Starting issues with 2H motor

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cbmontgo

cbmontgo

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I just got back in town from a 5-day off-road trip and my 1983 HJ47 is having starting issues.

It doesn't want to fire; the engine just turns and turns. I installed a new OEM fuel filter and bled it today, but still no dice unless I use starting fluid, then it starts up and runs fine.

I also ran a bottle of Stanadyne additive in this tank of fuel if that matters; I have never used that stuff before.

We trailered the rigs down on a gooseneck trailer and it was parked nose-high since the back wheels were on the rear lower deck of the trailer. I am starting to wonder if it being parked that way had something to do with it?

The injectors and glow plugs are old and may even be original. However, I've had no issues with starting until now. Ideas?

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How much of a cocktail did it need to go?
Have you tried priming the IP with the primer pump before starting?

The reason I ask is that it would take a LOT of cranking to suck fuel back into the engine if it had gotten air in the system (which is possible with old, brittle fuel lines, and the slope it was parked at could definitely contribute to it). I don't know on a cruiser, but my old tractor takes about 1/4 can of ether if it is shut down with the fuel shutoff valve to suck fuel from the tank to the engine (and the tank is a couple feet higher than the engine on that machine).

But try the hand primer. If it takes a bit of pumping to get fuel, then you've got air in the system upstream of the primer. If it starts off entirely primed, then you need to look downstream of the primer. I am unclear whether you changed the fuel filter with it on the trailer, or on level ground.

Probably not a bad idea to check your GPs too, but I doubt it's cold enough that those should make that much of a difference.

Dan
 
Thanks, Dan.

It only needed a few shots to get it fired up with starter fluid.

I swapped out the fuel filter on level ground (filled it to the top with clean diesel) and primed it until the bleeder ran fuel out with no air bubbles. It only took about one stroke (or less) on the primer to purge air out of the line between the IP and the top of the fuel filter. I felt like it was primed tightly, but I only checked it on the 10mm bleeder valve on top of the filter and didn't crack open the injectors. Should prime until the injectors let out diesel?
 
Yes. Try bleeding the injector lines--and see if it improves.

If you got air in the lines (and it sounds to me like you did) then you'll want to get all of it out before deciding that there's really a problem. Chances are that running and driving it a bit will bleed them as it is, but with no other changes recently that would be my first guess.

Dan
 
Mate check the glow plugs with a multi meter to see if all six are working to spec. The engine won't start unless the glow system is working especially you guys state side who are coming into winter. :)
 
ozcrusier said:
Mate check the glow plugs with a multi meter to see if all six are working to spec. The engine won't start unless the glow system is working especially you guys state side who are coming into winter. :)
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I second that. I bet your glow plugs died. Even a healthy 2H on a hot day has big trouble starting without glow.
 
cbmontgo said:
Thanks guys. What is the most common failure on a set of glow plugs? Relay? Fuse?
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They just burn out at some point. You can easily test continuity on the plugs (it's described in the FSM). Disconnect the bus bar and measure continuity between plug terminal and ground. If there is no continuity, the plug is dead.
cheers,
J
 
I figured out the problem. The bus bar was cracked near cylinder #6 and so the glow plugs weren't getting any power. I can't believe that I missed this! She fired right up.

Can I replace this part of copper with a #2 wire and terminal connectors or should I fab up a new flat bar? Thoughts?
image.webp
 
keep in mind that serious amps are going that way .. so set it accordingly ..
 
cbmontgo said:
Thank you! How about the shorter section of bus bar that goes from the relay to that long glow plug connector? This is the part that is cracked on mine.
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Could be this:
28624-68011
But seems discontinued. Hard to tell from your pics...
 
cbmontgo said:
Could I replace this entire part with a heavy gauge wire and terminal connectors? Any particular gauge that you guys would recommend?
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Anything thats capable of carrying about 70A is fine.. I replaced my entire glow plug rail with a brass ruler for example..

r79oval.jpg
 
cbmontgo said:
Could I replace this entire part with a heavy gauge wire and terminal connectors? Any particular gauge that you guys would recommend?

@fitzmooney, I don't think I can stretch it enough to redrill it since the end broke off.
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Is your connector not used? if you eliminate it it will change the crosstalk between coolant temperature and preglow. But the part seems discontinued, so there is little choice anyway.
I am sure a thick wire would work fine, I'd go with very thick, 1 gauge or so.
 
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