Steering rack / bushing opinions

[2001LC]

I've not seen them before. But they look like they'd fit. We'd need dimension to be sure. They "may" be firmer rubber, than the ones believed to be China (stated to me) made we get from R&P re-builders.

I'm going to order a set, 2x P/N#'s 4410A621 for the oval, and 2x 4410A620 round center hole and find out if they fit.

 

[Loay]

I've not seen them before. But they look like they'd fit. We'd need dimension to be sure. They "may" be firmer rubber, than the ones believed to be China (stated to me) made we get from R&P re-builders.

I'm going to order a set, 2x P/N#'s 4410A621 for the oval, and 2x 4410A620 round center hole and find out if they fit.

I ordered the same to check them also.

 

[Joe422]

I have the SuperPro bushings in my rack for over a yr, and like it.
doesnt feel any rougher/worse than stock, and has Far less slop.
Feels good even off road.

one thing i learned the dumb way, was to clean the thread on the rack bolts (from poly grease).
mine got loose after a few trails, but cleaning the threads and re-torquing solved it for good.

 

[Loay]

Got a sample bush P/N# 4410A621 and compared it with the counter fit bushing that I had.
Seems they share the same OD and minor little different in hieght. I might grind one side of the top side busings and fix a washer for bottom side bushing to lift the rack up so final rack clearance from the housing will be same as original bushing. The original bushings allow literal movement only thus the Mitsubishi bushings will fit the purpose and last same as the original toyota bushings.

In the pictures below the longer with oval hole bush is the Mitsubishi one.

 

[2001LC]

Got a sample bush P/N# 4410A621 and compared it with the counter fit bushing that I had.
Seems they share the same OD and minor little different in hieght. I might grind one side of the top side busings and fix a washer for bottom side bushing to lift the rack up so final rack clearance from the housing will be same as original bushing. The original bushings allow literal movement only thus the Mitsubishi bushings will fit the purpose and last same as the original toyota bushings.

In the pictures below the longer with oval hole bush is the Mitsubishi one.

View attachment 3019727

View attachment 3019728

View attachment 3019729

View attachment 3019730

View attachment 3019731

Bummer! If the so called "counterfeit" are OEM size. Do you know for sure, that the counterfeit are OEM height?

 

[liveoak]

I want to reiterate that the factory bushings are designed to let the rack move a bit left to right. If your alignment person(or yourself) says the bushings are bad it may be because they have never worked on a 100 series before. It is designed that way for steering comfort to help mitigate the harshness of a full time all wheel drive system from the steering wheel. Most of the movement happens when the truck is sitting still and it has to scrub the tires, it doesn't move nearly that much when driving. I know some people say they felt an improvement of poly and some say they feel more vibrations. I just don't want anyone to think they have a problem that needs to be fixed when they see the rack move. A brand new Toyota rack will do the same thing.

 

[Loay]

Bummer! If the so called "counterfeit" are OEM size. Do you know for sure, that the counterfeit are OEM height?

Will find out soon next week. I need to measure the bushings hole depth in the rack and compare it to the OEM one measurements.

I want to reiterate that the factory bushings are designed to let the rack move a bit left to right. If your alignment person(or yourself) says the bushings are bad it may be because they have never worked on a 100 series before. It is designed that way for steering comfort to help mitigate the harshness of a full time all wheel drive system from the steering wheel. Most of the movement happens when the truck is sitting still and it has to scrub the tires, it doesn't move nearly that much when driving. I know some people say they felt an improvement of poly and some say they feel more vibrations. I just don't want anyone to think they have a problem that needs to be fixed when they see the rack move. A brand new Toyota rack will do the same thing.

I remember once when my OEM bushings shot i used to have my steering wheel off center to the left and other times to the right. I did replaced the bushing to Ploybushings and after 3 days i got my ABS activated when taken slight turns while driving over 80 Km/hr. It was terrifying moments. I did many checks and replacements throwing money for sensors Yaw rate and calibrating the steering VGRS , replacing tyres and the problem did not solved.

Finally took over the rack again and replaced the poly bushings to the OEM counterfit bushings. I realised that slight movement to the right ànd left in the rack is nessarry for those LX's. After replacing the bushing the car returned to normal behaviour but i cant control the car in strait line i need to move the steering in opposite direction to keep it moving strait.
Until recently i did changed all my back UCA /LCA to new arms and my car handling improved a lot.

As I am using this Lx for offroading the counter fit bushing got shot and the rack start moving up and down which resulted in oil leak in pinion seal. Now to repair the pinion seal I will remove the full rack and do complete overhaul changing the entire seals and bushings to OEM quality.

With the mitsubishi bushings it looks they are having more rubber to the side and they might be more firmer and will allow less literal movement to some extend compared to the OEM once.

 

[2001LC]

IMHO: OE (original equivalent), not sold as OEM. I'd refer to as; aftermarket or OE. Now if sold as OEM, that be what I'd call counterfeiter.

 

[liveoak]

With the mitsubishi bushings it looks they are having more rubber to the side and they might be more firmer and will allow less literal movement to some extend compared to the OEM once.

