Stop by Discount tire, they'll reflash the pressure sensors au-gratis and tip the guy that helps you.
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I had to google that. “If you catch my drift.”It could be that much, or it also couldn't... IYCMD
This is good to know.Stop by Discount tire, they'll reflash the pressure sensors au-gratis and tip the guy that helps you.
search the forumI had to google that. “If you catch my drift.”
Do you have access to illicit and lower cost techstreams?
Nudge nudge, wink wink. Say no more, say no more.
Ah… found it (apparently it’s concurrent to this discussion!)search the forum
When y'all make custom brackets to hold random things out of sight around the frame / engine bay / grille area / etc, what material and what thickness do you normally use? Aluminum is nice because it won't rust, but it can also crack and fail from repeated vibrations (requiring thicker stock to start with). Is 1/16" sufficient thickness for aluminum where it will be rigid & hold it's shape? What about for steel?
Not a great answer, but I use whatever I have handy. 1/8" mostly. When I am at the local metal yard, I dig through their scrap piles and buy off cuts by the pound for random stuff like this. Aluminum is nice because you can cut it with woodworking tools (like the jigsaw). I've also had good luck with a bender that I got from eastwood several years ago that is used with a hydraulic press. It is perfect for small brackets (not as handy as a box brake with removable fingers, but also nowhere near as costly).When y'all make custom brackets to hold random things out of sight around the frame / engine bay / grille area / etc, what material and what thickness do you normally use? Aluminum is nice because it won't rust, but it can also crack and fail from repeated vibrations (requiring thicker stock to start with). Is 1/16" sufficient thickness for aluminum where it will be rigid & hold it's shape? What about for steel?
If you got your exhaust hot enough to be glowing (high RPMs and high load for extended time will do that) it may not translate to higher engine temps ("engine" temp is actually engine coolant temp as I'm sure you're aware) as long as your cooling system is performing as it should. As far as damage to other parts in the vicinity of the glowing exhaust, I'd be weary and cautious and check things over very carefully. My logical half is saying that Koyari-san engineered the Cruiser to handle conditions like this with heat shields and high temp components, but it still makes my other half nervous - especially if you could smell hot rubber...Random occurrence: while we'd be driving in the snow for a bit, using 4-Lo and higher RPMs, I started to smell something that I thought was tire rubber. Then I saw smoke coming from under the hood. When I opened it, I saw it was coming from the firewall, on the passenger side of the block, just inboard from the inlet/outlet heater hoses. It was glowing hot and the insulation was smoking a bit. It was close enough to the heater hoses so I thought that may have something to do with it so I let it cool off then ran with no heat and no rear heat the rest of the trip with no issues. I just had the hose assemblies replaced and coolant flushed in November last year. My OBD scanner showed no issues and normal temps.
Is there a computer or wiring or something that has a propensity to get too hot around that area? Have the coolant pipes been known to do that? I didn't get any pictures unfortunately.
Suffer with it. Rinse it as often as possible with a pressurized sprayer. This same pocket collected crap on my 100 rotted it out.Here's my SQOD:
This pocket in the fender collected a sizeable load of gravel during a very mild off-road excursion. What do you do to stop it? Or just not worry about it?
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Here's my SQOD:
This pocket in the fender collected a sizeable load of gravel during a very mild off-road excursion. What do you do to stop it? Or just not worry about it?
![]()
If your talking about squirting spray foam in there, do NOT do this. That stuff is caustic and will eat the paint and undercoat off and promote corrosion.Ive been hoarding some foam for that gap for a hot minute.
If your talking about squirting spray foam in there, do NOT do this. That stuff is caustic and will eat the paint and undercoat off and promote corrosion.
Here's my SQOD:
This pocket in the fender collected a sizeable load of gravel during a very mild off-road excursion. What do you do to stop it? Or just not worry about it?
![]()
Ya... Really looking for something STICKY (no slip) that I can throw in drawers in the back, but that are big and absolutely solid. I know... you can grab rocks, wood, spare tire, etc. but in a rocky place, stuff can slip and move. I tend to travel alone a lot, and would be nice to KNOW that nothing is gonna move whilst I'm the gut-poppin squish-zone (under me rig!).
So far, I think these may be the thing:
Wheel Chocks - Laminated, 8 x 8 x 8" H-1591 - Uline
Laminated into a stack of rubber, rather than the injected-rubber nasty stuff that seems to all come from China...
Heck... Just walk into Harbor Freight. That nasty smell? Chocks, man. Chocks.
We used to use ones like these on the fire trucks. They definitely work, but are bulky:
Something more like this style used for small planes is intriguing to me:
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Rubber Wheel Chocks
These heavy-duty chocks are great for twins and light jets. Made from recycled rubber, these beefy chocks weigh over 10 pounds.www.sportys.com
I only have crappy plastic RV chocks that work okay, but I don't feel like they're very trustworthy:
Camco RV Wheel Chock | Features a Heavy-Duty Durable Hard Plastic Construction and Fits Tires Up to 26-Inches (44414) https://a.co/d/cam2Qt2
The thin folding metal ones you get with a cheap jack DO NOT STOP or even slow a 200. Pancake city...