Builds Spdstr280Z's While I'm in There 80 Series Build... (2 Viewers)

[Spdstr280Z]

This build thread has been no where near real time, I have been tinkering with this thing for two years now. Still have a lot of stuff I haven't shared yet, but I can update that later. I've decided it's May, the end of May is Memorial Day, and my birthday. No better time than now to try to get this junk back on the road. It certainly won't be DONE (will it ever ?) but I hope to have it move under it's own power with me in it. I'm going to try to keep this thread updated for inspiration and public embarrassment if I fail miserably.

Things I need to do...

Engine

• Torque / Verify Torques on Everything
• Replace VAF Connector
• Reinstall VAF
• Heater Hoses
• Reinstall / Replace Remaining Misc. Electrical (Relays, etc.)
• Exhaust

Transmission

• Replace Wiring Harness and Sensors
• Cooler

Suspension

• Torque / Check Everything
• Align / Center Axles

Interior

• Reinstall Dash
• Heater Core
• Heater Box
• A/C Box
• Wiring Harness
• Seam Seal
• Surface Rust Repair
• Prime / Paint
• Lizard Skin
• Carpet
• Trim
• Seats

And tons of other important miscellaneous stuff I'm sure I'm forgetting.

Going to have to work some long nights and take a few vacation days in there I'm sure. Some things that aren't really requirements to drive it need to happen just because off order of operations. Need to complete the surface rust repair and Lizard Skin before putting the HVAC back in for example.

Here we go....

Jason

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Current state... You buy an old vehicle to beat around in, next thing you know you are replacing the latches on your repainted core support....

Yep, did all this and I didn't relocate the receiver / drier...

Ignore the cluster that is currently my garage.

Jason

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Along the way, I have had these limits I have set in my mind on where I'm stopping with "this round" of work. Trying to set some boundaries for the while I'm in there disease. For the most part, they have really just served as little speed bumps along the way. Screw it, I'm right here, so.... The last bastion was the transmission. It's the famous bus transmission, it's invincible, right ? I mean, yeah, I had to replace those pesky solenoids that were causing it to skip second gear, but other than that and a fluid change, nothing else. Until I found this..

Which lead me down the path of trying to find the connector, which forced me to trace back the transmission wiring harness. Playing with the wiring harness made me realize that it was in far worse shape than the engine wiring harness. The tubing was cracked and gone, and half of the connectors broke when I touched them. OK, that's not going to work.

Luckily all the connectors I broke are still available, as is the transfer case neutral switch, which I actually broke the entire plug off while trying to pull the connector, and the "neutral safety switch", which is the plug that started this detour. Might as well get the other position switches while I'm in there.

A little work re-pinning and re-taping and debit carding...

Ready to go....

Jason

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Except I'm not putting that nicely cleaned up wiring harness on this greasy ass mess of a transmission. I had hit it with a little degreaser at one point, but it was still absolutely covered. Let's do something about that...

Did you guys know the transfer case is aluminum ? At least that is one part that wont rust now that I have removed the oil coating.

It's not car show ready yet, but it will do for cars and coffee at the mall.

Some creative reaching and pushing and the position switches are replaced and the harness is back on. Cheaped out on replacing the speed sensors for now. They were working, are easy to get to, and not cheap.

Jason

 

[ppc]

Did you guys know the transfer case is aluminum ? At least that is one part that wont rust now that I have removed the oil coating.

Did you know both the transmission and transfer case came with a protective coating from the factory that you have now mostly removed?

Most know that the transmission and transfer outer cases and many other parts are aluminium castings. Yes, they don't "rust" as rust is iron oxide but aluminum is prone to "oxidation" (aluminum oxide) as well. All you need to see is see pictures of the aluminum valve cover which came from the factory unprotected of a land cruiser that has lived it's life in the rust belt.

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Did you know both the transmission and transfer case came with a protective coating from the factory that you have now mostly removed?

Most know that the transmission and transfer outer cases and many other parts are aluminium castings. Yes, they don't "rust" as rust is iron oxide but aluminum is prone to "oxidation" (aluminum oxide) as well. All you need to see is see pictures of the aluminum valve cover which came from the factory unprotected of a land cruiser that has lived it's life in the rust belt.

Fair point, although the initial aluminum oxidization generally creates a thin layer that protects the surface below it from oxygen. In less harsh climates, bare aluminum usually fares pretty well. I go back to old Datsuns with aluminum heads and valve covers, I do get what you are saying, was really joking about the rust. Also, FWIW, I'm using a foaming cleaner that is paint and plastic safe, so if there was any 30 year old coating left, it's probably still there, other than the couple of areas where I also used a little lacquer thinner. The Toyota Rust Defense system however has been defeated with new gaskets and seals, at least for the engine.

Jason

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Been pretty happy with this stuff....

Jason

 

[fjbj40]

If you don’t live in a corrosive environment then bare will be just fine. If not then you could mist it with a product such as ACF50, it’s used in aviation as a corrosion inhibitor. It will then get dirty but not corrode as readily.

