SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (4 Viewers)

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‘21 MY

I need “explain like I’m 5 and suffer from electrical related repair anxiety” help wiring this Redarc battery volt gauge to a dimmer wire. Gauge has been installed and operating just fine for a couple years now but we rarely drive at night… but when we do this gauge is bright AF and after some digging around behind the dash on a unrelated project I noticed the wire to dim the gauge is not connected.

What wire should I be looking for and what’s a good less invasive way to do this so my wife won’t be blinded anymore.

Wire in red square in pic below.

IMG_2479.jpeg
 
‘21 MY

I need “explain like I’m 5 and suffer from electrical related repair anxiety” help wiring this Redarc battery volt gauge to a dimmer wire. Gauge has been installed and operating just fine for a couple years now but we rarely drive at night… but when we do this gauge is bright AF and after some digging around behind the dash on a unrelated project I noticed the wire to dim the gauge is not connected.

What wire should I be looking for and what’s a good less invasive way to do this so my wife won’t be blinded anymore.

Wire in red square in pic below.

View attachment 3825958
I've never wired anything like this in a 200. But I believe most any switch in the truck that has a light that dims on it has a dimmer control wire that goes back through the body control ecu. You should be able to tap one of those wires and use it to control the dimmer on your Redarc switch. The dimmer control is on the ground side of the circuit. So, the OEM switch you draw power from should have a 12v + wire going into it and then a ground wire that should be for illumination that goes back to the body control ecu which provides the dimming capabilities.
 
I've never wired anything like this in a 200. But I believe most any switch in the truck that has a light that dims on it has a dimmer control wire that goes back through the body control ecu. You should be able to tap one of those wires and use it to control the dimmer on your Redarc switch. The dimmer control is on the ground side of the circuit. So, the OEM switch you draw power from should have a 12v + wire going into it and then a ground wire that should be for illumination that goes back to the body control ecu which provides the dimming capabilities.
This makes sense.
 
Let’s talk vehicle tracking - not AirTag based.

My friends car was stolen from his driveway Monday morning, we think fob reader and duplicated the frequency (get rfid boxes for fobs while not using them in house). He pays a monthly fee for the audi connect app that provides tracking amongst other things. This gave car locations every time they turned it off. The car was recovered in under 36 hours in solid shape all in. The LC was on scene to support.

What would you guys do for an LC setup that isn’t easily detected and reliable? Yes - I know we’d all feel violated and wouldn’t want it back this that and the other. But imo getting your car back relatively unscathed and worrying about a diminished value claim with the ability to sell still is way better than a total loss claim, especially high dollar.

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Let’s talk vehicle tracking - not AirTag based.

My friends car was stolen from his driveway Monday morning, we think fob reader and duplicated the frequency (get rfid boxes for fobs while not using them in house). He pays a monthly fee for the audi connect app that provides tracking amongst other things. This gave car locations every time they turned it off. The car was recovered in under 36 hours in solid shape all in. The LC was on scene to support.

What would you guys do for an LC setup that isn’t easily detected and reliable? Yes - I know we’d all feel violated and wouldn’t want it back this that and the other. But imo getting your car back relatively unscathed and worrying about a diminished value claim with the ability to sell still is way better than a total loss claim, especially high dollar.

View attachment 3827026View attachment 3827025
BLUF: If you want good GPS tracking, get a module and service from landairsea. Full disclosure - I receive nothing from this recommendation.

I use a landairsea GPS module. You can plug it directly in to the OBD port, or connect it directly to the battery and get creative with placement under the hood/around the car. I went with the latter option for discretion. It works 99% of the time and isn't too expensive per month. You can set geo fences, speed alerts, get history, etc. It's effective IMO.

My LC has a 12V solutions remote start with subscription service which offers current location tracking based on cell towers (3/4g iirc - no history, geo fencing, etc) compared to the landairsea gps module. The tracking isn't as robust comparatively as I cannot access some functions in certain areas I commonly travel.
 
BLUF: If you want good GPS tracking, get a module and service from landairsea. Full disclosure - I receive nothing from this recommendation.

I use a landairsea GPS module. You can plug it directly in to the OBD port, or connect it directly to the battery and get creative with placement under the hood/around the car. I went with the latter option for discretion. It works 99% of the time and isn't too expensive per month. You can set geo fences, speed alerts, get history, etc. It's effective IMO.

My LC has a 12V solutions remote start with subscription service which offers current location tracking based on cell towers (3/4g iirc - no history, geo fencing, etc) compared to the landairsea gps module. The tracking isn't as robust comparatively as I cannot access some functions in certain areas I commonly travel.
Is this the one you bought? SYNC OBD-II GPS Tracker for Cars - https://shop.landairsea.com/products/landairsea-sync

How difficult was it to connect directly to the battery?

Their commercial grade units seem to be much more expensive for both the monthly tracking, but also entry cost.
 
Is this the one you bought? SYNC OBD-II GPS Tracker for Cars - https://shop.landairsea.com/products/landairsea-sync

How difficult was it to connect directly to the battery?

Their commercial grade units seem to be much more expensive for both the monthly tracking, but also entry cost.
Yes, that's the very one I've got. After looking again, apparently it uses both 4g LTE and GPS for tracking. I also bought their hardwired wiring harness to go with it to avoid anything conspicuous easily seen from inside the car. When looking for a link to the stuff I have, I cannot find it anymore as it looks like they've moved on to their new "54" and "overdrive" tracking modules. This is my best guess anyway. They have an OBD "extension cable" setup, but I wanted nothing abnormal in the car.

