SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (37 Viewers)

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Talked to my friends tonight.
A rodent made a nest under the air box and utilized pieces of the wiring harness to make their cozy home.
 
Talked to my friends tonight.
A rodent made a nest under the air box and utilized pieces of the wiring harness to make their cozy home.
So, gremlins of a sort, but at least the flesh-and-bones kind, and not the esoteric kind. I would still look into ZP claibration for good measure.
 
What triggers the wheel speed sensor? Specifically, the driver's side sensor.
 
Whats going on on your drivers side?
The speed sensor is not reading the same as the other 3 according to Tech Stream and its causing both ABS and Traction control to trigger until it disables them. I replaced the sensor and swapped the harness between passenger/driver side and got the same results. I also pulled the axle back and cleaned the stub with some emery cloth and cleaned the housing up as well with no change. It feels like the ABS is actuating on the driver side front only.
 
The speed sensor is not reading the same as the other 3 according to Tech Stream and its causing both ABS and Traction control to trigger until it disables them. I replaced the sensor and swapped the harness between passenger/driver side and got the same results. I also pulled the axle back and cleaned the stub with some emery cloth and cleaned the housing up as well with no change. It feels like the ABS is actuating on the driver side front only.
Might want to start a new thread, or piggy back on another ABS sensor thread.

Probably need more details to t-shoot. When you said "got the same results", do you mean the problem moved from one side to the other when you moved the sensor and you still had issues, or that the problem didn't move from one side to the other and you still had issues?
 
The speed sensor is not reading the same as the other 3 according to Tech Stream and its causing both ABS and Traction control to trigger until it disables them. I replaced the sensor and swapped the harness between passenger/driver side and got the same results. I also pulled the axle back and cleaned the stub with some emery cloth and cleaned the housing up as well with no change. It feels like the ABS is actuating on the driver side front only.

There's a tone ring on the CV - it looks like an old school gear cog with teeth every few millimeters. The sensor detects each one of those teeth as they pass by it. This ring is generally well protected but damage can occur.
 
Might want to start a new thread, or piggy back on another ABS sensor thread.

Probably need more details to t-shoot. When you said "got the same results", do you mean the problem moved from one side to the other when you moved the sensor and you still had issues, or that the problem didn't move from one side to the other and you still had issues?
Fair enough, I've searched without much luck. I'm still curious about what triggers the sensor.

The problem stays at the same wheel and has the same fault.
 
There's a tone ring on the CV - it looks like an old school gear cog with teeth every few millimeters. The sensor detects each one of those teeth as they pass by it. This ring is generally well protected but damage can occur.
Thats what I was expecting but mine looks exactly like this when I pulled it out, and the sensor is notched where the CV would come in contact with it.
1684422527543.png
 
Thats what I was expecting but mine looks exactly like this when I pulled it out, and the sensor is notched where the CV would come in contact with it.
View attachment 3326059

If no codes, my poor guess would be the cv. I would still check the mount position of the sensor and see if things got hit or bent.
I am not sure what the best route would be here. If the sensors or anything up the chain were at fault, i would expect a code.
 
If no codes, my poor guess would be the cv. I would still check the mount position of the sensor and see if things got hit or bent.
I am not sure what the best route would be here. If the sensors or anything up the chain were at fault, i would expect a code.
I do get a code. Its C0205 for the FL speed sensor. I also get the below codes and maybe I'm wrong, but I don't think they would affect the abs/traction on that wheel.
1684431627270.png
 
I do get a code. Its C0205 for the FL speed sensor. I also get the below codes and maybe I'm wrong, but I don't think they would affect the abs/traction on that wheel.
View attachment 3326146

Hmmm , thinking outside the box… is your caliper stuck or dragging?
Also the code returns on clear im assuming.
 
I do get a code. Its C0205 for the FL speed sensor. I also get the below codes and maybe I'm wrong, but I don't think they would affect the abs/traction on that wheel.
View attachment 3326146

Hmmm , thinking outside the box… is your caliper stuck or dragging?
Also the code returns on clear im assuming.
Oh, good thought. I replaced the brake pads as I was doing the lift and it happened both before and after the new pads. That doesn't mean I don't have a piston that's hanging up in the caliper.
Yeah, same codes return after clearing.
 
Make sure the speed sensor itself is clean. If there is just a little bit of grease on it, it will throw a code.
 
My SQOD ultimately involves KDSS. I finally got around to getting Firestone 4164 airbags on my 2018 LC 4/27/2023. I waited to post so that I could say the bags are holding air like they should. Suspension is 100% stock otherwise. The mechanic that installed the airbags did not do anything with KDSS. The heights measured from center wheel to fender with no cargo are as follows:
4/26/2023 before airbags, gas tank 1/2 full, 22354 mi5/18/2023 after airbags (8 psi), gas tank full, 22411 mi
FL 19 1/2
FR 20 1/8
RL 21
RR 20 3/4
FL19 3/4
FR 20
RL 21 3/4
RR 21 1/4

These values look OK to me. I don’t mind the slight rake and the truck drives like a dream; much less “floatey boatey”. When loaded I’m assuming it will level out and if it sags then add more air!

I’m about ¾ inch raised in the rear and TOYOTA recommends re-balancing KDSS after any suspension changes. But it seems like it ain’t broke and if it ain’t broke don’t fix it LOL.

