That’s what I was thinking, those are actually 22’s
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (9 Viewers)
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Had both rear wheels up today. Car off and in park. I could rotate the wheels and they went counter rotation. The rear driveshaft didn't move.
Then I locked my rear elocker (heard solenoid) They continued to counter rotate, driveshaft still isn't moving? Is the elocker not functioning?
Supposed to rotate same way when locked, right? I spun one rim several full rotations to be sure it had a chance to engage.
What stupid thing have I missed?
Then I locked my rear elocker (heard solenoid) They continued to counter rotate, driveshaft still isn't moving? Is the elocker not functioning?
Supposed to rotate same way when locked, right? I spun one rim several full rotations to be sure it had a chance to engage.
What stupid thing have I missed?
indycole
GOLD Star
Maybe a silly idea but did you rotate the tires enough? It feels like it takes a half turn at least to engage my e-lockers.
I went around a couple times in both directions. I suspect my elocker isn’t engaging. I’ll reverse the wires and try it again. Not sure why the solenoid is engaging but not the locker. I can hear it click on and off. The on is louder than off.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Eaton e-lockers need both tires to rotate a half revolution to create enough force to push the locking ring into engagement.
So it would be pretty tough to replicate this up on a lift with human power.
Best test, lock the diff on pavement and try to slightly turn, the second you feel a bit of bind, drive strait and unlock the diff. If you feel the bind, lockers working as normal. Feel like you can turn normal, power is not flowing to the diff.
So it would be pretty tough to replicate this up on a lift with human power.
Best test, lock the diff on pavement and try to slightly turn, the second you feel a bit of bind, drive strait and unlock the diff. If you feel the bind, lockers working as normal. Feel like you can turn normal, power is not flowing to the diff.
A full set of ARB drawers really weigh 180 lbs (81kg)?
Any idea how much a set of 3rd row seats weigh?
Any idea how much a set of 3rd row seats weigh?
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Three days before a 3 day overland trip and I have a worrying front end creak/pop on drivers side. Fearing the CV issues, but for now, noticed the lower control arm (LCA) is moving when turning the wheel. This might be source of the metal rubbing sound.
Few questions:
1) Is any moment acceptable between the lower control arm and frame? In the pic you can see the difference between full tilt left versus right of the steering. I tightened the cam nut a bit, but I don’t have a torque wench for 207 ft lb… I did not want to break the bolt. The Toyota service manual -> Front Lower Suspension Arm > Installation, step 13 states tighten bolt and nut if lower sub-assembly to 207 ft lb. After tightening, I have less movement but the same creaking.
2) Has anyone had their LCA bushings fail?
3) Any other quick tips on ruling out CV issue. I did jack up the front and turn the wheel while in Park. No noticeable grinding.
4) Also, is it normal of the upper CV (joint to differential) to move in and out. (C in pic) I could have sworn I saw this move while my son was turning the wheel back and forth. But not 100% sure.
I am not 100% sure if the sound is coming from the CV or the Lower Control Arm. Occasionally it sounds like it is ehco’ing off the skid plates (budbuilt) and coming from below the cab. I get the sound when turning the wheel and sometimes on suspension compression. (eg. taping the brakes) I don’t hear anything at speed, but most likely the road noise is just drowning it out. I have not yet noticed a rhythm to the noise (ie wheel/axle/cv spinning) But maybe my brain is blocking out the CV possibility.
2014 LC200 with ToughDog suspension. About 2.5in of lift. Very light built with only sliders and ALU skid plats. No Diff drop. About 6000 miles on the suspension. Only 46K on the truck. I still have stock Upper Control Arms. Still drives straight with what I think is acceptable tire wear. I will most likely have an aftermarket Upper Control Arm put on asap, but it's unlikely I can find anyone to do that or CV replace work in the next three days, so I feel that If I can rule out CV issues, I will continue with the trip. Plus buy a bigger torque wrench and tighten more, provided it's not the supposed to move and the bushings are not shot. Which is main question above.
Thanks,
Few questions:
1) Is any moment acceptable between the lower control arm and frame? In the pic you can see the difference between full tilt left versus right of the steering. I tightened the cam nut a bit, but I don’t have a torque wench for 207 ft lb… I did not want to break the bolt. The Toyota service manual -> Front Lower Suspension Arm > Installation, step 13 states tighten bolt and nut if lower sub-assembly to 207 ft lb. After tightening, I have less movement but the same creaking.
