Stalling on startup

[jdlobb]

I didn't find anything in search that matched.

Here's the problem, it's been going on for a while, but it's more frequent now.

On occasion the engine stalls out immediately after turning over. This can be mitigated by applying a little throttle and holding the engine at about 1k RPM for 10 seconds or so, then letting off and it goes to normal idle.

In the event the engine stalls out the headlights dim, sometimes the battery discharge light comes on.

It never stalls after the engine has achieved a stable idle, and doesn't stall when you put it in drive or reverse.

From time-to-time the battery discharge light will come on while driving, temporarily.

Battery is brand new, K&N air filter is cleaned and recharged in the last year. Mechanic performed a battery and alternator check last week, both turned up ok, and the problem couldn't be replicated in the shop.

Thoughts? Anything jump out at you, or I can check?

 

[outdoorsman]

I believe you might have a bad connection.

Check battery posts even if they look good. It sounds like it is the connection to the battery. The battery provides power to the coils before it starts and then the alternator powers everything after it starts. You could even remove the battery after it starts and it should stay running. This is why you should look hard at all battery connections and cables from the battery.

Look at all of the ground wires loose or corroded. They are a bunch to check firewall to engine, .....,...

Could be wire harness issue, fuse box issue.

 

[jdlobb]

I believe you might have a bad connection.

Check battery posts even if they look good. It sounds like it is the connection to the battery. The battery provides power to the coils before it starts and then the alternator powers everything after it starts. You could even remove the battery after it starts and it should stay running. This is why you should look hard at all battery connections and cables from the battery.

Look at all of the ground wires loose or corroded. They are a bunch to check firewall to engine, .....,...

Could be wire harness issue, fuse box issue.

good look. hadn't thought to check that. Will do that this evening

 

[abuck99]

Always helps to post up year, miles (and any mods you've done that might affect electricals).

Get into Techstream and have a look for codes and DTC's. If you don't have techstream its easy to get a obd connector and software patch. Or maybe someone around Dallas can assist.

Initial thought could be:
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Fuel Pressure regulator

 

[morganism]

If it was a 60 i would say the coil and ignitor grounds, but the 100 will prob turn out to be the fuse box input, from the alt. If you have the wire coming into the bottom of the engine compartment fuse box, get some heavier ga wire, and rewire that. Is a big problem in the 4Runners.

The connector on the bottom of the fuse box gets metal fatigue very easily, so dismount the whole thing carefully. A new brazed on bolt, and re-wire to the alt is the perm fix.

 

[jdlobb]

Always helps to post up year, miles (and any mods you've done that might affect electricals).

Get into Techstream and have a look for codes and DTC's. If you don't have techstream its easy to get a obd connector and software patch. Or maybe someone around Dallas can assist.

Initial thought could be:
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Fuel Pressure regulator

sorry.

1998
220k miles
DT headers, K&N filter, iridium plugs @ 180k

no other mods

Don't have a code reader. Will be ordering one. Looking for recommendations.

 

[abuck99]

sorry.

1998
220k miles
DT headers, K&N filter, iridium plugs @ 180k

no other mods

Don't have a code reader. Will be ordering one. Looking for recommendations.

Get Techstream

read here: How-To: TechStream In 5 Minutes

 

[KraziAzn]

sub'd. mine also does that.

 

[jdlobb]

Get Techstream

read here: How-To: TechStream In 5 Minutes

will definitely do. I'm traveling to NYC all next week for work, so I'll order it and have it waiting for me when I get back