What color are they?
Builds Spdstr280Z's While I'm in There 80 Series Build... (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Spdstr280Z
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- Thread starter
- #42
Thank you, Jason. This is the color I've been wanting!
-Alex
- Thread starter
- #44
Had a couple questions here and on FB about the firewall insulation. The original stuff was falling apart after 27 years, and hitting it a bit with a pressure washer didn't do it any favors either. I went with DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield II, that I sourced from Summit. Probably not the best stuff in the world, but it was pretty decent to work with, forms fairly easily, and is self adhesive. It's almost like a thin dimpled aluminum pie pan, bonded to a thin fiberglass insulation with an adhesive sheet on the back.
I used the old insulation as a general template as best I could...
It cuts well with tin snips...
A hole saw makes pretty clean circles, and a cut off wheel on a Dremel cuts the inside lines well enough. I later cleaned up the fuzz with scissors.
The small drill holes are for the old insulation mounting studs, which I used for registration while forming to the firewall....
Remove, trim, replace, form, repeat a few times until you are happy, then peel the backing and adhere. The adhesive is serious stuff, you need to be in place before it touches much.
...and done ! (Well, almost, seems I didn't get an actual finished picture) It isn't perfect, but it should do the job. It's mostly hidden anyway.
In that pic I had not taped the driver side seam or above the heater lines yet. You can also see that I made a few changes to the cut outs on the last (drivers side) piece. Just a circle instead of the larger square cut out for the plug. Wish I had paid a little more attention and been less true to the original to begin with.
Jason
I used the old insulation as a general template as best I could...
It cuts well with tin snips...
A hole saw makes pretty clean circles, and a cut off wheel on a Dremel cuts the inside lines well enough. I later cleaned up the fuzz with scissors.
The small drill holes are for the old insulation mounting studs, which I used for registration while forming to the firewall....
Remove, trim, replace, form, repeat a few times until you are happy, then peel the backing and adhere. The adhesive is serious stuff, you need to be in place before it touches much.
...and done ! (Well, almost, seems I didn't get an actual finished picture) It isn't perfect, but it should do the job. It's mostly hidden anyway.
In that pic I had not taped the driver side seam or above the heater lines yet. You can also see that I made a few changes to the cut outs on the last (drivers side) piece. Just a circle instead of the larger square cut out for the plug. Wish I had paid a little more attention and been less true to the original to begin with.
Jason
- Thread starter
- #46
I'm doing a horrible job keeping this thread up to date, but this got a lot of attention on the FB 80 Series group, so thought I would share here too.
If you are so inclined, all the HVAC control buttons are still available, cheap. Mine were worn and looked like crap, so when I stumbled on the parts listing, I ordered them to see if the were really available. First order was from PartSouq, they backordered the recirc button after showing it in stock, then put it back in stock later (told me a dealer put a hold on inventory), so I ordered it from LaGrange or McGeorge. Quarter bananna job once the unit is out of the dash. They pop off and back on.
If you are so inclined, all the HVAC control buttons are still available, cheap. Mine were worn and looked like crap, so when I stumbled on the parts listing, I ordered them to see if the were really available. First order was from PartSouq, they backordered the recirc button after showing it in stock, then put it back in stock later (told me a dealer put a hold on inventory), so I ordered it from LaGrange or McGeorge. Quarter bananna job once the unit is out of the dash. They pop off and back on.
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- Thread starter
- #47
Going back in time a little bit, I cleaned up and repainted the frame that was exposed with the engine out. I used Eastwood 2K spray bombs, epoxy primer and chassis black. Turned out decent...
Obviously Toyota has proven the strength of this chassis and their welding processes. And I guess I do have to remember this was done nearly 30 years ago. But.... I work for a heavy equipment manufacturer, and this surface quality, weld spatter and weld wire stingers would get our frames sent back to Fabrications. Funny to see.
Jason
Obviously Toyota has proven the strength of this chassis and their welding processes. And I guess I do have to remember this was done nearly 30 years ago. But.... I work for a heavy equipment manufacturer, and this surface quality, weld spatter and weld wire stingers would get our frames sent back to Fabrications. Funny to see.
Jason
- Thread starter
- #48
And the engine did eventually find its way home...
Jason
Jason
- Thread starter
- #49
This probably won't be of an interest to anyone who already owns a welder and has some idea of what to do with it, but this thread needs something...
