Starter or Neutral Switch or Something Else? (1 Viewer)

[aedgington]

Been going the rounds on trying to figure out occasional starting (and related?) issues.

Symptoms, randomly occurring:
Won't start.
-- Will start if I shift gears up and down
-- Dash lights on/okay

Start Hesitation:
-- Will pause for a second, then start
-- Will click, pause, start

Power Loss:
-- Twice while driving, power has dipped. Dash dims, radio reboots. Lasts just a second or two.

Clock resetting:
-- Sometimes it starts perfectly fine... but my clock is reset to 1:00 as if the battery has been disconnected. Sometimes the navigation goes through it's disconnected initialization sequence.

When it does start, it turns over strong. I've only ever heard a single 'click' once or twice.

What I've done:
-- new alternator (130a upgrade from 80a)
-- new 27F battery
-- new starter relay

From reading threads, I -think- I'm down to it being the starter or neutral sensor switch. The power loss suggests starter. Being able to switch gears and start suggests NSS. Maybe they're both bad? Maybe it's something else? Looking for suggestions before I spend more money.

TIA

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I’d check all grounds/connections first. The fact that you’ve lost electrical power while driving indicates a bad connection somewhere.

 

[excessive]

I've never heard of a Neutral Safety Switch going bad on a Landcruiser.
i know there are known issues with 00-02? fuse boxes, maybe check and re-seat all your associated relays

 

[aedgington]

I’d check all grounds/connections first. The fact that you’ve lost electrical power while driving indicates a bad connection somewhere.

I'd read in one of the starter threads that the relay going bad could cause a sudden draw that did that.

Had 2 days with no issues at all, then engine died pulling into work. I'll check the fuse box.

 

[2001LC]

Been going the rounds on trying to figure out occasional starting (and related?) issues.

Symptoms, randomly occurring:
Won't start.
-- Will start if I shift gears up and down Engine turns over (cranks) strong/normal, but does not start. Until shifting to N and or back to P. Sign of neutral lockout SW issue. My GF had a very lite touch, shifting to Park. We had this crank, no start now and than. Each time, I'd have her shift to N or N than back to P with some force, it started.
-- Dash lights on/okay

Start Hesitation:
-- Will pause for a second, then start Not sure what's meant by pause. I'll assume no crank. Could indicate electrical contact or starter drive issue. Typically when starter issue, dash lights dim. But weak battery or battery connection may act the same.
-- Will click, pause, start. Bad starter drive and or its gear will do this. 8 of 10 times, dash lights will dim.

Power Loss:
-- Twice while driving, power has dipped. Dash dims, radio reboots. Lasts just a second or two. Good sign of electrical issue, like loose ground or battery clamp loose.

Clock resetting:
-- Sometimes it starts perfectly fine... but my clock is reset to 1:00 as if the battery has been disconnected. Sometimes the navigation goes through it's disconnected initialization sequence. Good sign of electrical issue, like loose ground or battery clamp loose.

When it does start, it turns over strong. I've only ever heard a single 'click' once or twice.

What I've done:
-- new alternator (130a upgrade from 80a)
-- new 27F battery
-- new starter relay

From reading threads, I -think- I'm down to it being the starter or neutral sensor switch. The power loss suggests starter. Being able to switch gears and start suggests NSS. Maybe they're both bad? Maybe it's something else? Looking for suggestions before I spend more money.

TIA

Open above.

As @JunkCrzr89 mention, "ground"! But you may have more than one issue. Since shifting an starts, neutral lockout SW may also be and issue. But it could have been false shift than start (just happen to start). Additional "click" is often associated with bad starter drive and sometime relay. Having hood open as someone attempts to start, as you try to pin point sound of click, can be helpful. Clock reset, indicates battery disconnect.

If these "start" issue began after install of ALT or Battery. Than I'd look very close at their connection/clamps/wire housings.

Your signature line only states LX470, I'll assume 98-02 (80 alt to 130). For sure take a hard look at alt connection. No mention of miles or built. But some link to "hack your NAV." Any aftermarket wiring or non year mod, is always suspect and needs a look.

 

[aedgington]

Multiple issues. Connections tightened and we'll see.

The starter issue is unbearably stupid but worth a laugh. I hadn't decided how to wire up the switch for my new lights so I've had those wires/controller just sort of draped over the center stack. Because of that I've been real gentle about shifting gears so I didn't yank anything. Apparently I've been easing into Park too softly for that to register sometimes.

Derp, derp.

 

[aedgington]

Gone from 'mildly inconvenient' to 'WTF' on the electrical issues. Battery is fully charged and truck will light up the cluster but won't start, cycle locks, etc. Did some more reading and looking into the fusible links and fuse box. Most of the reference pictures I've found are of the 82620-60030 box (2004+) rather than the older 82620-60010 (98-03) one.

Not really sure how to crack this thing open and check the links or even how to get this last black wire off to replace it. Any help?

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

I have had the same issues on my tundra. For me moving the gears around did get it to start but was not related to the issue which was a bad starter.

 

[aedgington]

I was considering the starter but there are a few items like the clock reset and now dead/low power situation that is making me look at the links and fuse box.

 

[daeojkim]

Gone from 'mildly inconvenient' to 'WTF' on the electrical issues. Battery is fully charged and truck will light up the cluster but won't start, cycle locks, etc. Did some more reading and looking into the fusible links and fuse box. Most of the reference pictures I've found are of the 82620-60030 box (2004+) rather than the older 82620-60010 (98-03) one.

Not really sure how to crack this thing open and check the links or even how to get this last black wire off to replace it. Any help?

View attachment 3307882

Did you find an answer to how to remove that last wire where the 7.5 Amp fuse goes? I am stuck here. I am not sure how to remove it without damaging the fuse connector. I don't think you are supposed to just pull the wire. I thought may be there is a way to carefully push from the top.

Does anyone know how to remove the wire with fuse connector?

 

[aedgington]

Did you find an answer to how to remove that last wire where the 7.5 Amp fuse goes? I am stuck here. I am not sure how to remove it without damaging the fuse connector.

I actually did not. Sorry. I ended up replacing the fuse box and that solved my issues so there wasn't a need to replace the fusible link.