- Thread starter
- #121
Exactly. Take the shear and moment off of the rear bearing retainer on the fuller, since it was never designed for that. It's huge, but still ...
Builds Splurge Overkill - FJ60 build
- Thread starter isbj60
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Exactly. Take the shear and moment off of the rear bearing retainer on the fuller, since it was never designed for that. It's huge, but still ...
Dude, is your life getting in the way of your build?
- Thread starter
- #123
Indeed. Working crazy long hours right now, so not much progress to report. I did get some more steel for the adapter, maybe on Sunday I can get some machining done if I don't have to play fleet mechanic on our other vehicles.
That's a great and ambitious build. I'm subscribed.
Okay dude, it's been a month...
- Thread starter
- #126
I know, I know. Progress has been made, just not really picture or update worthy. The transfer case adapter is about 75% complete, hopefully tonight I can wrap up the machining on the part I have in the lathe and take some pictures.
I have been pretty busy working on some machine tools I bought for the shop. Each needs a bit of work, but the aquisition cost was pretty hard to pass up. It does take time, though...
On the plus side, I found a deal on some brakes. Some folks are buying up military surplus axles from the MRAP vehicles to use in mud trucks. Huge planetary jobs, 18,000# rated. Those axles just happen to have air disc brakes... They are happy to shave 190 lb A CORNER off of their axle assemblies, and I am happy to get brand new brakes for barely more than scrap value. $400, total, for 4 corners' worth of calipers, pads, cans, rotors, and caliper mounting brackets. They are military stuff, so they have skid plates already built for the cans. And they will fit the 20" wheels I have, since those came off of the same vehicle. They have yet to ship, hopefully in the next couple of weeks. Pictures will definately be in the works when I get those! I was looking at $1500+ for just one caliper, sans pads and can. Throw in ~$300 for pads, $100 for a can, and $700 for a rotor, and you can see what 4 wheels ends would have cost me. Happy is an understatement.
Realistically, it looks like the beginning of the year for the major purchases. Then it's off to the races. I hope to have the drivetrain put together by springtime so I know exactly what to finalize my wheelbase at and what my frame needs will be. There are several 400hp motorhome versions of the ISL taunting me right now. Soon, my precious!
I have pretty much settled on parting out my 5-ton truck, since I don't drive it and it just costs me money to sit around and rust. That means I will graft the knuckles off of it onto the rear axle and set myself up for ~10 degrees of rear steer in the future. Probably going to be too much money to set it up now, but since the 2.5 ton front knuckles are known for crappy turning radiuses, even a few degrees out of the rear will help temendously. It sould turn better with 10 degrees of rear steer and a 130"+ wheelbase than it does now at 105". Gearhart Engineering makes a set of 2-9/16" axle shafts for the 5-ton front that I can get re-splined to match the 2-1/4" pattern in the eaton 23105d rear diff. The U-joints they use on those shafts have a 2-1/8" cap. I don't think strength is going to be a concern. The thickness of my wallet won't be, either...
I am really starting to question the wisdom of a NP-205 and doubler. I don't think I am going to need that amount of reduction, and that NP-205 is looking like it's the fuse. A fuse nobody makes gears for anymore. So I might just use a NV 271 and live with no front digs and a 2.72:1 low. Thoughts? Even if one of those cases runs me $1200, it is still cheaper than the NP-205 setup... 7800 ft-lbs of input torque and 19,000 GVW for the NV 271 is pretty tempting, and it seems dodge guys are pushing 800+ HP in their drag race trucks doing 4 wheel launches and not having issues with these cases. And while the 2.72:1 is a bit lower than optimal for slick conditions, I can always compensate by using a higher gear and a few more of my 1200 ft-lb of torque...
I have been pretty busy working on some machine tools I bought for the shop. Each needs a bit of work, but the aquisition cost was pretty hard to pass up. It does take time, though...
On the plus side, I found a deal on some brakes. Some folks are buying up military surplus axles from the MRAP vehicles to use in mud trucks. Huge planetary jobs, 18,000# rated. Those axles just happen to have air disc brakes... They are happy to shave 190 lb A CORNER off of their axle assemblies, and I am happy to get brand new brakes for barely more than scrap value. $400, total, for 4 corners' worth of calipers, pads, cans, rotors, and caliper mounting brackets. They are military stuff, so they have skid plates already built for the cans. And they will fit the 20" wheels I have, since those came off of the same vehicle. They have yet to ship, hopefully in the next couple of weeks. Pictures will definately be in the works when I get those! I was looking at $1500+ for just one caliper, sans pads and can. Throw in ~$300 for pads, $100 for a can, and $700 for a rotor, and you can see what 4 wheels ends would have cost me. Happy is an understatement.
Realistically, it looks like the beginning of the year for the major purchases. Then it's off to the races. I hope to have the drivetrain put together by springtime so I know exactly what to finalize my wheelbase at and what my frame needs will be. There are several 400hp motorhome versions of the ISL taunting me right now. Soon, my precious!
