Spark plug removal

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Working on these now, haven't gotten to the ds yet but the ps closest to firewall was a beast to remove(original?). I am reinstalling the new but only get a couple of turns before it tightens up, can i spray something down inside to clean out these threads? Thanks, I searched a little but in the middle of the job!!
 
Refer to this thread - Replacing spark plugs. Has some useful info in there like use of non-lead based anti-seize for threads, etc.
 
add #6 to the list, hard to remove, difficult to start new.
 
Working on these now, haven't gotten to the ds yet but the ps closest to firewall was a beast to remove(original?). I am reinstalling the new but only get a couple of turns before it tightens up, can i spray something down inside to clean out these threads? Thanks, I searched a little but in the middle of the job!!

I changed the plugs in my 99 LX recently. The PO apparently had not had it done in many, many miles. 5 of the eight plugs were very difficult to remove and I was quite concerned I would gall the threads in the head.

I could back them off about 1/4 to 1/3 turn before they would feel as they were seizing up. Clearly a lot of friction and heat going on. Not to mention the carbon that collects on the threads...making it difficult. But I also found that trying to run the plug back in a bit...only made things worse.

In the end...I sprayed liberal amounts of PB blaster into the plug tube. Let it sit for an hour, went back and could get a full 1/2 turn (with much less effort). Eventually got about 1 full turn before the plug would get tight and I would wait again. It was slow going....but I got all of them out without damaging the head.

I'd recommend you take it SLOW. I chose to put just a trace amount of anti-seize on the new plugs and tightened them just beyond hand tight.

I don't want to be in the position of galling or pulling the threads in the head ever again.
 
Thanks everyone!
I changed the plugs in my 99 LX recently. The PO apparently had not had it done in many, many miles. 5 of the eight plugs were very difficult to remove and I was quite concerned I would gall the threads in the head.

I could back them off about 1/4 to 1/3 turn before they would feel as they were seizing up. Clearly a lot of friction and heat going on. Not to mention the carbon that collects on the threads...making it difficult. But I also found that trying to run the plug back in a bit...only made things worse.

In the end...I sprayed liberal amounts of PB blaster into the plug tube. Let it sit for an hour, went back and could get a full 1/2 turn (with much less effort). Eventually got about 1 full turn before the plug would get tight and I would wait again. It was slow going....but I got all of them out without damaging the head.

I'd recommend you take it SLOW. I chose to put just a trace amount of anti-seize on the new plugs and tightened them just beyond hand tight.

I don't want to be in the position of galling or pulling the threads in the head ever again.
In the end , I done the same. Took it slow, worked the difficult ones back and forth a little before tighting fully. 4 of the 8 were really difficult!
 
Is it better to do this with a hot engine? Anyone have experience doing it both ways?
 

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