Static Timing w/Non-USA Distributor

[Nevinsj]

I think I've read every post on static timing and tried them all, but I still cannot get a light or spark. With the key in the on position (engine off) should I get votage to the wire that goes to the distributor? I only get 12 volts when I'm actually trying to start the engine, but 0 volts with the key on.

74 1.5F

 

[handcannon]

With the key/ignition switch in the on position you should have 12V going through the switch and to your coil. No power through to the coil? Start backtracking through the system, do you have 12V coming to your switch? Keep backtracking until you find where the power stops.

Don

 

[cruiserbrett]

one of two things:

wrong wire hooked to coil(correct=black with yellow from wiring harness should connect to one side of ballast resistor-in addition to the wire from starter solenoid which only sends 12 to + side of coil when cranking)

or

bad ignition switch

 

[Pin_Head]

Could also be a bad ballast resistor if you are checking at the coil + lug. Check for power at the other side of the resistor. If there is power, then the resistor is open. Note that the voltage at the coil will depend on whether the points are open or closed. The voltage at the - side will be 12V when open and 0V when closed.

 

[Nevinsj]

I found the engine 15A fuse blown, replaced it, but still no voltage. I don't have a ballast resistor, never had one in the system, I suppose the PO removed it when they desmogged and went to non-USA dizzy. I have two wires to the + side of the dizzy and one to the - side. I had spark and voltage last week, but while trying to set the dizzy in and at TDC, I cracked the cap. During the week I might of screwed up, I left my battery charger on with the cables hooked up. The battery instead of being at 12v was at 6v, not sure why. The small black emission box by the fuse block is still connected into the system, could I have fried that? Are they still available?

 

[Pin_Head]

The coil power comes directly off the ignition switch and it is not fused. The engine fuse runs the alternator and other stuff.

Charge up the battery and try again. If no power at the coil, check at the ignition switch. You also need to find out why your engine fuse blew so your alternator can work.

 

[Nevinsj]

Thanks! I charged the battery and have 12 volts at the battery, but not to the wire to the dizzy with the ignition in the on position. I had 12v volts last week, and spark, now no 12v and no spark.

 

[Pin_Head]

Run a wire directly from the battery + to the coil + (eg hotwire it) and see if it runs.

 

[Nevinsj]

Ohm the wire to the neg side of the coil, checked good, than I checked voltage at the ignition switch, I have to play with the switch to get 12v to the wire at the distributor base, but was able to get it. Would this mean a bad key switch or bad contacts in the harness side?

 

[Pin_Head]

More likely a bad switch but bad connections are easier to check first.

 

[Nevinsj]

If I pop the plastic cover off the harness end will springs pop out?

 

[65swb45]

Ohm the wire to the neg side of the coil, checked good, than I checked voltage at the ignition switch, I have to play with the switch to get 12v to the wire at the distributor base, but was able to get it. Would this mean a bad key switch or bad contacts in the harness side?

If you have to wiggle the switch, REPLACE IT! This is very dangerous, and could also lead to the starter engaging while you're driving!

Best

Mark A.