

Incidentally, I ordered the wrong intermediate shaft the first time around, part changed in '04, so if you want one for a '99 I have a brand new OEM one that I'd be happy go sell for significantly under the going rate.

 

[2001LC]

I just went through the exact same symptoms with mine. The culprit was a rusty lower intermediate shaft U-joint. I went ahead and replaced one of the rack bushings as well(chickened out on the DS) along with the shaft. Completely solved the issue. Given your truck is NJ where mine spent most of it's life, I suspect you may have the same issue. Before replacing the rack, I'd inspect this to see how it looks, and ideally remove and rotate the joint to see how it feels.

Incidentally, I ordered the wrong intermediate shaft the first time around, part changed in '04, so if you want one for a '99 I have a brand new OEM one that I'd be happy go sell for significantly under the going rate.

View attachment 2897620

If he doesn't take your interment shaft, PM me. I'll buy and store it. I'm sure I'll find a rig that needs one sooner or later.

 

[Zer0zg]

If he doesn't take your interment shaft, PM me. I'll buy and store it. I'm sure I'll find a rig that needs one sooner or later.

Great, will do. And just for the avoidance of confusion, this is PN 45203-60090 which I believe is for 98-03. The one I needed for my '04 is 45203-60110.