SPC UCA's - Tire Rub

[Cruiserhead05]

And here is the stance with the spacers.

There was no real final conclusion on why everything was so close and no one else has run into similar issues but most of the big 200 vendors/experts didn't seem to alarmed by what we found.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

When I was looking at uppers, I test fitted my new tire combo which didn't work with the stock uppers, since SPC are designed with just about the same overall dimensions as OEM, and prior good experience with Total Chaos, I went back to TC. I'm sure you could sell those SPC and go to a TC which will give you the clearance you need to not run spacers.

I think you're good with you set up, just offering a second option to think about.

 

[Mineral]

I'm experiencing a similar issue as Brandon and would rather not have to run wheel spacers. I'm getting rub when at full lock turning left.

Tires are Cooper STT Pros 285/65R18 on stock wheels. Tires did not rub prior to lift.

SPC UCAs, OME 2702 w/ 10mm spacer (front), 2722 w/ 10mm packer (rear).

Looks like the passenger side might be rubbing tire against UCA. Driver's side also showed slight indication of possible rub, but I wiped it w/ my thumb prior to taking the photo.

It's going back into the shop to remove the front spacer and swap 2722s for 2721 w/ 15mm packer in the near future. Will have the shop re-assess and attempt to cure.

But, thought it would be helpful to post a second instance of the op's issue.

Photo of the driver's side:

Photo of the passenger side:

 

[Willy beamin]

Here's what I've learned using three different tires with the SPC uca's. the first set were 35x12.5x17 which measure 13.19 in width nitto trail grapplers and the clearance was close between the uca and the tire as in my end of uca was polished from tight turns when pulling in to my garage, other wise no contact, just super close. I then switched up to 315x70x17 don't know true width Cooper STT PROS which have a different profile, they swell out or pooch, and I was forced to run bora 1.25 centric spacers. Thought I could ditch the spacers if I went back to a more blocky nitto brand tire and opt'd for the ridge grappler 35x12.5x17 which measure 12.52 in width - no such luck still need the spacers for clearance. I did switch up to a different front spring after which could have raised my front enough and sucked in the IFS enough to be the difference. either run the spacers of your choice or purchase the TC uca's and report back so that we can all learn.
IFS pulls in as you lift so if you need to think about lowering it a bit. best of luck man

 

[Mineral]

As it is right now, the tires significantly rub when flipping around to back into the garage and whenever pulling a u-turn at a light.

Am hoping the fact that 315/70R17 vs 285/65R18 STT Pros are ~1.2" wider and ~1.8" taller will give more wiggle room w/ keeping the SPCs.

Next set of tires, I'd like to go up to 285/75R17 or 285/70R18s w/o having to change the UCAs. (Just have to watch the offset if I go 17s.)

The fact you ran 35x12.5x17 without spacers and just got a little polish on the SPCs gives me hope for both my as-is setup and the future to-be setup. Shoot, but the 17 RWs have a different offset than OEM 18s.

Am crossing fingers the shop will be able to re-adjust the SPCs and cure the rub.

Will report back.

 

[TonyP]

I ran 35x12.5x17 with no spacers and zero SPC UCA rubbing... it just rubbed everywhere else.

The 285/75r17 is the best tire in the history of tire size for the 200.

I wouldn't air down a ton otherwise you'll probably rub even more.

 

[Willy beamin]

I ran 35x12.5x17 with no spacers and zero SPC UCA rubbing... it just rubbed everywhere else.

The 285/75r17 is the best tire in the history of tire size for the 200.

I wouldn't air down a ton otherwise you'll probably rub even more.

which is insane because I believe the toyos you ran were even wider than the trail grapplers I was running with no spacers

35X12.50R17LT
125Q E BSW 34.8" 13.2" 8.5-11" 10" 21/32" E - 10 ply

 

[TonyP]

Yeah no idea why they didn't, but they didn't.

 

[OregonLC]

I get the wheel spacer theory. However, I'll say that I ran spacers on the 100 for years without any problem and I'm running 1-1/4" on the 200 sans issue. IMNSHO, the 100/200 need the spacers (or a different offset) for both clearance and aesthetics. If it were me, I'd space those things out an inch and be done with it. YMMV.

 

[Willy beamin]

"She falls down a well, eyes go crossed. She gets kicked by a mule, they go back to normal. I dunno."

 

[Mineral]

@Willy beamin - sometimes the best answer is the most obvious. I called SPC today, per your earlier suggestion, and talked to one of their Application Engineers. Wow, very helpful guy.

@Markuson - I asked if having the SPC logo on the silver piece indicated I had one of the older UCAs. He said the documentation shows the current batches are being produced with the SPC logo stamped. So, by the stamping (or lack of) we won't know if we get an old one that's been sitting on the shelf. That's a whole different concern anyhow; if one of the wheels collapses in like Michael J Fox's DeLorean, then we'll know.

According to SPC, there should be no rub tire to UCA if there wasn't any w/ stock UCAs. In fact, the SPC UCA was designed to run larger tires than the stock UCA would allow.

Key takeaway: Try to ensure the individual who installs your SPC UCA is also doing the alignment, it's apparently easy to get a rub and still be in the green for alignment.

Probable Fix

First, as Willy mentioned earlier, "Look at the invoice from who supplied your UCA's and make sure it reads #25465 (LC200) / not #25490 (Tundra)".

Second, assuming we have the #25465 installed, SPC's most likely fix is found in the applicable SPC FAQ Quetion #5. Basically, need to adjust the ball joint on the LCA to move the center of the wheel in/out.​

If the link breaks, or you are like me and are lazy with your clicks, Q5/A5 is reproduced below:

Q5: My tires are rubbing at the back of the wheel well can I use the adjustable arms to help fix this?

