My tilt away wheel (‘08 lx570) is making a squeaking noise, any steps or pictures on where I need to spray the silicon spray?
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KLF are my initials, sorry.KLF!
Ha! I didn’t know such a product existed. Perfect. Thank you.
KLF is gonna rock ya!
3AM eternal!
(At least I am assuming you picked your handle because you like the band KLF)
Try here Groaning and moaning in steering wheel while turning, low speed?? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/groaning-and-moaning-in-steering-wheel-while-turning-low-speed.1269491/post-15431301My tilt away wheel (‘08 lx570) is making a squeaking noise, any steps or pictures on where I need to spray the silicon spray?
Ah. Good to know about the zip tape. But I suppose it would be easy enough to slice away should I care to remove it or need to push some other wire through that hole.KLF are my initials, sorry.
Zip tape is crazy sticky, sticks to anything, even wet stuff. The stretch version is amazing, but not meant to come off.
I feel personally attacked.Crossing my fingers that I don't end up in the "how do I drop my LCA so I can drill out a snapped bump stop stud" thread...
That was more a confession of inadequacy on my end that I have no idea on earth how to even begin to drop an LCA to remedy the situation if I were to snap mine. Thus I chickened out.I feel personally attacked.
Had the hood open today and noticed this strip wasn't attached all the way across. Seems stretched, as the holes don't line up with the tabs for it. 2018 LC
A. Any idea what would cause this?
B. Anyone know a part # so I can order a new one.
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Had the hood open today and noticed this strip wasn't attached all the way across. Seems stretched, as the holes don't line up with the tabs for it. 2018 LC
A. Any idea what would cause this?
B. Anyone know a part # so I can order a new one.
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Mine also is stretched in length, no longer fits the hooks. I blamed it on the NHOU oiling on the hood that is still dripping out 2 years later. Doesn't seem to be the case for you though.Had the hood open today and noticed this strip wasn't attached all the way across. Seems stretched, as the holes don't line up with the tabs for it. 2018 LC
A. Any idea what would cause this?
B. Anyone know a part # so I can order a new one.
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I did, didn't seem to make a difference.Have you tried flipping it around to see if the holes line up with the tabs better?
On the cruiser it’s on the metal housing not the cap. Yes it may be missing but if it’s properly torqued it won’t back off anyway.Here’s my Stupid Question: Recently moved from a 100 Series to a 2016 200 Series. Did my first oil change a month or so ago and struggled to remove the oil filter housing. The tech at the dealership that did the change previously really got it way too tight. I ended up having to use a breaker bar to get it loose. When I reinstalled it, I snugged it up and aligned the tabs on filter housing to the tab on the base. My wife drives a 4Runner, and her filter housing has a small metal spring clip on the side that aligns to the base.
Question is: is the Land Cruiser housing supposed to have a metal spring clip? If so, can you buy it separately? I bought a new housing since I know it’s plastic and the old one was over tightened. The new one I bought doesn’t have a spring clip.
Wife’s 4Runner housing with the spring clip.
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Also look into the metal “venza” oil filter cap to replace your plastic one. You’ll have to move a part of your plastic cap over, but it’s a much less fragile option and factory Toyota so you know the quality is there. Also not very expensive.
Regarding the 3UR-FE oil filter cap I would recommend using the OEM plastic version and a proper tool to remove it like the one from Motivx, because I rather not cross thread the engine side. In case your existing plastic one is damaged, replace it with one bought directly from Toyota, so it is OEM.
I know this is against many owners who like the Venza aluminum/light alloy style or other after market version of the same, so shoot me down if you like. I am not changing my mind on this one. Like TeCKis300, I rather have the plastic cap get damaged.
Good luck with the choices around this!
I've been back and forth on this.
With how tucked up the oil filter is on the cruiser, there would be more serious issues before the plastic cap could be an issue. I think I'd rather have the plastic cap fail as a failure mode than anything else upstream.
In theory I agree, but I’ve seen too many get stuck and must be destroyed to get them off to trust the polymer, even as someone who rarely touches his vehicle without a torque wrench. Every once in a while I must pay someone for an oil change mid-roadtrip. I’m not going to let those excursions present problems when I return to normally scheduled maintenance.
Plus plastic can degrade from heat and chemical exposure much more quickly than aluminum.
After 20 oil changes on mine I’m also not concerned with crossthreading at all. The thread pitch for this diameter prevents it, not to mention hand threading it past the point the oring touches down. Hopefully said oil change guys don’t start threading mine with an impact gun..