Spare Tire Modifications (7 Viewers)

[Greg B]

What if you made a Y frame which pivoted from up near the front x member bracket, which dropped down, and you slide the tyre out, and slide back in, so the frame protected the spare sidewall to a degree,

I considered this originally when I was doing some initial designs of the skid plate. The issue with this is that if I ever have a blowout, the 295 tire won't fit in the space for the 255. Or, I'll have to make the frame low enough to accomodate the 295, which defeats the purpose of the 255 to begin with.

Or even mount the winch in the middle of the spare underneath, so you can wind it, so it lifts the spare in the frame, the same, but the winch fits inside the centre of the spare?

This is clever. I hadn't thought of this yet. Thanks for the ideas!

What do you think about this idea? It's a very simple design, but it will allow for any tire width to fit as high as possible. What if I took a piece of alluminum in the shape of a square. Lay the square on the ground. Now lay the tire on top of it. Now, take the four corners that stick out past the tire and bend them 90 degrees to make four tabs that come up the sides of the tire.

I could cut slots into each of the four tabs and then hook two straps to those four slots. This would make an x on top of the tire holding the plate to the tire. Then I could winch the tire in place and it would have a skid plate strapped to it protecting the sidewall from damage. Do you think it will work?

My only concern so far is if it got snagged on something it could do damage to the winch. But, the front edge would almost to the rear axle so I doubt anything would catch the front edge. Catching the back edge of the skid could occur while backing up though. If anyone has ideas on a different approach for this, please speak up.

Here's a crude drawing to illustrate my idea:

 

[Greg B]

Yes, it was 1.5". I've got a full size 285 under there and the bars are not what really limit the up travel. The crossmember that the original small bar in the front is in the way.

I totally spaced out on this one. I posted that in my very first post and then forgot all about it. That cross member stops the tire from going up any higher. Sorry wngrog, didn't mean to send you on a wild goose chase when I answered your question about going higher to 2.5-3 inches. I completely forgot about that cross member.

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

The issue with this is that if I ever have a blowout, the 295 tire won't fit in the space for the 255. Or, I'll have to make the frame low enough to accomodate the 295, which defeats the purpose of the 255 to begin with.

When the 295 is flat, it will fit in a tight spot without a problem, and compress in the holder further, so its not as much of a problem as you think.

And that leads me to thinking if your spare skinny on a 6" rim was flat, so you pumped it up when you put it on, it would take up even less space.

 

[LEXUSBEN]

When the 295 is flat, it will fit in a tight spot without a problem, and compress in the holder further, so its not as much of a problem as you think.

And that leads me to thinking if your spare skinny on a 6" rim was flat, so you pumped it up when you put it on, it would take up even less space.

thats actually what I did with the 285, flattened it so I could get the extra .5" and figured when I do need it I can pump it up then. (Almost needed it this weekend, blew the rf off of the bead, was able to reseat so no spare)

Ben

 

[Greg B]

When the 295 is flat, it will fit in a tight spot without a problem, and compress in the holder further, so its not as much of a problem as you think.

And that leads me to thinking if your spare skinny on a 6" rim was flat, so you pumped it up when you put it on, it would take up even less space.

Good point on the tire fitting if it is flat. That leads me to another question then, would the spare be less likely to be damaged if its flat all the time. I guess what I'm asking is if a tire is aired up and firm, is it easier to cut on a rock vs. a tire that is aired down and more pliable?

 

[SamoL]

I have once lost air from my spare (I dragged it over a rock). And when I needed it, I've pumped it up. But it was not OK, as there was some dirt between the rim and the tire. After that I had a tube in my spare. And I definitly recommend a tube in the spare if you plan to have it flat most of the time.

Regards
Samo

 

[wngrog]

Got a 235/85/16 mounted up today on a stock aluminum wheel.

I did the 1.5" lift kit on the winch and crossmember and I ditched the front and rear bars. Took them off completely.

It is REALLY tucked up there nicely. You cannot see it at all when you are standing next to the truck, you have to squat down to see the spare.

Nice tip. I like!

 

[hoser]

Nice, now, if I can only find a 35x9.5-16...

 

[Greg B]

I ditched the front and rear bars. Took them off completely.

It is REALLY tucked up there nicely. You cannot see it at all when you are standing next to the truck, you have to squat down to see the spare.

Cool, I'm going to take that rear bar out and see how much more clearance I can get. It looks like yours is letting the rear of the tire sit a bit higher than mine.

 

[wngrog]

Mine is also a 235. Isn't yours a 255?

 

[Greg B]

Mine is also a 235. Isn't yours a 255?

Yeah, mines a 255, but the angle of the tire looks different on yours. I think I may be able to get the rear part of the tire up a bit higher.