So, here’s the SQOD:

Do I, or do I not, open the KDSS valves and take the vehicle for a spin to reset the KDSS system?
Thanks in advance!!!

Valves and 30 psi pump:
20230518_182242s.jpg
 
My SQOD ultimately involves KDSS. I finally got around to getting Firestone 4164 airbags on my 2018 LC 4/27/2023. I waited to post so that I could say the bags are holding air like they should. Suspension is 100% stock otherwise. The mechanic that installed the airbags did not do anything with KDSS. The heights measured from center wheel to fender with no cargo are as follows:
4/26/2023 before airbags, gas tank 1/2 full, 22354 mi5/18/2023 after airbags (8 psi), gas tank full, 22411 mi
FL 19 1/2
FR 20 1/8
RL 21
RR 20 3/4
FL19 3/4
FR 20
RL 21 3/4
RR 21 1/4

These values look OK to me. I don’t mind the slight rake and the truck drives like a dream; much less “floatey boatey”. When loaded I’m assuming it will level out and if it sags then add more air!

I’m about ¾ inch raised in the rear and TOYOTA recommends re-balancing KDSS after any suspension changes. But it seems like it ain’t broke and if it ain’t broke don’t fix it LOL.

So, here’s the SQOD:

Do I, or do I not, open the KDSS valves and take the vehicle for a spin to reset the KDSS system?
Thanks in advance!!!

Valves and 30 psi pump:
View attachment 3326393
If you know you can turn the kdss valves, I’d open 2 turns and then close them. I also put marine grease on my screws each fall to keep them from rusting over the winter

If you can’t open them I wouldn’t worry. More than likely it won’t matter as the airbags have very little impact on the height
 
My SQOD ultimately involves KDSS. I finally got around to getting Firestone 4164 airbags on my 2018 LC 4/27/2023. I waited to post so that I could say the bags are holding air like they should. Suspension is 100% stock otherwise. The mechanic that installed the airbags did not do anything with KDSS. The heights measured from center wheel to fender with no cargo are as follows:
4/26/2023 before airbags, gas tank 1/2 full, 22354 mi5/18/2023 after airbags (8 psi), gas tank full, 22411 mi
FL 19 1/2
FR 20 1/8
RL 21
RR 20 3/4
FL19 3/4
FR 20
RL 21 3/4
RR 21 1/4

These values look OK to me. I don’t mind the slight rake and the truck drives like a dream; much less “floatey boatey”. When loaded I’m assuming it will level out and if it sags then add more air!

I’m about ¾ inch raised in the rear and TOYOTA recommends re-balancing KDSS after any suspension changes. But it seems like it ain’t broke and if it ain’t broke don’t fix it LOL.

So, here’s the SQOD:

Do I, or do I not, open the KDSS valves and take the vehicle for a spin to reset the KDSS system?
Thanks in advance!!!

Valves and 30 psi pump:
View attachment 3326393

I would recommend no.

Consider - when a car is loaded for a trip, it will squat. There's no expected procedure to re-level KDSS in that scenario. The system will re-normalize on its own.

Opening the valves is to rapidly equalize the circuits when lifting. It can do that slowly on its own.
 
If you know you can turn the kdss valves, I’d open 2 turns and then close them. I also put marine grease on my screws each fall to keep them from rusting over the winter

If you can’t open them I wouldn’t worry. More than likely it won’t matter as the airbags have very little impact on the height
The valves turn fine thanks to the info. I got from this board. My 2018 LC was a very clean dealer demonstrator leftover which no one wanted. I got it Nov 2019 with 6300 mi. I immediately slathered it with red & tacky grease and fluid film. Early spring 2020 I got the entire truck treated with fluid film and do so every November. There's zero rust on my LC thanks to people like you posting on this board!!!

So open them 2 turns (I've heard it's 3 elsewhere on here) and wait a bit and
re-tighten just sitting level in the garage?
-or-
take it for a spin around the block and re-tighten?
 
I would recommend no.

Consider - when a car is loaded for a trip, it will squat. There's no expected procedure to re-level KDSS in that scenario. The system will re-normalize on its own.

Opening the valves is to rapidly equalize the circuits when lifting. It can do that slowly on its own.
Thanks for the reply!
This is where I was leaning but the decision was based on fear and a "first do no harm" theory of life LOL. The 3/4 in lift on the rear isn't that much and I expect it to do as you say with load.

I've looked at the KDSS plumbing diagrams. But I'm a little confused. How can the 2 circuits equalize across the system with the valves closed? Do you mean each separate circuit will balance out? I guess I never figured out the scenarios when opening the KDSS valves is really necessary.
 
The valves turn fine thanks to the info. I got from this board. My 2018 LC was a very clean dealer demonstrator leftover which no one wanted. I got it Nov 2019 with 6300 mi. I immediately slathered it with red & tacky grease and fluid film. Early spring 2020 I got the entire truck treated with fluid film and do so every November. There's zero rust on my LC thanks to people like you posting on this board!!!

So open them 2 turns (I've heard it's 3 elsewhere on here) and wait a bit and
re-tighten just sitting level in the garage?
-or-
take it for a spin around the block and re-tighten?

3 is white knuckle mode. No more than 3 ever.
 

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