I got a set of @LandCruiserPhil heady duty sway bar links to go with my Blackhawk rear sway bar. My 80 is a 93 and had the side strap link mounts, and only had one weld nut per side for the under frame mounts. LCP has the answer to this, and will supply heady duty threadserts to fill the blank holes. Well, I'm an idiot, and screwed up one of the threadsert installs. Instead of using the bolt and nut solution provided, I decided to use the actual tool I have for the job. Except it's the long handle type, I'm in an awkward position and despite my prodigious size, it wasn't easy putting enough strength in to the tool to crimp the heavy duty nutsert. I ended up putting it in at an angle and tried to drill it out. Of course making the hole too big for another nutsert in the process. Soooo.... I ended up doing what I really wanted to do in the first place....
Made myself an even bigger hole....
To fit my home made nut plug...
Line it up...
Some weldering...
I got a set of @LandCruiserPhil heady duty sway bar links to go with my Blackhawk rear sway bar. My 80 is a 93 and had the side strap link mounts, and only had one weld nut per side for the under frame mounts. LCP has the answer to this, and will supply heady duty threadserts to fill the blank holes. Well, I'm an idiot, and screwed up one of the threadsert installs. Instead of using the bolt and nut solution provided, I decided to use the actual tool I have for the job. Except it's the long handle type, I'm in an awkward position and despite my prodigious size, it wasn't easy putting enough strength in to the tool to crimp the heavy duty nutsert. I ended up putting it in at an angle and tried to drill it out. Of course making the hole too big for another nutsert in the process. Soooo.... I ended up doing what I really wanted to do in the first place....
Made myself an even bigger hole....
To fit my home made nut plug...
Line it up...
Some weldering...
- Thread starter
- #50
Some grinding...
Tapping to clean the threads of welding and grinding gunk...
And some paint...
And it ALMOST looks like Toyota put it there...
It's mine now, I welded on it.
Jason
Tapping to clean the threads of welding and grinding gunk...
And some paint...
And it ALMOST looks like Toyota put it there...
It's mine now, I welded on it.
Jason
Nicely done!
- Thread starter
- #52
So while talking to the shop that did my heater core (don't think I've shared that yet) they informed me that they also tank / clean / seal fuel tanks. Didn't really plan on doing that, but I DID need to pull out the sender assembly because the gauge didn't work below 2/3 of a tank or so. Poking around to see how bad the tank was inside, I found this....
OK... We'll get the tank done after all.
Some other inside shots...
So away it went...
Jason
OK... We'll get the tank done after all.
Some other inside shots...
So away it went...
Jason
- Thread starter
- #53
...and back home. Looks like a horror movie in there. I know there is some debate about this stuff, but they said they have been doing it for 20+ years and never had a problem.
New fuel pump...
.....
New fuel pump...
.....
- Thread starter
- #54
And a few other parts. Before...
And after...
New filler...
New hoses, glue the rubber pad strips back on with heavy duty contact adhesive and back in it goes...
Seems the fuel tank really suffered for the time this thing sat. Lots of rust and junk in the bottom. At this point, should be good. Even have a new main fuel line since I destroyed the old one (cross threaded fitting at the soft hose to the filter would not come off).
Jason
And after...
New filler...
New hoses, glue the rubber pad strips back on with heavy duty contact adhesive and back in it goes...
Seems the fuel tank really suffered for the time this thing sat. Lots of rust and junk in the bottom. At this point, should be good. Even have a new main fuel line since I destroyed the old one (cross threaded fitting at the soft hose to the filter would not come off).
Jason
Man, getting to the point of being able to slap on a new fire wall insulator without any obstacles is no joke. Good work on the truck and thread, keep it up
- Thread starter
- #56
While I'm in there.... The years of battery acid and fumes had taken a toll on the front of the inner fender and the radiator support. Nothing too bad, but the paint was destroyed and some surface rust getting going on the fender lip under the radiator support...
Got started with a wire wheel before some Ospho
And 2K epoxy primer (more spray bombs)...
Filler primer...
And some paint...
I'll hate myself for that tape line later, but good enough for an inner fender that will never be seen.
Jason
Got started with a wire wheel before some Ospho
And 2K epoxy primer (more spray bombs)...
Filler primer...
And some paint...
I'll hate myself for that tape line later, but good enough for an inner fender that will never be seen.
Jason
- Thread starter
- #57
Actually did the radiator support first, but didn't get many pictures...
It's over restored, I used tape for the black....
Jason
It's over restored, I used tape for the black....
Jason
- Thread starter
- #58
One of these is mine, who else ? Took a while to talk myself in to it, but decided OTRAMM was the way to go if I'm planning to keep it forever.
Jason
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Man that is a lot of work when the part is still available and not a lot of $$$. Good on ya though, it looks like it will take the pressure washer better than stock insulator will.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #60
Yeah, this is a spot where I wanted to try something that I HOPE will be a bit of an upgrade over stock. Hoping for a little better heat control and to hold up to the elements and cleaning a bit better. We'll see. Still have to make the same decision on the hood liner.
Jason
