SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (25 Viewers)

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For me, the fix was replacing the charcoal canister.

But I got to this only after I had tried the simpler/cheaper fixes: new gas cap and replacing the purge valve.
Thanks. Yeah I was thinking that was the route. Changed it a few years ago chasing the boiling fuel/"dad it's smells like gas in the truck" gremlin.
 
Thanks. Yeah I was thinking that was the route. Changed it a few years ago chasing the boiling fuel/"dad it's smells like gas in the truck" gremlin.
I left off one other quick potential fix: changing the little air filter that’s behind the wheel well if you have an LRA fuel tank. That seems to solve the codes for a lot of people.
(You won’t have this filter if your fuel tank is still stock)
 
Speaking of evap codes...I finally got em just this past week, although the boiling fuel first appeared years ago. What's the "fix" if any other than clearing them with my reader?

View attachment 3708185

As for fix…none is known.
-Toyota will gladly throw $750 charcoal canisters in, but no more than two or three weeks after I threw in a brand, new charcoal canister, my codes returned, and I went right back to clearing codes with an OBD2.

It’s a regular routine for me for 6+ years if not more… So much so that I permanently mounted a code reset device with an in-line power switch.

I’ve mentioned this before, but EVA codes can actually be cleared even while the car is on, running, and driving. No effect of clearing codes on the fly like that… At least for these gas related evap codes.
 
Awhile ago my GPS stopped working. It took me a few weeks to notice that the map in the nav screen showed me way far from where I really was. I guess it was using some prepackaged program that just tracked where the vehicle was going. I finally noticed the little gps notice was no longer showing in the upper left corner of the map screen. Not a big deal because my iPhone and dash am each have gps, but….has anyone had the same issue? I understand the gps unit is tucked away in the dash, but it looks like a hassle to get to. And even if I do, what then? I suspect it would be worthwhile to replace. Any ideas on how I can verify the problem and what to do about it?
 
As for fix…none is known.
-Toyota will gladly throw $750 charcoal canisters in, but no more than two or three weeks after I threw in a brand, new charcoal canister, my codes returned, and I went right back to clearing codes with an OBD2.

It’s a regular routine for me for 6+ years if not more… So much so that I permanently mounted a code reset device with an in-line power switch.

I’ve mentioned this before, but EVA codes can actually be cleared even while the car is on, running, and driving. No effect of clearing codes on the fly like that… At least for these gas related evap codes.
Thanks my friend. As you suggested before LCDC I made the tablet with the reader/monitor app a permanent fixture so when they popped up this past week on a trip it was easy peasy to reset.

I had same results when I changed canisters for the fuel smell...couple weeks and it was back.
 
Back to @MCtree’s question on range after fuel light comes on, there is a PID that provides gal/hr real time data on OBD2 reader. I have this on my OBD Fusion dashboard. It isn’t really useful because it varies a lot in real time. What would be useful is if it would integrate the data over time and provide total gallons burned. It is doing this when it calculates mpg but I do not see any OBD2 point that provides total gallons burned. Has anyone found such a point? My old Chevy Tahoe did this and it was super useful. I discovered I could do this on the Tahoe after running out of gas driving to work on day. Nothing like the walk of shame up the road carrying a gas can where your car has blocked an entire lane during rush hour. I’m beyond range anxiety. I have range PTSD.
 
Thanks my friend. As you suggested before LCDC I made the tablet with the reader/monitor app a permanent fixture so when they popped up this past week on a trip it was easy peasy to reset.

I had same results when I changed canisters for the fuel smell...couple weeks and it was back.
Same. I have OBD Fusion running on my Tesla head unit and permanently connected via USB OBD2 dongle. Very easy to scan and clear codes. Easy to do with any tablet or even just a phone.
 
Awhile ago my GPS stopped working. It took me a few weeks to notice that the map in the nav screen showed me way far from where I really was. I guess it was using some prepackaged program that just tracked where the vehicle was going. I finally noticed the little gps notice was no longer showing in the upper left corner of the map screen. Not a big deal because my iPhone and dash am each have gps, but….has anyone had the same issue? I understand the gps unit is tucked away in the dash, but it looks like a hassle to get to. And even if I do, what then? I suspect it would be worthwhile to replace. Any ideas on how I can verify the problem and what to do about it?
I have the same issue. But sadly/embarassingly, I never pursued it enough.
See here:
 
Back to @MCtree’s question on range after fuel light comes on, there is a PID that provides gal/hr real time data on OBD2 reader. I have this on my OBD Fusion dashboard. It isn’t really useful because it varies a lot in real time. What would be useful is if it would integrate the data over time and provide total gallons burned. It is doing this when it calculates mpg but I do not see any OBD2 point that provides total gallons burned. Has anyone found such a point? My old Chevy Tahoe did this and it was super useful. I discovered I could do this on the Tahoe after running out of gas driving to work on day. Nothing like the walk of shame up the road carrying a gas can where your car has blocked an entire lane during rush hour. I’m beyond range anxiety. I have range PTSD.
There are free apps where you can enter you vehicle’s mileage and then the amount of gas you just pumped at every fill-up. These apps calculate your MPG.
Wouldn’t that be the same?
I’ve been using an App called Road Trip LE for several years now.

