Steering rack / bushing opinions

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sdnative

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Sorry for another thread on steering racks. I am about to replace my steering rack bushings with SuperPro poly bushings, but I wanted to get a few opinions first. I am pretty sure my original bushings are shot, but it seems the rack itself as well as the TREs are in good shape. There is no fluid on the rack or boots, but the boots are deformed. Thoughts? Thanks!

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Trying to upload the video now...
 
I've a boot doing same thing, just not as bad. It's of no concern unless has hole, just reboot for $20 if it does. The key is, are gears tight in rack, if so poly bushing will buy you years. The down side is poly lack as much give as Mr T intended.

See master link in my signature, I just did bushing on "Snowy's" rack. It's a bear getting them out. I'd not do without air tool!
 
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Here is the video, for some reason the online video editor I used inverted it. So it's upside down. This is with the engine NOT running and both wheels on the ground.

How bad is this? Seems like excessive movement to me.
 
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I've a boot doing same thing, just not as bad. It no concern unless has hole, just reboot for $20 if it does. The key is are gears tight in rack, if so poly bushing will buy you years. The down side is poly lack as much give as Mr T intended.

See my signature, I just did bushing on Snowy's rack. It's a bear getting them out. I'd not do without air tool!

I read most every thread on steering rack bushings, including that one. I always enjoy reading your tech threads, very educational. What air tools would you use and how/where would you use them? Air ratchet? Chisel? I have seen a couple different techniques that I may try.
 
I've tried ordering a front diff support arm bushing from them - in stock, ships immediately blah blah - so after I place the order I get an email two days later saying the bushing was on 6 week back order. You may have better luck with them.
 
I read most every thread on steering rack bushings, including that one. I always enjoy reading your tech threads, very educational. What air tools would you use and how/where would you use them? Air ratchet? Chisel? I have seen a couple different techniques that I may try.
Air chisel. I think I showed picture of tools in my thread. You need to push or pry up the lip one side then the other and keep moving from side to side. Once up enough I was able to fold inward on itself.

I just pick -up some from @sleeoffroad I believe they are Whiteline.
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate it.
 
I feel like I'm missing something or misremembering. My rack bushings all but fell out when replacing, no air tools required.
 
I feel like I'm missing something or misremembering. My rack bushings all but fell out when replacing, no air tools required.
Older vs Newer rack perhaps. 98-02 has large horse shoe bushing on RH with front and Rear bushings on LH. These come out easy but PITA to get some in.

Toyota changed steering rack in 03 IIRC to a single larger bushings on each side (one LH & one RH sides). These are much like the front differential bushing in that they are housed in a metal cup. The cup is pressed into the rack. See post #150 Scored a 06 LC (untouched Jewell restoration)
 
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they are housed in a metal cup. The cup is pressed into the rack.

Does the cup need to be removed? Is that a part of the OEM rubber bushing system? The poly bushings do not need these cups? My Whiteline kit (W13208) does not include these.
 
The old OE pressed in bushing cups must be removed prior to fitting the slide in aftermarket polys. No easy way around it!
 
You must remove cups, thats the hard part. The rubber bushing is molded into it. You''l need to pry up lip working from side to side. There is two cup on each the RH & LH bushing. The left is mounted in aluminium, the RH in iron.
04+ Steering Rack Bushing Replacement

Center of rubber is out but cup is still there.
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RH side (easier side) both top and bottom out.
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LH side is the biggest PITA.
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Note the cups they took a real beating as I folded then in on themselves to remove.
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Good luck!
 
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Slee sells a poly kit too, I'd suggest a Toyota rubber "D" bushing though due to the poly slipping over time under use and causing the steering wheel to go out of alignment. No biggie it just can slip on the poly vs the rubber.
 
I finally got the bushings replaced. What a major pain. I cut out all the rubber material first so I could work on the cups. The bottom DS came out first after hammering the flange back and folding it in on itself. The bottom PS was the hardest for me, I had to fight with that for over an hour and I almost gave up. It was during this time I broke down and bought an air hammer and some chisel tips. Once the bottoms were out, the tops came out easily by pushing up from the bottom with the pointed chisel tip. Couple of seconds per side.

I did remove the oil filter cooler to make the DS access easier. I ended up stripping the short 14mm bolt head trying to get it off. The two longer 12mm bolts and the 12mm nut came off fairly easily from the front of the truck using a 1/4" drive ratchet and a deep well socket. When I took the lower coolant hose off it got really messy. This piece of rubber came out of the pipe circled in red, should I be concerned?

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I did order a new o-ring since I had it apart.

Here are the new bushings installed. What is the best way to torque the nuts to 89 ft-lbf? I can kind of get a torque wrench on the DS, but not on the PS at all. Is there a trick I am missing?

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That piece of rubber is looks like Toyota FIPG. I'll bet it's some from the water inlet to water pump seal. Seems everyone uses to much FIPG in that spot. What work has been done on your engine, time belt perhaps?

Just torque rack mount from the bottom bolt end, holding the nut with a box-end wrench.
 
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