 

[DMX84]

angled spacers

I used some angled spacers that are used for bolting things to channel. I didn’t have to ream out the hole to allow this to install. Did I angle it enough?
Greg, how much space would you say was under the mount? Also, I used 8.8 grade bolts; do you guys think this is adequate?

I like the idea of removing the arms, whoever, do you think there is an issue with the wires? I wouldn’t want the tire resting against the wires, but sounds like a better idea otherwise (assuming there is no issue with raising/lowering the tire.
DMX

 

[wngrog]

I just moved the wires up above the tire. There is another harness up there on the tub and I ZIP tied the lower wires to them. Plenty of room in the wires for that.

 

[DMX84]

Cool. So, how much more do you estimate the gain to be without the metal bracket? The picture looked good.
What grade of bolts did you use? 8.8 or harder?
DMX

 

[DMX84]

I just took of the bracket and re-hung the tire. Depending on how snug I made the tire determines if I can get the last section of the tool out or not. You having this problem? I’m thinking just a 3/8 of in inch would do the trick. But I appears that no wires are in the way. I’ll look at it some more and see what I find.
DMX

 

[Greg B]

I used some angled spacers that are used for bolting things to channel. I didn’t have to ream out the hole to allow this to install. Did I angle it enough?
Greg, how much space would you say was under the mount? Also, I used 8.8 grade bolts; do you guys think this is adequate?

I like the idea of removing the arms, whoever, do you think there is an issue with the wires? I wouldn’t want the tire resting against the wires, but sounds like a better idea otherwise (assuming there is no issue with raising/lowering the tire.
DMX

DMX,
That is a much more eloquent method than I used. I like that a lot!

After looking at it this weekend, the tire is resting against the crossmember on the front and it's resting against the Slee rear bumper in the back so, there's no more room for it to go any higher. Plus, if I go any higher I won't be able to get the winch tool in and out. So, its staying the way it is.

 

[DMX84]

DMX,
That is a much more eloquent method than I used. I like that a lot!

After looking at it this weekend, the tire is resting against the crossmember on the front and it's resting against the Slee rear bumper in the back so, there's no more room for it to go any higher. Plus, if I go any higher I won't be able to get the winch tool in and out. So, its staying the way it is.

GregB, Thanks for the compliment, and thanks for the idea!
BTW,Did the spacing look to be about the same as yours with the washers?

If I can just get 3/8in (lower), then my tool can go in and out with ease. My tire is resting in the same spot as yours, but I have the stock bumper. This makes the jack handle a tight fit. Also, the metal framing on the top of the bumper is so flimsy it allows the tire to move. I’ll probably put back the rear arm with spacers. IMO you wouldn’t want the tire moving around rubbing all the time.

What grade of bolts did you use on the 1in spacers?

DMX

 

[Greg B]

GregB, Thanks for the compliment, and thanks for the idea!
BTW,Did the spacing look to be about the same as yours with the washers?

Yeah, the spacing looks about the same; yours is just much less ghetto than mine.

If I can just get 3/8in (lower), then my tool can go in and out with ease.

Dude, that's too much info!

My tire is resting in the same spot as yours, but I have the stock bumper. This makes the jack handle a tight fit.

I agree, the opening on the stock bumper was tight. The opening on the Slee is a little different (its more of a notch; no top to it) and works a little easier.

Also, the metal framing on the top of the bumper is so flimsy it allows the tire to move. I’ll probably put back the rear arm with spacers. IMO you wouldn’t want the tire moving around rubbing all the time.

definitely not a good idea. Rubbing's going to cause wear and possible failure of the tire.

What grade of bolts did you use on the 1in spacers?

I just used regular bolts from Home Depot. I didn't go with the grade 8. I believe the plate that the winch is bolted to would give before the bolts break, but I'm no engineer so take that for what it is. By the way, I used 1.5 inch spacers, not 1 inch.

 

[DMX84]

I meant to say 1.5.

No problem with that tool, it hangs low enough!

 

[DMX84]

I dropped the spare tire this pm to re-install the rear stabilizer bar. I inspected the “new” marks on the tire.
I found that the spare tire is hitting the sheet metal that makes up the upper part of the factory bumper. There’s a sheet metal reinforcement around the crank handle area that made contact with my tire, although it didn’t cut the tire in the two days it was hanging, I think over a period of time could do some damage to the spare.

After reinstalling the bar I raised the tire back in place and shook it to see how snug it was. There is still a small amount of movement in the tire.
After further inspection I noticed that there is about 1/4 in between the cross member & tire. On the original setup, the tire is allowed to come in contact and help keep the tire stabilized.

I think I’ll cut a new set on the lathe at 11/4 and re-mount, in hopes of getting a rock solid mount.
I’m not sure if this is a problem with all tire sizes. But probably should be looked into IMO.

Greg B, can you check to see if you are snug with the cross member? I’m curious to see if this is has something to do with tire size.
If there’s a space, and if you like, I’ll cut you a new set and send them. LMK
DMX