I took these photos a long time ago, might not be the best angles. My 2018 LC appears to have 1, not 2 in the location shown in your diagram.
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (128 Viewers)
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I took these photos a long time ago, might not be the best angles. My 2018 LC appears to have 1, not 2 in the location shown in your diagram.
It'll make all the difference. I've tweaked my suspension multiple times and it's affecting the stability and traction control each time. How more people are not talking about it, I'm not sure. But I know I drive harder than most and it's easy to push the limits of the truck. Calibration makes a huge difference off-road on low traction surfaces.
Pretty sure this is it. IMO, ABS senors being bad don't manifest like this and would cause CELS as the ABS systems are always referencing the sensors.
Mine has 2, so I guess it was irrelevant anyway!
I'd say it isn't irrelevant. What year is your truck?
Edit: I see it now. Interesting that your '17 and my '17 are...different.
Two stupid questions for you guys and gals this morning.
1. Why is there an orange box around the driver front tire pressure in the picture below? If I’m below the setting, why wouldn’t it be around the 28 and 29 too?
2. @gaijin, our resident pressure expert, says that I should have 33psi in these Blizzaks. (275/65r18 on a 2021 heritage). It’s 10 degrees here this morning and I know I’ll get up to the 33psi during freeway driving. But would you guys air up a bit?
1. Why is there an orange box around the driver front tire pressure in the picture below? If I’m below the setting, why wouldn’t it be around the 28 and 29 too?
2. @gaijin, our resident pressure expert, says that I should have 33psi in these Blizzaks. (275/65r18 on a 2021 heritage). It’s 10 degrees here this morning and I know I’ll get up to the 33psi during freeway driving. But would you guys air up a bit?
gaijin
GOLD Star
Don't kno why the orange box, but as far as #2 goes:
RCTIP means Recommended COLD Tire Pressure. That means the tire pressure when the tire is cold - not driven for at least 4 hours and at ambient temperature.
So, yes, you should air up to your RCTIP while the tires are cold.
Here's a Toyota TSB you might find helpful:
HTH
That tire was probably at ~38PSI when the TPMS was last reset while the others were probably at 33PSI. Was it your spare rotated in by chance? The TPMS will highlight a tire that is 20 or 25% less than whatever pressure it was at when last reset. The TPMS doesn't know your tires should be at 33psi, it only knows "this tire has lost 25% of its air pressure since I was last reset, so something might be wrong".
Inflate your tires to 33 PSI (or whatever your correct pressure is), then hold the TPMS reset button under the dash a few seconds until the system resets the pressures.
Side note for those who run low pressures offroad on multi-day trips, I will reset my TPMS after deflating so that I don't constantly see the "low pressure" warning, and so if the warning does come on I know it's because I tore a tire. I then just reset it again when I air up later.
Exactly what I was thinking too on the orange light.
One thing to note when resetting the system when aired-down - I don't think the system can be reset with pressures below a certain threshold (25psi maybe?) So, depending on what you air down to, it might not be an effective method to clear the lights/warnings. I know when I air down to 18-20 psi the system will not reset and be happy with the tires that low (mine is an '08 FWIW, and the newer systems may be different?)
It "worked" for me, but it's possible when I reset below 25psi (or whatever the lower threshold is) the system just reset to the lower limit, and I was within the 25% margin as I was running White Rim for 2 days so it just didn't light up.
Asking for a friend. When traveling at above highway speeds in a 2016 LC 200, there tends to be a hesitation or stall around 89mph with a noticeable dip in the front end for a moment. Anybody knows what that is? Speed limiter?
Malfunctioning Flux Capacitor?
ask your friend to see if the same behaviour happens in another gear
It's usually in D and left to the A/T to figure it out. It has been regeared to 4.88's in the diffs, not sure if that affects the top end.
Flux Capacitor in the 200 Series is set at 94 mph...
The 4.88 is not a combination that's used in many 2016+ regears as it's such a dramatic ratio change. I suspect you might indeed be hitting a top speed limiter as governed by the transmission output shaft speed.
Stock LCs have a top speed limit of 130mph. A 4.88 regeared from 3.307 is a 1.47 change. 130mph / 1.47 = 88.4MPH. Suspiciously close to your 89mph flux capacitor issue.
4th gen Tacomas experience this too when re-gearing aggressively to a 5.29 (from 3.9). Top speed of 113mph drops to 83mph.
A 2016+ LC should generally be regeared to 3.9s.
I picked up my 2008 200 a couple of months ago and I have one nagging question - is it me, or is the stock sound system terrible? The radio volume is so low, that when it is at Max you can hold a normal conversation without having to raise your voice. Or, as one other unresolved thread I found put it, with the windows down there is no chance you will hear the audio. I disabled all DSP functions, no adaptive sound setting is active, and made sure the treble/mid/bass weren't crazy.
I thought perhaps the amplifier might be to blame, so I found a company that offers a rebuild service. Original Car Audio (cd4car.com) provided great service, they were very communicative and worked quickly. It was only about 10 days from when I dropped my amp off at UPS to when I had it back at my doorstep.
However, I reinstalled it yesterday and the audio levels are still awful. Is this normal? Is my head unit bad? Surely if the speakers were to blame they would at least be loud. Anyone have any advice? I've found only one thread on the forum where someone described the same symptoms.
I thought perhaps the amplifier might be to blame, so I found a company that offers a rebuild service. Original Car Audio (cd4car.com) provided great service, they were very communicative and worked quickly. It was only about 10 days from when I dropped my amp off at UPS to when I had it back at my doorstep.
However, I reinstalled it yesterday and the audio levels are still awful. Is this normal? Is my head unit bad? Surely if the speakers were to blame they would at least be loud. Anyone have any advice? I've found only one thread on the forum where someone described the same symptoms.
Not normal. The stock system isn't going to make an audiophile fall in love, but it's not quiet. You've ruled out the amp it sounds like, and if you're certain it's not a setting somewhere, it's probably time to chase wires and check speaker impedance.
Is it just on the radio (AM/FM) setting, or is it quiet with any audio source? If just the radio, it could be an antenna issue.
TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
Is it the same for all inputs? If its streaming from your phone, you may just need to increase the volume setting on your phone, but if FM is also quiet, then you have a problem. My FM input is stupid loud.