 

[ppc]

I'm using a foaming cleaner that is paint and plastic safe, so if there was any 30 year old coating left, it's probably still there, other than the couple of areas where I also used a little lacquer thinner.

The original coating was a somewhat thick, tacky, yellowish material that would collect dirt. Your pictures show it has been completely removed in most of the accessible surfaces. Is it the end of the world, no. For you not so much an issue not living in the rest belt. My comments were made mostly for others that read the forum so they get the proper information.

 

[Spdstr280Z]

The original coating was a somewhat thick, tacky, yellowish material that would collect dirt. Your pictures show it has been completely removed in most of the accessible surfaces. Is it the end of the world, no. For you not so much an issue not living in the rest belt. My comments were made mostly for others that read the forum so they get the proper information.

Gotcha, yeah, that was gone long before I got to it. This one was caked on oil / grease and Georgia clay down to the aluminum. The oil build up on this thing was so bad in places, it was a challenge to determine what was oil and what was equally clumpy and built up undercoating..

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Damn... @OTRAMM

Jason

 

[Spdstr280Z]

I'm going to have o admit the chances of actually driving it this weekend are slim to none, but work is happening. Replaced the VAF connector...

And reinstalled the VAF with new gasket, hardware and intake hose (mine came split and repaired with electrical tape...) The VAF is about the scariest thing on this truck for me. Fragile and NLA., so I didn't even try to clean it up too much. It's going to look like crap, but at least it works. Or did when I parked it anyway. I'm pretty sure it is pretty much the same unit that was on the old Bosch L-Jetronic units in BMWs and Datsuns. I could see this thing getting a MegaSquirt or similar down the road, I see a few threads here and there, but doesn't look like too many people have done it.

Jason

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Also took care of the surface rust on the floorboards from the leaking sunroof. Removed the factory sound deadening, wire brushed, ground, treated, replaced seam sealer, and epoxy primed. Thankfully the sheet metal is a decent gauge, some serious pitting in places, but no perforation. Going to try Lizard Skin sound deadening and ceramic insulation....

Jason

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Everything Takes Longer Than it Does - My 80 Project Exemplified in Microcosm, the Wiper Linkage.

Or - Reasons this damn thing isn't done other than I'm a lazy slob.....

Touched up the inner cowl panel (some light surface rust in a couple places where it had rubbed, and around the wiper bolts) and went to bolt the linkage back in. The wiper linkage is one part that had never left the truck. It had just been chillin' in the cowl while I did some cleanup and paint work and ordered new bolts. Put the linkage back in place, installed the brand new bolts and.... One of them won't tighten. Damn. Was just hand tightening them, but I have big hands and the torque spec is about nothing, so...

It was probably the Harbor Freight ratchet that caused it, really...

All better...

But wait, that thing is nasty, and the boots are covered in grease and grime. This thing is 27 years old, I bet the linkage has never been lubed. OK, out it comes for a cleaning and service. But wait, I remember reading about a great lube for this I was going to try if I ever lubed another wiper linkage... Oh yeah, that's the stuff, order and wait....

...and clean and lube. OK, happy now ? Back in you go, wait. I should clean out in here while I have a chance.

OK, that's better...

And that's how a 15 minute job took a week.

Jason

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Before...

And after...

Jason

 

[Spdstr280Z]

I call this "The Light at the end of the Tunnel"...

Doing some testing before putting the dash back in. First time this thing has seen electrons in 2 1/2 years.

I'll be back when I have a "D" light to share.

Jason

 

[FMC80]

Dude. Glad I caught up on this just now. What an epic journey. Great work, more work to be done, wish I had your knowledge/experience. Keep up the great work. See you in another 6 months for something obscure but in great detail!

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Let's hit the floor...

Kind of surprised I don't have many "before" pics of the floor. Maybe because I was holding my breath (because it was NAAASTY) and I was afraid of finding significant rust under every piece of carpet, padding and tar I pulled back.

Thankfully, while there was some surface rust to deal with, it wasn't horrible. Nothing beyond what I would call significant pitting except around a drain hole in the back where it was slightly worse.

Eeeeew... Oh, look, quarters !

Most of the passenger (right) side tar mat was already cracked and just popped off. Maybe the years of catalytic converter heat and sitting with water puddled in the floorboard did it. The drivers side took the dry ice and hammer trick...

Some surface rust to clean up, mostly around the seat legs, but not bad...

The worst of it. Guess water puddled there for a while.

Those "bristle" Roloc disks are spendy, but pretty awesome. Used them, wire brushes and hand sanding as needed to get rid of the rust. Treated with Ospho, cleaned again and epoxy primed.

Oh, and redid a lot of the seam sealer where I ground it away...

....

 

[Spdstr280Z]

...a few work shots.

I didn't worry too much about the pitting or the surface quality, because...

 

[Spdstr280Z]

...I decided to cover it in goo anyway. Lizard Skin SC and CI.

SC dried...

And time for CI...

Pictures cleverly arranged to insinuate it was all done at the same time, but in reality it was done in sections, and there were months between the front and back.