Stealth, Cheap Subwoofer (1 Viewer)

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So after installing the four Polk Audios in the doors and putting a 4x30W amp behind them, I found that these have great bass all on their own. Enough that the little factory sub-thingy was now completely useless.

What I needed next was a "true" subwoofer, one that would produce the first octave of human hearing (20-40Hz). Okay that's hard to get so I'll settle for 25-50Hz, which will dovetail nicely into the lower limits of the Polks.

What is needed for that kind of low frequency extension is a large, sealed enclosure. I looked into the area where the factory sub was and found that there just wasn't enough room to hide it so I decided I needed to use the cargo area. But how to make it stealth? And cheap?

Here's what I came up with:

Action Packer - $5.00 from the thrift store.
Particle board shelving - Free (dumpster find).
8" long-throw woofer - $27.00 www.mcmelectronics.com
Connectors - About $15.00

Here it is in stealth mode, just another action packer:

Sub100.JPG

When in use:

Sub101.JPG

This where I decided to mount the sub-amp. Maybe others have done this, I dunno, I thought it was pretty clever.

Sub102.JPG

This looked like a safe place to put the speaker connector:

Sub103.JPG

Same connector on the box:

Sub104.JPG

BTW, the sound is just what I was aiming for, amazing.
Plus, I can remove it easily and the system still sounds great!

Sub100.JPG


Sub101.JPG


Sub102.JPG


Sub103.JPG


Sub104.JPG
 
That is a great idea, i love the fact that its stealth also easily removed when needed and its in a protective case for garage storage.
 
Right, it won't hurt to get rained on either while I'm camping.
 
Brilliant.
 
Thanks,

Some early readings: 100db @ 22Hz !!!
 
cool!
 
Hate to rain on your stealthy parade, but there is no way that thing is reproducing any 25hz signal with any fidelity, plus a flimsy action packer is the opposite of what you want for a sub cabinet.

If it works for you fine, but I wouldn't recommend that setup.
 
The box is inside of the action packer, maybe I didn't make that clear.

Fidelity at 25Hz? Well, even the highest-end commercial subs still put out as much as 10% distortion at the lower end. It's more of a tactile thing in that realm.

Besides, where you find these frequencies is with electronic music mostly so, you know, fidelity is pretty much not of concern.
 
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I likey. Easily removable, kid proof, I'm on it.
 
Thanks for sharing. Installing Sub this weekend. What about filling the sides of the cooler with concrete? That would give it some serious cabinet heft. I have built some home theater sub cabinets by pouring concrete into a form. The punch pick-up versus MDF is notable.

For a less messy version, you might want to pour in sand. Just drill some top holes on edge of your cooler, pour and plug.

A little overkill I know, but hey, this is a fun hobby!
 
Yeah, that would do the trick, but I decided I wanted it on the lightweight side after herniating a lumbar disc this summer.

I settled on using internal bracing for rigidity. Besides I don't need the lowest frequencies to be super loud, I just need them to be there.
 
I should also note that I optimized the box for low-end extension at great cost to power handling ability. (the box is larger than ideal for the woofer I chose)

The internal volume came out to be 1.1 cu. ft., probably better suited to most 10" woofers, which would give it a flatter response (lower "Q") if you're looking for more output while using a higher crossover point.
 
Only thing I'd change is the banana plug, those are fine for home stereo, but because they're non insulated are a no-go for mobile setups. I prefer the ones with set screws that won't short out if something metallic falls on them. Like a seatbelt buckle or whatever.

Stealth and easily removed. I like!
 
I know what you mean about the banana plugs, but I didn't find any of the set-screw type that accommodate heavy gauge wire.

Do you have a source?
 

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