I like this idea.

 

[REZARF]

I cannot confirm that is the same bushing but for the Lexus and Toyota to use two different bushings on a steering rack would be beyond me. I would bet good money (and your time) that they are the same thing.

 

[sailor95]

Hopping on this because my rack shifts side to side but I doubt i can do rack. I do think I could handle bushings myself on a 2000 model year though and bust my knuckles for a weekend.

 

[Loay]

Hopping on this because my rack shifts side to side but I doubt i can do rack. I do think I could handle bushings myself on a 2000 model year though and bust my knuckles for a weekend.

Those bushings are for 2003+ models. I did fixed the mitsubishi bushings after redressing my rack with new seal kit and new inner rods. My friend did charged me cheap for changing the rack seals and polishing the rack shaft .

Those busings need to be cold cut to reduce the length before fixing them. I did cut them using grinder and cold water. Only to be carful to cut them to the exact needed size not less other wise the outer rubber will be squeezed when tightening the rack bolts.

 

[murphthelab]

Not sure which rack bushing thread to add this question to. Guess this one will do...

Anyone who's done the 03-07 steering rack bushing replacement themselves, have you tried raising the engine on drivers side, much like the script for full steering rack replacement?

I have read lots of references to what a bitch the drivers side bushing is due to clearance. Some remove the oil filter, or the housing (bit of a mess). Wondering if the same engine-raise trick applies here. Raising the engine a bit is easy enough, but not sure it provides the type of room which helps with bushing access.

 

[2001LC]

Not sure which rack bushing thread to add this question to. Guess this one will do...

Anyone who's done the 03-07 steering rack bushing replacement themselves, have you tried raising the engine on drivers side, much like the script for full steering rack replacement?

I have read lots of references to what a bitch the drivers side bushing is due to clearance. Some remove the oil filter, or the housing (bit of a mess). Wondering if the same engine-raise trick applies here. Raising the engine a bit is easy enough, but not sure it provides the type of room which helps with bushing access.

It's doable without lifting engine. "Lifting" will not help much really! If filter in your way, remove it. If the filters metal drain shoot lip in your way, you can bent it a little. Do not bent in halve, just kind twist over from one side a little, if you feel the need.

 

[Mike NXP]

All I know is I regret paying for a new Toyota ( reman ) rack and bushings because I have some serious slop in my rack

New video by Mike - https://photos.app.goo.gl/yJThx3nYExWcWZdD8

 

[2001LC]

Keep in mind, rack is designed to move side to side. Wondering on HWY is biggest clue, we've weak R&P mounting bushings. But the system must be looked at as a whole. i.e: Alignment, tire thread, ball joints, shocks ,AHC pressure, T-bar,s inner and outer TRE, wheel bearings. Personally If replacing a Toyota R&P, I'd not even consider a reman. Savings just doesn't justify! If a Lexus VGRS R&P, perhaps!

 

[Mike NXP]

Keep in mind, rack is designed to move side to side. Wondering on HWY is biggest clue, we've weak R&P mounting bushings. But the system must be looked at as a whole. i.e: Alignment, tire thread, ball joints, shocks ,AHC pressure, T-bar,s inner and outer TRE, wheel bearings. Personally If replacing a Toyota R&P, I'd not even consider a reman. Savings just doesn't justify! If a Lexus VGRS R&P, perhaps!

Good point, I regret the reman. In my case, everything else is new relating to steering parts
.
My rear end is sitting a little higher than I'd like and that may be the culprit for wandering.

 

[sunfic]

Keep in mind, rack is designed to move side to side. Wondering on HWY is biggest clue, we've weak R&P mounting bushings. But the system must be looked at as a whole. i.e: Alignment, tire thread, ball joints, shocks ,AHC pressure, T-bar,s inner and outer TRE, wheel bearings. Personally If replacing a Toyota R&P, I'd not even consider a reman. Savings just doesn't justify! If a Lexus VGRS R&P, perhaps!

I think LEXUS VGRS can use LC100 non-VGRS R&P without much problem. maybe a little bit more angle to do the full turn.

I bought LC100 non-VGRS R&P trying to replace my LX470 one. still sitting in my garage could not find time to do it.

 

[2001LC]

Good point, I regret the reman. In my case, everything else is new relating to steering parts
.
My rear end is sitting a little higher than I'd like and that may be the culprit for wandering.

Rear higher than front, reduces wondering. 3/4" is minimum, 1 1/2" is great. More than that IDK.

I think LEXUS VGRS can use LC100 non-VGRS R&P without much problem. maybe a little bit more angle to do the full turn.

I bought LC100 non-VGRS R&P trying to replace my LX470 one. still sitting in my garage could not find time to do it.

I had two LX VGRS with non-VGRS R&P installed by Slee, in my shop back to back. The first was a heavy built, complaining hard steering in low speed. The second a stock LX. I noted steering slightly harder in low speed. If that's all using Non-VGRS in a VGRS system does, it should be fine.

But if it causes over steering at high speed. That could be a problem????????