SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (13 Viewers)

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Stop by Discount tire, they'll reflash the pressure sensors au-gratis and tip the guy that helps you.
 
It could be that much, or it also couldn't... IYCMD
I had to google that. “If you catch my drift.”

Do you have access to illicit and lower cost techstreams?
Nudge nudge, wink wink. Say no more, say no more.
 
Stop by Discount tire, they'll reflash the pressure sensors au-gratis and tip the guy that helps you.
This is good to know.
I wish I had started with them in this entire ordeal. I got the feeling the guys at Firestone hardly knew how to use a techstream.
 
entering 1 or 5 id takes incrementally more time, maybe 2 min per id once connected
 
I had to google that. “If you catch my drift.”

Do you have access to illicit and lower cost techstreams?
Nudge nudge, wink wink. Say no more, say no more.
search the forum
 
search the forum
Ah… found it (apparently it’s concurrent to this discussion!)
Thanks.

As a spin-off to this discussion:
I will soon have 5 Blizzaks with only 10k miles on them (one with no miles on it). They are in good shape. 275/65r18 (fits stock with no rubbing)
Does anybody want them? Free!
I don’t have a great place to store them.

Catch is that they are in the Houston area.
 
When y'all make custom brackets to hold random things out of sight around the frame / engine bay / grille area / etc, what material and what thickness do you normally use? Aluminum is nice because it won't rust, but it can also crack and fail from repeated vibrations (requiring thicker stock to start with). Is 1/16" sufficient thickness for aluminum where it will be rigid & hold it's shape? What about for steel?

For light weight I use 1/8th aluminum. 1/16th is just too weak I find. Weight savings and space savings not worth it. Steel for more complex shapes/brackets as it’s easier to bend/cut/weld I find.
 
When y'all make custom brackets to hold random things out of sight around the frame / engine bay / grille area / etc, what material and what thickness do you normally use? Aluminum is nice because it won't rust, but it can also crack and fail from repeated vibrations (requiring thicker stock to start with). Is 1/16" sufficient thickness for aluminum where it will be rigid & hold it's shape? What about for steel?
Not a great answer, but I use whatever I have handy. 1/8" mostly. When I am at the local metal yard, I dig through their scrap piles and buy off cuts by the pound for random stuff like this. Aluminum is nice because you can cut it with woodworking tools (like the jigsaw). I've also had good luck with a bender that I got from eastwood several years ago that is used with a hydraulic press. It is perfect for small brackets (not as handy as a box brake with removable fingers, but also nowhere near as costly).
 
Carista question.

I have Carista for a month while I change my TPMS sensors back to my summer tires. Any suggestions on other customizations I can use the app for? I have a 2014 US spec model.

Cheers!
 
Yet another TPMS question...
So there are 5 slots for TPMS ID's on a 200, got that.
Is there a slot # dedicated to each tire position?
If not, then how does the car figure out what TPMS ID goes with what tire? :confused:
  • According to the owner's manual you use the reset button following a tire rotation however I never saw any description of how the electronics made the ID/Tire association. Apologies if this has been answered elsewhere, I just couldn't find it.
 
Random occurrence: while we'd be driving in the snow for a bit, using 4-Lo and higher RPMs, I started to smell something that I thought was tire rubber. Then I saw smoke coming from under the hood. When I opened it, I saw it was coming from the firewall, on the passenger side of the block, just inboard from the inlet/outlet heater hoses. It was glowing hot and the insulation was smoking a bit. It was close enough to the heater hoses so I thought that may have something to do with it so I let it cool off then ran with no heat and no rear heat the rest of the trip with no issues. I just had the hose assemblies replaced and coolant flushed in November last year. My OBD scanner showed no issues and normal temps.
Is there a computer or wiring or something that has a propensity to get too hot around that area? Have the coolant pipes been known to do that? I didn't get any pictures unfortunately.
If you got your exhaust hot enough to be glowing (high RPMs and high load for extended time will do that) it may not translate to higher engine temps ("engine" temp is actually engine coolant temp as I'm sure you're aware) as long as your cooling system is performing as it should. As far as damage to other parts in the vicinity of the glowing exhaust, I'd be weary and cautious and check things over very carefully. My logical half is saying that Koyari-san engineered the Cruiser to handle conditions like this with heat shields and high temp components, but it still makes my other half nervous - especially if you could smell hot rubber...