A5: Yes, you can! Use the lower arm adjustment cams to roll the lower ball joint forward for maximum caster. (Pull the forward bushing in and push the rearward bushing out.) Then adjust the upper ball joint to get the caster and camber alignment in spec. Doing this can move the wheel center forward by ½"- ¾" in most cases​

If that doesn't fix it, the guys at SPC said they are open to taking calls and troubleshooting. They were super friendly and helpful, in my experience.

The above is theory. I'll let you know if it solves my actual problem once I get to the shop.

 

[Mineral]

*For the astute, yes, the FAQ mentions rubbing at the back of the wheel well and my rub is on the UCA. SPC is pretty certain Q5 still applies.

 

[Mineral]

shoot, i hate posting after i've already posted. so, sorry for doing it twice.

The other thing SPC said that was interesting is the stamped SPC logo needn't always face the inside of the tire. The AE said the SPC logo will position according to the alignment needed. FWIW, my SPC logos are currently straight out facing the inside of my wheel on both sides. But, if yours isn't, SPC claims you could still be setup properly.

 

[TexAZ]

Q5: My tires are rubbing at the back of the wheel well can I use the adjustable arms to help fix this?

A5: Yes, you can! Use the lower arm adjustment cams to roll the lower ball joint forward for maximum caster. (Pull the forward bushing in and push the rearward bushing out.) Then adjust the upper ball joint to get the caster and camber alignment in spec. Doing this can move the wheel center forward by ½"- ¾" in most cases
If that doesn't fix it, the guys at SPC said they are open to taking calls and troubleshooting. They were super friendly and helpful, in my experience.

The above is theory. I'll let you know if it solves my actual problem once I get to the shop.

I mistakenly asked the alignment shop to "push the wheels all the way forward" when I went to 35s.
I managed 1 1/8" forward movement (using tundra arms). I also destroyed three CV axles.
I spoke with SPC about it, and they were very helpful and recommended NEVER going over 3/4".
lesson learned.

So I pulled the coilover out and started making adjustments and taking measurements:
with a 35" tire, steering wheel turned so that the tire is closest to the rear of the wheel well,
both adjustment cams set neutral 1/8" clearance
Front and rear pushed out (widest track width possible) clearance went up to .3"
Rear out, frond centered .75"
rear out, front in...1 1/8"

talk this over with the alignment shop, show them the drawings from SPC. they can roll the cams for the lower control arms to the widest point, and use the adjustability within the upper arms to set the alignment.

 

[Mineral]

Got the 200 back from the shop Saturday and near immediately loaded her up with the family and gear to spend the rest of an extended weekend in Puerto Penasco. (4 hours south of Phoenix.)

The SPC UCA were re-installed to SPC specs and the UCA rub is now gone! Woo-hoo! Hat tip to @TexAZ for the recommendation to save the CV axles and stay within 3/4".

A faint sway bar rub still persists. SPC troubleshot it with @murf mechanics over at Camelback Toyota and SPC came back with a solid validation of Camleback's know-how and professional capability. To Camelback's credit, the 285/65R18 STT Pros are fatter than most tires they see on 200s paired w/ SPCs and the rub was not visible when static - only when the vehicle was in motion at full lock did the UCA rub manifest. So, to no fault of the shop's and validated by SPC, the blocks for the STT Pros will rub the front sway bar post OME 2702/2721 lift w/ 15mm packers.

So, am going with spidertrax spacers later this week after all. Even though the sway bar rub is only at full lock and barely noticeable from within the cab - unlike the UCA rub - the love markings are there on the sway bar and my ocd side would like to remedy any and all rubs. Besides, kicking out the tires should further improve the curb appeal.

On a side note, I was leaning towards Slee's sway bar relo kit over wheel spacers, but interesting enough Slee recommended spacers over the sway bar relo kit. The sway bar relo kit causes new pressures on different areas than stock and has apparently bent some front end components over time. Slee says nothing has broken as a result, but that was enough for me to go the spacer route initially. Am hoping the spacers will have a secondary benefit to give enough clearance for 285/70R18s Ridge Grapplers after the STT Pros run their course.

 

[Mineral]

Spidertrax hub centric wheel spacers are now installed on all four corners. Plenty of room between tire and sway bar now.

There was a slight tire rub against the front mud flaps, so they're removed and awaiting minor surgery before they get put back on.

And there is rub at full lock (left and right) against the bottom of the plastic shroud in the front section of the front wheel well when going reverse. Am thinking of maybe applying the dremel against that plastic, too. When I have a few extra hours, will remove the plastic and see what's hiding on the other side.

Looks like I'll have to strategize a bit more if the 285/70R18s will be in the future. The 285/65R18 STT Pros look to be pushing this setup's limits.

 

[Supra88]

I think I've made the same mistake moving my wheels too far forward. The front of the LCA is all the way in and the rear is all the way out. My SPC is set at E or F. Am I going blow these CVs up? These are factory 200 LCAs not tundra.

On 285/70/17s I have 3" of space between the rear of the tire and mud flap.

 

[TexAZ]

It is very likely. Look at the angle of the axle. If it looks like it is going forward the inner joint will bind.

 

[Supra88]

Wonder if someone wouldn't mind measuring from the center of their hub to the front mud flap?

 

[afgman786]

Wonder if someone wouldn't mind measuring from the center of their hub to the front mud flap?

I'm 18 to 18.5" from center to front fender. I have removed the front mud flap
around 19" to rear