Watch for this part to be in the Discontinued Parts list soon, as everyone will now be making a run on them.........
Steering box?? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cclemow
- Start date
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Not anytime soon. There is too much current demand.
Great to know!
If oil is Leaking right down on panhard or other bushings, it will eventually eat them away.
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Lots of good points in the thread. A few options:
1. Send for a reseal to WTOR (or similar) and have them do some work, which will include setting the preload on the box. May help some.
2a. Buy a new pitman arm and sector shaft, and have the box rebuilt. Replacing half the gears in side will reduce the slop/play in the box.
2b. Buy a reman'd box. Similar to #1 but you may or may not get a box with the amount of play you currently have.
3. Buy a new toyota box. Prices from amayama are somewhat reasonable if you plan on keeping/driving the cruiser for a while. Still crazy expensive but for me....the slop in my steering after replacing/adjusting all other components was the one thing that annoyed me the most when driving; so for the cost of one set of nice tires, I'll get no-slop steering. Also I ordered the lower ujoint to replace at the same time.
HTH,
Corey
Bloomer
SILVER Star
Doing some research here on an issue and came across this thread. Can someone describe what is meant by slop and loose steering as it relates to steering box issues? Realize it may be hard to explain in text form but when I think of slop or loose steering I think of reaction time of vehicle (maybe like a dead space in the steering or delay) to when steering wheel position is adjusted. Am I understanding this correctly?
Just purchased back my first land cruiser (a 95 year model 80). There’s no dead space in the steering, the vehicle responds pretty well to when the steering wheel is turned. But, it does feel a bit unstable. I know It needs shocks and likely new springs, but curious if maybe steering stabilizer may be my issue over steering box? Any other tell-tale signs for steering box issues?
Thanks,
John
Just purchased back my first land cruiser (a 95 year model 80). There’s no dead space in the steering, the vehicle responds pretty well to when the steering wheel is turned. But, it does feel a bit unstable. I know It needs shocks and likely new springs, but curious if maybe steering stabilizer may be my issue over steering box? Any other tell-tale signs for steering box issues?
Thanks,
John
For me this presented as the ability to move the steering wheel about 1.75" each direction without any corresponding movement in the output of the steering box. I believe the Toyota spec is 1" measured on the steering wheel. So free play in the wheel where the cruiser reacted much more to the imperfections in the road causing constant steering correction needed.
If your truck is feeling unstable, aside from checking all the components, biggest improvement in mine during troubleshooting was making sure there was the proper amount of toe-in. I was at about 1/8" toe out which made the thing wander all over the place. Replaced tie rod/drag link ends and did the self alignment and it made a good amount of difference.
If your truck is feeling unstable, aside from checking all the components, biggest improvement in mine during troubleshooting was making sure there was the proper amount of toe-in. I was at about 1/8" toe out which made the thing wander all over the place. Replaced tie rod/drag link ends and did the self alignment and it made a good amount of difference.
not the OP but this is helpful for me! When you say “reacted”, does this mean that you would hit a bump, the wheel would shake an inch in either direction, but the cruiser itself would stay on track?
that’s what is happening to mine, particularly in cold weather. I’ll be driving straight, hit a series of bumps, The wheel will turn about an inch to both sides, but the cruiser itself stays on track. Any suggested items to look at will be helpful!
What is your lift / suspension modifications?
What you seem to be describing would be "Bump Steer". You hit a bump, the steering wheel moves, then as the bump is past, you MAY have to correct the direction of the truck, leading in a lot of steering wheel wagging to keep it pointed in the right direction.
Stock lift, but 285’s on 17” tundra wheels.
Actually just the opposite; I'd hit a bump or imperfection in the road and the steering wheel would stay in the same place but the cruiser would change direction. Which then would cause me to have to steer in the opposite direction and then most likely correct back the other way. So exhausting.
Your scenario is interesting as the only way to get movement into the steering wheel would be from the front wheels, linkage and steering box. How are your other steering components? What is your caster and toe?
Bloomer
SILVER Star
@coax @Bryan Smith @BILT4ME Good feedback and discussion. Thanks. Seems to cover the clarification I needed. Thank you!
Ive been throwing parts at it here and there with little success. I’m not an expert by any means, and the mechanic I was taking it to before I no longer trust. So far I’ve replaced the steering stabilizer and rebuilt the power steering pump. I’d have to take it to a shop to find out the camber/toe?
COYS
SILVER Star
So if I want to refresh my 23 year old steering components reviewed in this thread, the parts I need to order are the following?
44110-60212 power steering gear box
45411-60360 pitman arm
44111-60060 sector shaft
How difficult are these parts to replace labor wise? Thanks.
44110-60212 power steering gear box
45411-60360 pitman arm
44111-60060 sector shaft
How difficult are these parts to replace labor wise? Thanks.
Leave the sector shaft out. It’s already in the box part number. The arm and the gear box would make it plug and play.
Of course, then you can do things like rag joints, intermediate shafts, etc. as I pointed out in my steering gear box thread from 2009, IIRC.
COYS
SILVER Star
Thanks, Onur. What's the best way to reach you? I tried calling a number I used earlier this year from your website, but it no longer works for some reason.
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Care to link that here for posterity’s sake?
i paid $175 to have a guy rebuild my core with new Gates seal kit and sand blast the core. Zero play and zero leaks so far and i wheel it fairly hard on 37s.
