Starting issues with 2H motor

[diogenese]

I'd agree with fitzmoony and solder a bit more onto the end of the burnt bit. Then you don't loose the functionality of the superglow relay. If you power the plugs up for too long they can burn out as they are low voltage units in your enginr.

 

[lostmarbles]

I don't think ordinary lead/tin solder would cut it because I believe the solder would melt/fail from the heat produced by the high current (and ordinary solder is not recommended in any hot area that's subject to vibrations anyway). But perhaps a product like tecfos or silfos would work with a proper lap joint (assuming the strip is made of copper, brass or suchlike and NOT aluminium or any aluminium alloy).

Failing that...............
This HJ47 has superglow preheat so the bit that's broken is a special sensing resistor that provides feedback to the timer. In other words, replacing it with a thick wire or bit of brass strip or whatever would upset the timer and involve moving away from superglow. This would involve changing the glow plugs away from 6V and converting the preheat system to manual (either with 8.5V plugs if you include an appropriate glow controller upstream or with 10.5V plugs without any glow controller and in the style of a typical "Wilson Switch Preheat System").

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

It might make sense to call SOR with your part number and talk to someone and email them pic. They have tons of used parts (lots of diesel ones) and made several HJ47 in the past for part out.

 

[cbmontgo]

It might make sense to call SOR with your part number and talk to someone and email them pic. They have tons of used parts (lots of diesel ones) and made several HJ47 in the past for part out.

That is a great idea. Thanks...

 

[cbmontgo]

I don't think ordinary lead/tin solder would cut it because I believe the solder would melt/fail from the heat produced by the high current (and ordinary solder is not recommended in any hot area that's subject to vibrations anyway). But perhaps a product like tecfos or silfos would work with a proper lap joint (assuming the strip is made of copper, brass or suchlike and NOT aluminium or any aluminium alloy).

Failing that...............
This HJ47 has superglow preheat so the bit that's broken is a special sensing resistor that provides feedback to the timer. In other words, replacing it with a thick wire or bit of brass strip or whatever would upset the timer and involve moving away from superglow. This would involve changing the glow plugs away from 6V and converting the preheat system to manual (either with 8.5V plugs if you include an appropriate glow controller upstream or with 10.5V plugs without any glow controller and in the style of a typical "Wilson Switch Preheat System").

Tom,

The part that is broken is not the section with a wire, but the next section of busbar that bolts directly to the glow plug busbar. It appears that this piece is one single piece of copper with no sensor, so can I replace it with heavy gauge wire and not mess up the super glow system? Here is a pic of the actual part removed and my replacement fabbed:

 

[cbmontgo]

Another issue I see is that the screw in the top terminal of glow plug # 6 (at firewall) won't screw in and is loose.

 

[diogenese]

Were there no small wires going to the broken piece? If not then you will be fine with your new part
That glow plug is all used up! There is an insulating piece missing too that might have been the reason it all burnt out in the first place. You will need a new one of those.

 

[cbmontgo]

Were there no small wires going to the broken piece? If not then you will be fine with your new part
That glow plug is all used up! There is an insulating piece missing too that might have been the reason it all burnt out in the first place. You will need a new one of those.

Good to hear. Yeah, this part has no wires coming from it.

I bet you are right...maybe the failed glow plug terminal caused this issue over time.

Does anyone know of a USA source for the glow plugs? The Toyota OEM are discoed, the Champion appears to be discoed, and the Bosch only seem to be available in Australia.

Plugs are PT 146 6V 8D according to what is stamped on them.

 

[cbmontgo]

I just ordered at set of 6 Bosch glow plugs from Australia. I'll post up once I get them installed and everything put back together.

 

[diogenese]

Last weekend I fired up the H engine in my restoration for the first time in 14 years, the only things I have done to it is to bleed the fuel system and pull the glow plugs and test them till they glowed. It started on a flick of the key!
Here's to hoping yours will be good again with new plugs

 

[lostmarbles]

Tom,
The part that is broken is not the section with a wire, but the next section of busbar that bolts directly to the glow plug busbar. It appears that this piece is one single piece of copper with no sensor, so can I replace it with heavy gauge wire and not mess up the super glow system? Here is a pic of the actual part removed and my replacement fabbed:.............

Were there no small wires going to the broken piece? If not then you will be fine with your new part
That glow plug is all used up! There is an insulating piece missing too that might have been the reason it all burnt out in the first place. You will need a new one of those.

I agree with Diogenese's advice..

Good to see you're replacing all 6 plugs at the same time too. Being parallel-connected, it is very important they are all replaced simultaneously because you want all the tips to reach the same temperature at the same time. (If one were to have a different resistance to the other others it would draw a different current and heat at a different rate.)

 

[cbmontgo]

Amazingly, the glow plugs that I ordered from Australia on Monday, showed up today.

I installed them as well as my new wire link, and the engine fired up faster than ever. Thank you guys for all the help!

 

[ozcrusier]

My fix for the burnt buzz bar above would be a piece copper pipe cut in have and hammered on a anvil to a close size then punch the bolt holes to size and trim to spec. Once your happy with the finished product use some electrical shrink wrap and its done.

 

[cbmontgo]

My fix for the burnt buzz bar above would be a piece copper pipe cut in have and hammered on a anvil to a close size then punch the bolt holes to size and trim to spec. Once your happy with the finished product use some electrical shrink wrap and its done.

I tried that, but it started to smoke and smell really bad, so I went with the heavy gauge wire. It seems to work better. It looked good though

 

[crustyBJ60]

Digging up old bones here, but this is what you may have been looking for. Still available on eBay.com.au

I'm sure you can get this kind of small stuff sent across the pond by post.

There are a few regular sellers on eBay Australia that carry this kind small bits on the regular.

Hope that helps.

Cheers
Crusty

 

[crustyBJ60]

A factory wiring diagram is indispensable. Other wise you are just guessing or relying on what somebody else is guessing at.

I thought there was a mud member with every EPC and service manual on line. I do know it can be a bit difficult/expensive to find hard copy's of factory manuals.

Don't get me wrong, this is the place for answers you can't find anywhere else.

My experience with Toyota diesel electrical issues, as limited as that may be, start with the cheapest thing and work your way up.

Nothing feels better than knowing your own truck inside and out. Last resort for me is to let anyone lay hands on my cruiser. Seriously... don't touch my cruiser. Lol that's just me.

Cheers
Crusty

 

[crustyBJ60]

My bad.

This

was the one I was looking for.

Part Shop - Landcruiser HJ47 8/80-10/84 - ToJo 4wd Centre, Toowoomba

Cheers
Crusty

 

[cbmontgo]

My bad.

This

was the one I was looking for.

Part Shop - Landcruiser HJ47 8/80-10/84 - ToJo 4wd Centre, Toowoomba

Cheers
Crusty

I looked for that part for weeks last November! Thanks for posting.