SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (6 Viewers)

[gasman4u]

The front brakes don’t have guide pins in the traditional sense, and the rear brakes do have boots for the pins.

I don’t live in an area with road salt but I just change the fluid every few years and drive it. The rest of the maintenance gets done when I change pads & rotors.

That's been my M.O. for a long time with a similar set of winter circumstances, but was told recently that I "should disassemble and lubricate" my brake hardware annually. Brake fluid flush every two years, for sure - hardware disassembly every 12 months....na.

 

[KLF]

what (if any) annual brake maintenance are you doing? Nothing, something, everything?

I’ve recently been told that breaking everything down cleaning and regreasing, caliper pins, etc was a good idea. Given our brakes (from what I can tell) don’t have caliper guide pin boots, etc what are you doing? TIA.

I've never seen a need to do anything, until pads or rotors are needed.

Front calipers are not the floating style, no sliding pins. They are bolted directly to the knuckle.

Rear calipers have boots on the pins. It's not like the silicone grease "wears out" on the pins.

I'll give everything a visual inspection when rotating the tires (during oil changes). Maybe pull the pins out of the front pads and fresh anti-seize on them.

That being said, I'm going through the brakes on the Tacoma this week. The dealer installed all new hard lines, plus new rotors, pads, and calipers on the front prior to the sale (this was 6 weeks ago). But not a spec of anti-seize anywhere. So you know those rotors are gonna be a huge problem to remove when it's time. So all of it is coming back apart. The rear wheels were incredibly difficult to remove (stuck to the drums), as were the drums. Anti-seize is your friend.

 

[kcjaz]

Anyone? Help a newbie out?

Post here:

Thread 'The official part number request thread'

Dec 1, 2023

(Edit: PLEASE include model year, whether it’s a LC or LX, and if possible the build date listed on the VIN tag in the driver’s door jamb.)

Hello all,

I’m fortunate enough to have access to a system to look up part numbers, and figure having a single place to put all the obscure requests would be a good idea.

So here it is. Please post what you need, whether it’s LX or LC, model year AND build date, and if possible a picture.. and I’ll see if I can dig up useful numbers.

Btw if it’s inappropriate for me to call my own thread “official” let me know and I’ll adjust.

• bloc
• lookup system lx obscure requests part number request vehicle parts
• Replies: 407
• Forum: 200-Series Cruisers

• 
• 

 

[gaijin]

I feel stupid even asking this, but...

When disconnecting the battery before working around any air bags or anytime disconnecting the battery is suggested as a good thing before other work, does it make any difference whether the positive, negative, or both terminals are disconnected?

Positive only OK?
Negative only OK?
Both (or any single one) better?

Thanks in advance for helping me cure my brain fart

 

[TeCKis300]

I feel stupid even asking this, but...

When disconnecting the battery before working around any air bags or anytime disconnecting the battery is suggested as a good thing before other work, does it make any difference whether the positive, negative, or both terminals are disconnected?

Positive only OK?
Negative only OK?
Both (or any single one) better?

Thanks in advance for helping me cure my brain fart

From a electronics POV, it doesn't matter, it achieves the same thing.

From a procedural perspective, it matters much more because of a danger of shorts and sparks. Always remove the negative first. There is a much lower likelihood of creating an accidental short with a tool bridging the negative terminal to surrounding metal parts of the chassis/body because they are also at negative potential.

It's not just the immediate spark that's a concern. Compromised batteries can have flammable off-gas, which could lead to a mini-explosion.

To your question, remove negative for an installed battery if you're doing work.

If replacing an installed battery and taking off both terminals, again negative first then positive. When installing a battery, positive first, then negative.

 

[KLF]

Yeah, I've read several places that you should always disconnect the negative terminal if doing work on a vehicle, or first if removing the battery. I'll usually do that, zip tie it to something else, and put a rag over the terminal.

 

[CactusHopper]

What about when connecting a jumper to start the battery? I have a usb charged jumper "battery" if that matters...

 

[gasman4u]

What about when connecting a jumper to start the battery? I have a usb charged jumper "battery" if that matters...

This doesn’t matter IF using your jump pack. It DOES if you’re using cables to a live car/battery.

 

[CactusHopper]

This doesn’t matter IF using your jump pack. It DOES if you’re using cables to a live car/battery.

So from a LIVE car/battery.... attach negative first, then positive, then remove positive, then negative?

 

[gasman4u]

So from a LIVE car/battery.... attach negative first, then positive, then remove positive, then negative?

“Black on bare metal” means ground in pic below. Pic for ease of reference. There’s plenty of was it can be done, but imo the one below is a safer way compared to some others.

 

[PhuckItImDone]

Having just replaced this, im wondering if there's anything I can plug into the connection as more of a cap? Looking at how low it actually hangs, and the fact that I don't use the trailer hitch, im wondering if I could unplug it, and what could I use to protect the truck end from the elements?

 

[bloc]

Having just replaced this, im wondering if there's anything I can plug into the connection as more of a cap? Looking at how low it actually hangs, and the fact that I don't use the trailer hitch, im wondering if I could unplug it, and what could I use to protect the truck end from the elements?

View attachment 3998390

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There would have been blanking plugs in there from the factory.. maybe someone that had to install the pigtail when they got their rig has them lying around.

If not you can get creative with some electrical tape. I’ve done that in the past on other connectors with good results.