EDIT:
Looks like this is the newest variant of the same capabilities I have with the older unit:

Hardwire kit:

If you sign up for their emails and you're patient, they MAY or may not have offered discounted monitoring plans in the past.
 
Yes, that's the very one I've got. After looking again, apparently it uses both 4g LTE and GPS for tracking. I also bought their hardwired wiring harness to go with it to avoid anything conspicuous easily seen from inside the car. When looking for a link to the stuff I have, I cannot find it anymore as it looks like they've moved on to their new "54" and "overdrive" tracking modules. This is my best guess anyway. They have an OBD "extension cable" setup, but I wanted nothing abnormal in the car.

EDIT:
Looks like this is the newest variant of the same capabilities I have with the older unit:

Hardwire kit:

If you sign up for their emails and you're patient, they MAY or may not have offered discounted monitoring plans in the past.


Thanks a lot. This seems like it'll be easier than anticipated. I agree with you, hardwiring and hiding to some ability is the best bet.
 
Hello all - I did some searching and couldn't find much and didn't feel like this deserved its own thread.

Moving from a 200 with 3rd row to a HE without and beginning to look at storage solutions for the rear cargo area which raises the question: Are there any specific brands and/or solutions (drawers vs bags vs whatever) that people without the 3rd row are happy with that require no vehicle modification/drilling?? (for reference I had a single Landshark drawer in the 2013 and was happy with it but was prob more storage than I needed as this is my daily - the 2013 is the 'gear-mobile').

Thanks!
 
I’ve got one for you guys. I have an ‘18 LX and if you turn on the dome light by touching it, it turns off the door activated dome light and you have to remember to turn it back on which drives me bonkers. I have two kids in car seats in the back and not having the light when I open the door is a huge issue since usually it involves yogurt or vomit. Is there any way to turn this off or avoid it?
 
I have had conversations with 2 separate independent shops that install lots of alarms and remote starts. Both told me there is NO remote start system available or bypass to stop the engine from shutting off when the door is opened, in Toyota vehicles. None.

Please prove me wrong, I really hope they are.

The Compustar aftermarket system in my truck does the same thing.
Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I had a compustar/viper in my GX470 and I could get in it without the car turning off. I could also put the key in and turn it to the run position and it would keep running after I got the brake. I miss it so much lol
 
Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I had a compustar/viper in my GX470 and I could get in it without the car turning off. I could also put the key in and turn it to the run position and it would keep running after I got the brake. I miss it so much lol
If you find a way to perform this same task with the 200, post what you did. Otherwise, it’s still the same answer as before unfortunately.
 
Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I had a compustar/viper in my GX470 and I could get in it without the car turning off. I could also put the key in and turn it to the run position and it would keep running after I got the brake. I miss it so much lol
For a vehicle that gen'd out at least 16 years ago, I'm not surprised. Once keyless push-button start became the norm, this is not possible.

Again, hoping someone can prove me wrong.
 
For a vehicle that gen'd out at least 16 years ago, I'm not surprised. Once keyless push-button start became the norm, this is not possible.

Again, hoping someone can prove me wrong.
It's possible, we just need the right person to get on the job.

When I did the LS swap into my 80-series there was someone reprogramming GM Body Control Modules to do all kinds of interesting stuff.. like make the gauge lights flicker as a shift light, and dozens of other custom tweaks.
 
Todays SQOD. 2013 LC. I want to run a cat6 cable from the a-pillar to the sunglass holder area (the console between the sun visors) for a ham radio install.

Is there anything to be aware of in that area? Do I need to drop the headliner in the front?

I tried fishing the cable from the console toward the a-pillar but ran into something. I want to make sure I’m not about to hit a sunroof drain tube, airbag part etc (don’t think the obstruction is airbag related)

I was trying to find a picture of that area (over the passenger sun visor) with the headliner removed, but haven’t found one yet.
 
Todays SQOD. 2013 LC. I want to run a cat6 cable from the a-pillar to the sunglass holder area (the console between the sun visors) for a ham radio install.

Is there anything to be aware of in that area? Do I need to drop the headliner in the front?

I tried fishing the cable from the console toward the a-pillar but ran into something. I want to make sure I’m not about to hit a sunroof drain tube, airbag part etc (don’t think the obstruction is airbag related)

I was trying to find a picture of that area (over the passenger sun visor) with the headliner removed, but haven’t found one yet.

Make sure to run the cable under/behind the curtain airbag in the a-pillar.
 
Todays SQOD. 2013 LC. I want to run a cat6 cable from the a-pillar to the sunglass holder area (the console between the sun visors) for a ham radio install.

Is there anything to be aware of in that area? Do I need to drop the headliner in the front?

I tried fishing the cable from the console toward the a-pillar but ran into something. I want to make sure I’m not about to hit a sunroof drain tube, airbag part etc (don’t think the obstruction is airbag related)

I was trying to find a picture of that area (over the passenger sun visor) with the headliner removed, but haven’t found one yet.
Disconnect your battery and wait about 10 min before messing around with the pillar. Controlled explosives in close proximity can yield interesting results when you’re not ready.

Also, remove the pillar before fishing anything through it. It’s not tough and you get to see exactly where you’re securing your cable to make sure it’s behind your airbag and not affecting the sunroof drains, etc.
 
Make sure to run the cable under/behind the curtain airbag in the a-pillar.
Depends on if you habe a-pillar airbags. Like my 200 has only a steering wheel and passenger airbag.

@elcie200 in the roof section you normally only need to pull hard enough at the corners to get a gap that is wide enough to push the cable into it.
 

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