On a more serious note, was the snow wheeling fun? I love driving my Cruisers in the snow...
 
Here's my SQOD:

This pocket in the fender collected a sizeable load of gravel during a very mild off-road excursion. What do you do to stop it? Or just not worry about it?


PXL-20230324-175449105.jpg
 
Here's my SQOD:

This pocket in the fender collected a sizeable load of gravel during a very mild off-road excursion. What do you do to stop it? Or just not worry about it?


PXL-20230324-175449105.jpg
Suffer with it. Rinse it as often as possible with a pressurized sprayer. This same pocket collected crap on my 100 rotted it out.
 
Here's my SQOD:

This pocket in the fender collected a sizeable load of gravel during a very mild off-road excursion. What do you do to stop it? Or just not worry about it?


PXL-20230324-175449105.jpg

Ive been hoarding some foam for that gap for a hot minute.
 
Ive been hoarding some foam for that gap for a hot minute.
If your talking about squirting spray foam in there, do NOT do this. That stuff is caustic and will eat the paint and undercoat off and promote corrosion.
 
If your talking about squirting spray foam in there, do NOT do this. That stuff is caustic and will eat the paint and undercoat off and promote corrosion.

Thanks for the lookout but hell nah Lol.

I have several types of foam, styrofoam, some plastic gun case style foam, and some padding style foam. None of which i have thought much about yet. But I’ve been saving some up for that and will probably hot knife cut it and just slip it in. That gap collects everything and im not sure what kind of testing was done but that is not it.
 
Here's my SQOD:

This pocket in the fender collected a sizeable load of gravel during a very mild off-road excursion. What do you do to stop it? Or just not worry about it?


PXL-20230324-175449105.jpg

I would suggest that any one with a rock collection like that one take a look from the under side below the pocket were the plastic turns 90 deg and heads forward. There is a gap between the plastic and sheet metal going forward. The gap acts like a rock collector and lets the sand and fine gold fall through. Take a small flat screwdriver with you and dislodge the rocks that haven't fallen through before they wear through the paint. Apply you favorite rust inhibitor if needed. I use LPS3.
 
;) Ya... Really looking for something STICKY (no slip) that I can throw in drawers in the back, but that are big and absolutely solid. I know... you can grab rocks, wood, spare tire, etc. but in a rocky place, stuff can slip and move. I tend to travel alone a lot, and would be nice to KNOW that nothing is gonna move whilst I'm the gut-poppin squish-zone (under me rig!).

So far, I think these may be the thing:

Wheel Chocks - Laminated, 8 x 8 x 8" H-1591 - Uline

Laminated into a stack of rubber, rather than the injected-rubber nasty stuff that seems to all come from China...
Heck... Just walk into Harbor Freight. That nasty smell? Chocks, man. Chocks.

Did you ever find wheel chocks that don't stink? Did you try out the laminated ones? I was thinking of trying these:

 
We used to use ones like these on the fire trucks. They definitely work, but are bulky:


Something more like this style used for small planes is intriguing to me:


I only have crappy plastic RV chocks that work okay, but I don't feel like they're very trustworthy:

Camco RV Wheel Chock | Features a Heavy-Duty Durable Hard Plastic Construction and Fits Tires Up to 26-Inches (44414) https://a.co/d/cam2Qt2

The thin folding metal ones you get with a cheap jack DO NOT STOP or even slow a 200. Pancake city...
 
We used to use ones like these on the fire trucks. They definitely work, but are bulky:


Something more like this style used for small planes is intriguing to me:


I only have crappy plastic RV chocks that work okay, but I don't feel like they're very trustworthy:

Camco RV Wheel Chock | Features a Heavy-Duty Durable Hard Plastic Construction and Fits Tires Up to 26-Inches (44414) https://a.co/d/cam2Qt2

The thin folding metal ones you get with a cheap jack DO NOT STOP or even slow a 200. Pancake city...

Interesting, those small aircraft ones might work. I think this is the exact same one, but on Amazon:
 

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