If they are all 16 years old, yes do all 5. There are threads on here about who makes the TPMS sensors for the ‘09. You can get those from a reputable place (to avoid counterfeit) and not have to go to the dealer. If it was me, I’d simply go to Discount Tire and have them change them all.
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter JamesC
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For what purpose? Do you have extra weight?
I’m assuming for slow off roading? If so, I don’t know why not. But use caution when turning, etc. maybe @gaijin can chime in.
Visit your local tire shop like Big O. They have a tester that can identify the bad sensor(s). They can replace the sensor without having to rebalance the tire. I recently had to replace 3/5 sensors in my Taco and my local Big O did each with OEM sensors I bought via one of the parts sales. So not programing. One sensor was dead, two other had 10% of their life left.
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gaijin
GOLD Star
A general rule of thumb for airing down offroad is to start at 50% of RCTIP and adjust from there according to conditions. Of course, this would be for offroad use only at speeds not to exceed about 25 mph.
Assuming the RCTIP for the stock Dunlops under discussion is 33psi, this would mean whan airing down is necessary for offraod use, start at 17psi (50% of 33psi (16.5psi) rounded up to 17psi).
HTH
I had dealership install new sensors for winter set of tires. Could easily have bought aftermarket sensors. I think most mechanic shops could program the sensor and input the new code.
bloc
SILVER Star
Factory sensors are made by Pacific Industry, reboxed by Denso, non-counterfeits are available on rockauto, and the sensors themselves don't need to be programmed. They just need to be woken up.. Tire shops mess this up a lot because they don't read the directions that come with them, explaining that it's different than the procedure for their in-house clones. Tthe process is to mount the tire, inflate to street pressure, then deflate back to zero, then refill the tire. That will wake them up. They do all have unique transmit IDs though, and those will need to be programmed into the vehicle. If you go this route NOTE YOUR ID's!! I keep mine in my larger maintenance spreadsheet.
If the tire shop can't program them, Techstream or the Carista bluetooth OBD module and app can do it.
These sensors are much, much better than the stuff sold at tire shops. They routinely go 10 years, depending on climate and probably miles driven.
If the tire shop can't program them, Techstream or the Carista bluetooth OBD module and app can do it.
These sensors are much, much better than the stuff sold at tire shops. They routinely go 10 years, depending on climate and probably miles driven.
If I air down to, say 25 PSI, would it be safe to go faster? Say around 40 MPH?
That's perfectly safe in my book.
gaijin
GOLD Star
It really depends on the conditions - unfortunately, there is no clear, general guidance for this.
If you are on sand or any smooth road, then you would probably be OK going 40 mph for short periods of time; but still, you should avoid any extreme maneuvers, hard braking, etc.
Bear in mind that the two biggest enemies of a tire are low pressure and (consequently) heat build-up. Try to avoid conditions that push either of these conditions beyond normal limits.
HTH
I'd agree with @gaijin advice above too. Your risk acceptance profile would be what you're willing to accept or not. I've done similar driving on asphalt with short runs of 5ish miles at 35mph at approximately 22psi - knowing no hard braking/steering inputs were anticipated.
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Thanks, I was considering long stretches of washboard roads, do you air down for those?
UPR LC
GOLD Star
Absolutely, makes a huge difference in ride comfort.
Try 25psi, if it is still too rough, go lower by 5 psi.
You will get the feel for it once you try it.
How hot do you plan on letting your tires get, and how are you going to check them?
Honestly I’ve previously done hours of washboards on my AT3W falken tires as low as 18 PSI. I didn’t really know to check them or how (still not sure how to tell if it’s too hot) until reading some threads here. The other issue is that these are the stock dunlop tries so I also fear they may not dissipate heat as well?
Has anybody seen a silicone (or rubber) battery terminal protector that will work with a two wire set-up like in the picture below?
All I am finding is protectors that allow for one wire of varying sizes. I suspect I’m using the wrong search terms but can’t think of what else to use.
All I am finding is protectors that allow for one wire of varying sizes. I suspect I’m using the wrong search terms but can’t think of what else to use.
Your ground (negative) lead should be ok like it is, but assuming the positive is uncovered I think you should be able to get something 3D printed that will cover it nicely. It's not rubber/soft but should work for safety/fire/arc prevention. If I could get my 3d printer online, I'd make you one and just get you to send me a shipping label. HTH.
There are temperature gauges for each tire in the MID. They’re just mislabeled as TPMS.
You can watch the reported psi, and if it gets like more than 20% more than the cold temp, your tires are heating up and you need to be careful.
For day to day pressures the delta cold to hot is supposed to be within 10%z
You can watch the reported psi, and if it gets like more than 20% more than the cold temp, your tires are heating up and you need to be careful.
For day to day pressures the delta cold to hot is supposed to be within 10%z
i did my maf and 02 at 290 k