I have pretty much settled on parting out my 5-ton truck, since I don't drive it and it just costs me money to sit around and rust. That means I will graft the knuckles off of it onto the rear axle and set myself up for ~10 degrees of rear steer in the future. Probably going to be too much money to set it up now, but since the 2.5 ton front knuckles are known for crappy turning radiuses, even a few degrees out of the rear will help temendously. It sould turn better with 10 degrees of rear steer and a 130"+ wheelbase than it does now at 105". Gearhart Engineering makes a set of 2-9/16" axle shafts for the 5-ton front that I can get re-splined to match the 2-1/4" pattern in the eaton 23105d rear diff. The U-joints they use on those shafts have a 2-1/8" cap. I don't think strength is going to be a concern. The thickness of my wallet won't be, either...
I am really starting to question the wisdom of a NP-205 and doubler. I don't think I am going to need that amount of reduction, and that NP-205 is looking like it's the fuse. A fuse nobody makes gears for anymore. So I might just use a NV 271 and live with no front digs and a 2.72:1 low. Thoughts? Even if one of those cases runs me $1200, it is still cheaper than the NP-205 setup... 7800 ft-lbs of input torque and 19,000 GVW for the NV 271 is pretty tempting, and it seems dodge guys are pushing 800+ HP in their drag race trucks doing 4 wheel launches and not having issues with these cases. And while the 2.72:1 is a bit lower than optimal for slick conditions, I can always compensate by using a higher gear and a few more of my 1200 ft-lb of torque...
this is gunna be one hell of rig, excited to see the end result!
At first I thought you were installing MRAP axles, I was gonna say that the frame is waay too weak for that kind of weight. Then again it depends on which MRAPs you are talking about, but still. Anyway I'm looking forward to watching your build. Post up more pictures when you can.
- Thread starter
- #129
Thanks! I hope it looks as good in real life as it does in my head.
- Thread starter
- #130
I am just using the brakes and rims off of the MRAP. But the stock frame will not take what I am throwing at it. It is going to be a custom job, snaking around all the stuff. The nv271 is wide. So much so that Chevy guys have to worry about the frame width on their trucks when they swap it in instead of the np263 that came in those trucks...
Got word that the brakes will be in Monday or Tuesday of next week! Definitely taking pictures of them.
Go NV271 . I think you will spit 205 parts all over the place. Not only that but with those torque numbers low gears inst that much of a issue.
The deal on the brakes is fantastic. Nice to get a deal every now and then, because you know you will run into something that will cost more than you thought.
Have you drawn your frame with CAD yet?
Have you drawn your frame with CAD yet?
- Thread starter
- #133
That's what I was thinking. I got to play around with a friends' '06 dodge and in low range it's quite controllable. And that's at 6:1 in the transmission, not 26:1.
It's quite refreshing. I can spend those dollars on other cool things now! Haven't done anything on the frame yet. I will probably get all the components and mock them up on jackstands, then design the frame to fit. I'd better get or make a lot of jackstands...
Speaking of which, anyone have a jack stand they like for this purpose? Make it or buy it? I am thinking screw jacks for fine positioning, but I haven't done anything like this before...
- Thread starter
- #134
Some progress on the transfer case adapter. The pieces before assembly.
Press fit together. They will be drilled and bolted together with 10-24 SHCS. 24 of them. This is the side that bolts to the transmission rear bearing retainer.
Press fit together. They will be drilled and bolted together with 10-24 SHCS. 24 of them. This is the side that bolts to the transmission rear bearing retainer.
- Thread starter
- #135
The other side of the base. This is what the tube that goes over the yoke centers on. There will be 12 1/4-20 SHCS bolting this joint together.
Picture the yoke in the middle of this.
From the side, transmission end down. This will be the joint that is made when mounting the t-case to the transmission.
Needs lots of drilling and countersinking now. Also, the other end that bolts to the t-case needs to be machined. I am going to wait on that until I get the NV271, just in case the register diameter is different. The circular bolt pattern is the same as an np205, though.
Picture the yoke in the middle of this.
From the side, transmission end down. This will be the joint that is made when mounting the t-case to the transmission.
Needs lots of drilling and countersinking now. Also, the other end that bolts to the t-case needs to be machined. I am going to wait on that until I get the NV271, just in case the register diameter is different. The circular bolt pattern is the same as an np205, though.
- Thread starter
- #136
Link to the service manual for the brakes I just bought. They should be the DB22LT model.
http://www.axletech.com/resources/service_manuals/pdf/SM_DB22_HALDEX_eng_A4.pdf
http://www.axletech.com/resources/service_manuals/pdf/SM_DB22_HALDEX_eng_A4.pdf
That stuff is so cool looking! I love custom machined parts.
cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
this is gonna be one heavy bitch
- Thread starter
- #140
It prefers to be called "big boned"...
My brakes got lost in transit. From Spokane to Seattle. Impressive. Spent all day today finding them. I will be driving to Seattle tonight to pick them up at the dock. Don't trust the shipper to actually deliver them tomorrow.
My brakes got lost in transit. From Spokane to Seattle. Impressive. Spent all day today finding them. I will be driving to Seattle tonight to pick them up at the dock. Don't trust the shipper to actually deliver them tomorrow.