And I feel for you in your PTSD. I can imagine how that would scar a person.
 
Do we know whether a code reset will zero out the fuel and spark trims?
 
Back to @MCtree’s question on range after fuel light comes on, there is a PID that provides gal/hr real time data on OBD2 reader. I have this on my OBD Fusion dashboard. It isn’t really useful because it varies a lot in real time. What would be useful is if it would integrate the data over time and provide total gallons burned. It is doing this when it calculates mpg but I do not see any OBD2 point that provides total gallons burned. Has anyone found such a point? My old Chevy Tahoe did this and it was super useful. I discovered I could do this on the Tahoe after running out of gas driving to work on day. Nothing like the walk of shame up the road carrying a gas can where your car has blocked an entire lane during rush hour. I’m beyond range anxiety. I have range PTSD.

The PID data is likely what the range-o-meter uses to compute remaining range. Likely based on injector duty cycle. Like you said, situational fuel use can vary a lot so it's a general reference at best. And it maybe skewed with tire size impacts.

The fuel light is keyed on fuel tank float sender level. So it's generally going to be a more accurate indicator of explicit fuel level at the point it comes on, to assess remaining range. Usually this is about 3.5 - 4G until stall. So 2-3G of range at your rigs current consumption is a good guess.
 
There are free apps where you can enter you vehicle’s mileage and then the amount of gas you just pumped at every fill-up. These apps calculate your MPG.
Wouldn’t that be the same?
I’ve been using an App called Road Trip LE for several years now.

And I feel for you in your PTSD. I can imagine how that would scar a person.
The math is straight forward. All you need is a calculator. I can reset the fuel economy "gauge" on OBD fusion when I fill up and also reset my trip OD. This gives me a fairly accurate mgp for the current tank. I have also adjusted the wheel speed for my tire diameter in OBD Fusion to account for my 34s and the mpg seems to be fairly accurate. Interestingly enough, this also seems to have fix the OEM mpg since last fill-up readout on the dash. So knowing my trip miles and the tank mpg at any point I can calculate they theoretical fuel burned and if I assume I filled to 24 gal, I can calculate how many gallons I have left. None of that is hard or really even takes much time to do. What it requires though is remembering to reset the trip OD. I just what the computer to do it for me and display on my dash or head unit screen and be available at a glance.

I have not explored this but I think OBD Fusion allows you to create custom PIDs that can do math using available OBD2 data points. If true, what I want can be done. I've thus far been too lazy to pursue it. Instead, I installed a 24gal LRA. Helps the range PTSD but now I worry about future Evap codes....
 
Helps the range PTSD but now I worry about future Evap codes....

1724428850937.png
 
On my 2016 LC, the Audio screen (the one with the radio presets) will eventually flip back to the Nav screen on it's own. I want to leave the radio presets up, because (a) my nav thinks I'm several miles from where i actually am and (b) pretty much don't need the nav regardless. Is there a setting for this or is it just how it works?
 
On my 2016 LC, the Audio screen (the one with the radio presets) will eventually flip back to the Nav screen on it's own. I want to leave the radio presets up, because (a) my nav thinks I'm several miles from where i actually am and (b) pretty much don't need the nav regardless. Is there a setting for this or is it just how it works?
Also curious as i have never been able to stick the audio screen.
 
Mine generally quotes 0 when the light turns on.
Mine came on today with 9 miles of range.
But I think that range calculation employs a MPG since the last fill-up, or something, and recently my MPG is 10mpg or so since it’s been short drives around town.

IMG_0971.jpeg
 
On my 2016 LC, the Audio screen (the one with the radio presets) will eventually flip back to the Nav screen on its own. I want to leave the radio presets up, because (a) my nav thinks I'm several miles from where i actually am and (b) pretty much don't need the nav regardless. Is there a setting for this or is it just how it works?
Answered my own question. Under Setup, if you scroll down there is an option for “auto screen change”. I turned it off and it works like I would expect. Note you must be stopped for the scroll function to work.
 
Awhile ago my GPS stopped working. It took me a few weeks to notice that the map in the nav screen showed me way far from where I really was. I guess it was using some prepackaged program that just tracked where the vehicle was going. I finally noticed the little gps notice was no longer showing in the upper left corner of the map screen. Not a big deal because my iPhone and dash am each have gps, but….has anyone had the same issue? I understand the gps unit is tucked away in the dash, but it looks like a hassle to get to. And even if I do, what then? I suspect it would be worthwhile to replace. Any ideas on how I can verify the problem and what to do about it?
YES! This happened to me on a recent trip to NC in June. GPS made an elliptical pattern about 100 mi west of our location. This lasted about an hour then it started tracking properly and has been fine since. I noticed the "GPS" letters blinking on and off. Is it the shark fin antenna? Something else? I assume that it will fail completely at some point. If/when that happens I'll probably velcro a tablet PC over the screen for nav and use the screen for the other functions as needed.:confused:
 

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