SS Minnow (2 Viewers)

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Unreal Cam.

I know you kept an accurate account of your hours...you gonna publish that figure, or does that fall under rocket scientist/client privilege?

If you have to ask..........
 
Never seen those, need a special tool?

By the way...super clean project Cam!

Thanks!

You could use diagonal cutters or end cutting pliers to pinch them shut, but these give more leverage with less effort:

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Next up was the wiring. I planned to put the computer in the roomy glovebox, out of the elements and out of sight, but wasn’t sure if I needed to cut a new hole for the wiring harness or if I could fish it through the big grommet on the passenger side.

We were already replacing the grommets, so I was free to tear up the existing one to find out if it would fit. I had to partially dissect the computer plugs, but was able to feed it through...

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I played around for a bit with how to route the wires. As much as I like the AFI kit, the harness never feels like it was made to fit perfectly. Many of the wires are run individually where they could be bundled, and vice versa. And I’ve always had to lengthen at least one or two of the sensor wires.

So I started pointing the wires toward their eventual home to se how it looked.

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The in-tank pump came from Tanks Inc (whose products I now sell, give me a ring if you need some assistance <—— shameless plug :grinpimp:) and they have a really nice pump wiring kit with the relay and beefy wires at a nice price.

I kinda threw it in the floorboard hoping a mounting solution would appear...

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After staring at it and not seeing a layout I liked, I decided to procrastinate and put the wiring off til the end. That would give me more time to stare at it and for solutions to appear.

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After staring at it and not seeing a layout I liked, I decided to procrastinate and put the wiring off til the end. That would give me more time to stare at it and solutions to appear.

I still had the problem of the IAC plug not fitting against the valve cover to deal with. You need to be able to unplug it to set the idle (they are usually set high, in my experience), so making it unpluggable was important.

More reason to put it off.
 
Needing a quick mental win, I scanned the dry erase board where I keep running to-do & parts lists. One of the easy tasks was filling the fluids. Coolant, engine oil, diffs, check the transmission & t-case.

I get through the gear oil, no problem. I finally got one of these bucket pumps which make quicker work of the job...

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Fill it up with coolant, check.

I bought a big ass 2 gallon jug of oil for the engine, and I’m carefully pouring it in. I’m about 2 quarts in when I hear the dreaded trickle hitting the floor :rolleyes:

Fuccccc... I must’ve left the drain plug out. I put the jug down and peak under, when I see that the trickle has turned into a sheet of oil rolling off the drivers side of the engine.

It is coming out of the valve cover like a waterfall. WTF??
 
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This was my first time working with the earlier cork valve cover, and I didn’t have it positioned just right. It doesn’t lock in to the cover, so you can’t just put them on - the cork won’t stay in the channel. I didn’t fully understand this when I put the cover on.

So I lick my wounds and clean up the mess. I clean the gasket off before the oil had a chance to soak in, and FIPG it to the valve cover...

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Not wanting to chance it shifting during the install, I let it set up under weight. After it did, I put more FIPG on the other side and carefully tightened the cover, waiting again for this to set up before (more) slowly filling the engine the final time.

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This is a good time to show off the new dipstick tube & dipstick. The old tube was mangled and not staying pressed in the hole. A new one really helped complete the new, fresh look.

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Next up - steering...

Old removed...

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...and a new set of ends from Terrain Tamer were installed w/a coat of paint on the rods...

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After a thorough cleaning it and the arm were painted and oven cured...

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...and reassembled with new Fuji guts...

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...and then all was installed. Even though I took a few pics of the steering arm setup before removal, it took a few tries before putting the puzzle pieces back in the correct orientation.

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I never rebuilt this on Patina. It drives perfect but I do have slack in the steering.

Wonder if I should do that.

Do it. The steering is tight AF now.

This is the first time I’ve ever checked the play in the center joint. I’ve checked the couple of 40s I’ve come into contact with since, and they’ve all had slop.
 
While all this was going on, new 33/10.5s were mounted on new factory wheels, so this was a good time to put them on with new lugnuts and freshly greased factory length shackles.

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Even though the extended shackles and new rubber bushings had been replaced this century, they were pretty dry and not rotating. The bushing was doing all the work and the suspension didn't flex at all. New grease in the bushings got the shackles swinging and the ride softened up considerably. Now it rides great, the shorter shackles no doubt also contributing to the improvement as well as the look. Only thing that would improve the ride now is firmer seat foam.
 
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I think we used every reputable Cruiser vendor out there buying parts for this. Somewhere in the mix, a set of these cowl drain tubes & grommets from City Racer were installed.

They’re silicone and supposed to be easier to wrangle into place than the factory rubber ones. They were still a pain, but having an extra set of hands helps keep the grommet in place while you feed them in. It is tight quarters inside the dash, especially on the drivers side.

(pics stolen, no actual pics of install)

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