2) Has anyone had their LCA bushings fail?
3) Any other quick tips on ruling out CV issue. I did jack up the front and turn the wheel while in Park. No noticeable grinding.
4) Also, is it normal of the upper CV (joint to differential) to move in and out. (C in pic) I could have sworn I saw this move while my son was turning the wheel back and forth. But not 100% sure.
I am not 100% sure if the sound is coming from the CV or the Lower Control Arm. Occasionally it sounds like it is ehco’ing off the skid plates (budbuilt) and coming from below the cab. I get the sound when turning the wheel and sometimes on suspension compression. (eg. taping the brakes) I don’t hear anything at speed, but most likely the road noise is just drowning it out. I have not yet noticed a rhythm to the noise (ie wheel/axle/cv spinning) But maybe my brain is blocking out the CV possibility.
2014 LC200 with ToughDog suspension. About 2.5in of lift. Very light built with only sliders and ALU skid plats. No Diff drop. About 6000 miles on the suspension. Only 46K on the truck. I still have stock Upper Control Arms. Still drives straight with what I think is acceptable tire wear. I will most likely have an aftermarket Upper Control Arm put on asap, but it's unlikely I can find anyone to do that or CV replace work in the next three days, so I feel that If I can rule out CV issues, I will continue with the trip. Plus buy a bigger torque wrench and tighten more, provided it's not the supposed to move and the bushings are not shot. Which is main question above.
Thanks,
I weighed my electric 2013 LX seats a while back. I forget the exact number but I think it was 112 or 115lbs for the pair so high 50’s per seat. I stood on a bathroom scale with and without a seat in my arms so consider that number better than a WAG but not super-accurate.
I see you have an LC vs LX and I know that’s not apples to apples but it’ll give you a place to start.
Markuson
SILVER Star
That sounds about right.
That’s why even ARB’s & other drawer systems really aren’t such a bad weight proposition.
Removing the second row (if you can) is also a massive weight savings. I should weigh the 60% side of my row 2. That thing is an awkward beast!
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Foot pounds are literally that. Get your breaker bar and a cheater for it. Get an object of known mass, like yourself. Figure out what value times the mass equals 207. Make a mArk that many feet out on the cheater bar. Stand on it at the mark (don’t bounce) and you have tightened to torque.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Didn’t know that calculation. Thx!
Thanks for the formula and response. Based on the location of the nut, I would need to tip the truck on it’s side, so i’ll Use it another day. I needed a justification to buy a good quality torque wench with greater range. So now is the time. I am taking it in to local mechanic in the morning to get their assessment.
We should start up the Seattle thread again and plan an event for end of Sept.
We should start up the Seattle thread again and plan an event for end of Sept.
afgman786
SILVER Star
Had HVAC change airflow direction the other day and heard a long creaking noise as if it was struggling to redirect to the selected position..
Found a thread on replacing the blower, don't believe it's the blower since everything works fine and only have this noise when redirecting. Is it as serious as servo going bad? Would I be able to do this fix myself with whatever it is?
Found a thread on replacing the blower, don't believe it's the blower since everything works fine and only have this noise when redirecting. Is it as serious as servo going bad? Would I be able to do this fix myself with whatever it is?
Locking is confirmed. Just needed to be moving. It's a very positive lock. . .
What is the size of the Drvie Axle (CV)/Hub nut? I know it's 35mm on 4Runners and FJs, but I'm unsure about the 200.
Since there is no change in LC for 2020, how many people in here beside me are ordering Land Rover Defender 2020?
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It could also be a an issue with the tie rod ends. If you are hearing a "popping" noise when turning, especially close to full lock, the tie rods could be worn. The outer TREs are pretty easy, but inners (if necessary) are harder to get to. Need a special TRE wrench (could probably borrow from local Auto parts store).
You might have some issues with the 305 part, sidewall rubbing on the sway bars.
Otherwise, take a look at the Tire database (sticky). I know you can filter by width and sidewall # and rim size. If that particular combo doesn't show up, you should be able to sort by diameter to see if something close worked for some one with similar (i.e., otherwise stock) setup.
HTH
Tommy Dwyer
SILVER Star
What’s a good reliable hitch link that’s not crazy money? While the Factor 55 is a quality product, and looks great, I’m having a little trouble dropping $80 on one.....looking for quality alternatives 
